My Solution to the Subwoofer Problem - Chapter 2 (1 Viewer)

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So originally I thought I had found an improved setup for the subs by replacing them with Kicker 4” 2ohm 2 ways by removing the tweeter bridge and using the full range as the sub. See below if you want the original post

My Solution to the Subwoofer Problem

The problem is that after only a few months I blew the speakers. This I started my search again for replacement speakers. I read on the forum that Madisound had a good selection I searched and found these

SB Acoustics SB12PFC25-04, 4" reed cone mid-bass- 4 ohms

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These are 4-ohm speakers. They run about $25. They also offer a ceramic cone version for $65 but since I’ve become Formula 1 pit stop fast at removing the driver side rear panel I figured I try the cheaper ones first.

After yanking the old ones out I removed the two pieces of foam batting and then, taking an old pillow, moderately filled the entire sub enclosure with it.

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I then installed the new speakers and tested them. These speakers (and the Kickers and the factory speakers) have to generate a lot of motion to produce sound so I decided to experiment with the factory foam material I removed from the sub enclosure and rolled it up and closed the port of the enclosure by “screwing” the rolled foam cylinder into the port, thereby making the ported enclosure a sealed one.

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I tested it again and feel like the bass is much better. The bass is better but your expectations have to be tempered by what the unit is capable of. The sound is there but not the rumble of the bass.

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I have an Apline iLX-207 and it has a built in crossover. I turned the subwoofer option to “on” and set the cutoff at 40Hz with a 12 dB/octave drop.

Being that these are 4ohm speakers they are not to work as hard as a 2-ohm speaker and if they don’t blow them I am going to say it’s the final chapter in this book. The only other option would be to upgrade to the ceramic cone versions if these don’t last but the paper and reed blended cone seem to be stout enough to handle the demand.
 
Might be a little off topic but how do you like that alpine deck? Would you recommend?
 
I like a a lot. The only gripe o have is that I felt the features about it were a bit misleading regarding Apple Car Play. The phone has to be connected to the unit via USB for it to work. The description on crutchfield mentioned Bluetooth capability and CarPlay and didn’t specify CarPlay through Bluetooth specifically. The control panel is pretty tight to get back on after installation so I would recommend replacing the HVAC and other switch lights at the same time. I had to take the panel off again to do that project and was very worried I was going to break the top part that is above the head unit when I removed it. I also installed the MicroBypass Parking Brake Override Bypass for Alpine to remove the setup nanny when trying to use it while driving. It’s $15 through Amazon and worth it. Otherwise you have to be in park to make a lot of the options in the setup menu.
 
I look forward to hearing how these hold up. It would be really nice if the solution were this simple.
 
I’ll post a follow up in a few months after repeated testing with old school rap, Tool, Rage Against the Machine, Korn. Jack White, Audioslave and others...
 
I’ll post a follow up in a few months after repeated testing with old school rap, Tool, Rage Against the Machine, Korn. Jack White, Audioslave and others...
Harump.

How about The Oscar Peterson Trio? Or Buddy Rich? A good sample of good music also can be found on Hot Jazz Saturday Night, many with heavy bass lines. Here's a channel on soundcloud that has music from the late 1920's with modern sound quality. Lots of tuba and percussion. This hobby is all about recognizing excellence regardless of the date it was created. Appreciating older music in your old LC 80 or 100 is one of my greatest pleasures. I regularly torture passengers with my taste in music.
 
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Very curious to hear about your results. I took a similar approach and installed these Dayton Audio 4" (4ohm) midbass drivers in search of more bass, but I didn't fill that port on the box. Based on your experience with your previous speakers, did filling the port help improve the bass coming out of those little 4" drivers?

I wonder if anyone has tried fitting a 6x9 in that space—seems like that is the only way to get a decent level of bass out of such a small space.
 
I have thought about trying a 6x9 in there but I would like to buy an extra sub enclosure in case i mess up mine. There would be a much larger selection of speakers though. It would be a tight fit. That little hole in between the 4" is a post that is plasti-welded to another identical piece on the other side, I assume for internal bracing. I don't think it would affect the enclosure if it were cut out. I didn't try have the previous speakers "sealed" because they were blown.
 
I have thought about trying a 6x9 in there but I would like to buy an extra sub enclosure in case i mess up mine. There would be a much larger selection of speakers though. It would be a tight fit. That little hole in between the 4" is a post that is plasti-welded to another identical piece on the other side, I assume for internal bracing. I don't think it would affect the enclosure if it were cut out. I didn't try have the previous speakers "sealed" because they were blown.

Makes sense. I actually ended up having to hack my current enclosure up a little to install the Dayton Audio speakers since they're just slightly smaller than the OEM speakers. That said, I'm still not 100% happy with the sound over the stock, but plugging that port would be an easy place to start. The journey continues!
 

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