Front swaybar quick disconnects revisited and tested (2 Viewers)

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However, all of us on this board buy modifications to our trucks and each and every one of them has risks.

I cut a hole in my fender to install a snorkel and nuns died. Haunts me to this day.
 
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Just taking the "you should warn us of anything that could go wrong" to its ridiculous conclusion.... :rolleyes:




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To change the subject a little...

What about rear sway bar disconnects? Would they make a difference? Is anyone running them?
 
To change the subject a little...

What about rear sway bar disconnects? Would they make a difference? Is anyone running them?
On the front, this is possible because the bar's fixed points are on the frame, leaving the bar ends available to be pinned up out of the way (in other words, when disconnected the bar can't move). On the rear, the bar's fixed points are on the axle and the ends are attached to the frame. If you disconnected those ends, the bar would still be moving around with the axle.

PS - I run LandTank's uprated rear sway mounts and keep the bar in place under all conditions.
 
I am still trying to figure out how this is possible. I know from experience that the retaining hoop on the pin shown in Phil's middle "installed" photo above takes quite a bit of force to flip it open. The bar would have to be loose on the other side (which would require the cotter pin to fall out or be pulled out of the clevis pin) AND the bar would have to make significant contact with something that forces the bar sideways in order to unlatch the hoop.

I am not saying that scenario is impossible but I would have to believe there would be marks on the offending suspension parts. You stated "weak cotter pin" in an earlier comment. Are you saying the pin didn't feel like it engaged the clevis pin strongly enough? Or are you suggesting the part shipped was defective?

Steve, sorry I was not clear- it looked like both pins had popped and the bar had swung down. There was rattling that I misspoke for my already rattling exhaust pipe. I would not call it a defect but rather caution to use a pin that can be secured better.
 
Regardless, my point was to help the uninitiated and be up front in the cautionary statements. For example, saying “cycle your suspension” means something to those who have experience with the suspension. But to others, they may not understand that phrase. The tab issue mentioned above is an issue, and I did have them replaced- but after I experienced the mishap.

To be clear, the option of a sway bar disconnect is cool. It is the reason I bought the kit. It is the caveats that require explaining to minimize the issues highlighted in this thread.

Now, if dealing with newbies is too burdensome, then don’t explain anything and cross your fingers hoping no one has a serious mishap. I acknowledge it is difficult sometimes to explain something that is obvious to someone experienced. But this community is full of people with a wide range of experience.
 
Can you include a photo of how the pins were installed? How do you think they “popped?”

It’s no small thing that you heard the noise but didn’t pay attention to it because you thought it was something else broken on your truck.
 
Can you include a photo of how the pins were installed? How do you think they “popped?”

It’s no small thing that you heard the noise but didn’t pay attention to it because you thought it was something else broken on your truck.

maybe....


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For Fawks Sake, MOVE ON. You've bitched, you've moaned, you've raised tons of concern for being able to clip pins with and without thorough instructions. Go find another thread to s*** in.
 
Sorry Nate, but you guys decided to get nasty about this, and inappropriately, I might add. I’m sorry you do not understand the concern raised- it isn’t rocket science.

Next time, choose your words carefully before deciding to flame someone.
 
Can you include a photo of how the pins were installed? How do you think they “popped?”

It’s no small thing that you heard the noise but didn’t pay attention to it because you thought it was something else broken on your truck.

The pins were placed exactly as shown in Phil’s pictures. If you install this product, consider using something different for an extra layer of insurance.
 
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@Iceaxe was your front swaybar disconnected in the picture?

The picture above is the one way your driveline can contact your driveline and damage the fasteners with your swaybar disconnect if not properly cycled. PLease Note: Even if you cycle your suspension by lifting one corner at a time it is not enough. Lifting from the center as posted a few times in this thread (see below) it will demonstrate the maximum. It is uncommon to get both front tires off the ground during normal wheeling but it can happen. Lifting your 80 from the center you can be assured you have the clearance needed under even the worst conditions. If you do get both wheels in the air you can feel comfortable your swaybar disconnects will not be a problem when you land.:eek: I do not suggest, recommend, or endorse this type of driving.


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Washboard / rough roads. That picture was taken before the product was installed. I do tend to drive more quickly than average LC drivers, as I used to drive rally.
 
Washboard / rough roads. That picture was taken before the product was installed. I do tend to drive more quickly than average LC drivers, as I used to drive rally.

If you were a rally driver then Im surprised you questions the type of fasteners use. I was also involved in off racing for several years and these type of fasteners are used frequently where a LOT is at stake without issue. I will tell I have seen these fastener hold up to 1000's of BAJA much more than any washboard road you have driven in your 80 or rally car.

As for rally cars my first factory locked vehicle was an 1983 Audi quattro turbo coupe;)
 
A couple examples on what other manufacture use as fasteners to secure swaybar disconnects.

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sway-bar-disconnects_1188-base.jpg

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SwayBarDisco03.jpg

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qd4.jpg

This was known. And you may recall I asked you about the strength of the cotter pin and lateral forces. As far as the cycling is concerned, the left / right sides were checked, but not the center. I’m not clear if that would have influenced the two pins coming out.
 
If you were a rally driver then Im surprised you questions the type of fasteners use. I was also involved in off racing for several years and these type of fasteners are used frequently where a LOT is at stake without issue. I will tell I have seen these fastener hold up to 1000's of BAJA much more than any washboard road you have driven in your 80 or rally car.

As for rally cars my first factory locked vehicle was an 1983 Audi quattro turbo coupe;)

Yes, familiar with that as well and very familiar with that particular Quattro. That said, some drivers have a lot of experience screwing around with their suspension, some don’t.
 
Yes, familiar with that as well and very familiar with that particular Quattro. That said, some drivers have a lot of experience screwing around with their suspension, some don’t.
Dear hell rally on then. :deadhorse:
 
wow, Ive run these for two years and with proper usage I have had ZERO issues . I love them! Thanks LCP :cool:
 

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