Strange oil problem I have never seen..... (1 Viewer)

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I can only read the coolant temp with the Ultragauge (mine is not a ScanGauge). I don't think the Ultragauge can even read oil temps.

OK - that makes more sense b/c I was wondering where the datapoint was you were getting oil temp. Those coolant temps make more sense too esp since crankcase self-cleaning (when you even start to boil off any condensate inside the motor & oil) - is 212* & I hadn't seen you break 200*.

Really the self-clean thing isn't big to California guys, most places we see frost you can freak yourself out just looking under our design oilcap in Winter (you see milky goo, byproduct of the cold/condensate & our upside-down bucket oilcap).

I agree, dump oil & re-add verifying by dipstick where you land - switch habit over to 'full on dipstick' instead of 'add when the light hits'.

Aside from the soccer mom -mentality, IDK why we even have that light. We all know if you have original stem seals you will burn some oil, and 99% of these drip a few stray drops in the normal place we all park.
 
Wipe the oil from the metal ledge at the filler hole on the valve cover. Using a flash light look down through the hole into the valve cover and verify that the oil level is not actually that high. If the dipstick shows no oil at all then add oil until it's at the correct level. When adding oil do it slowly and check the dipstick as you go.
 
I will do as suggested by draining and refilling oil to bring it back to normalcy first, before troubleshooting the oil level sensor. Adding oil without checking the dipstick was no doubt a dumb move on my part. In hindsight, I can't believe I did that!!! But the fact that the oil is not showing up on the dipstick, is still a weird mystery and a matter of concern. Maybe it will be more clear as to why that is during the day.

That write-up was very informative, Rifleman. I went with conventional oil in the last oil change, and taking from what Farner suggests, if I change oil more frequently, like every 3000 miles, I could very well use conventional oil without negatively impacting engine reliability and longevity. It makes no sense to me to put synthetic that frequently in a 20 year old rig that does 0 to 60 in no hurry.
 
When you check your oil level, are you pulling the dipstick out, wiping it off, reinserting it until fully seated, then pulling it again to take the reading?
 
Just to gather this all up:

The best time to check engine oil is after running for a few minutes, switch off, wait five minutes and check.

The amount of expansion that occurs in engine oil when heated is negligible, unlike auto transmission oil, hence normally 'cold' and 'hot' level indicators on auto dipsticks.

Purely from experience, I have come across vehicles with the wrong dipstick, I am not suggesting this is the OP's case, but just letting you know it does happen.

In the UK we call the dashboard lights 'idiot lights' (no offense meant), NEVER rely on them. I would love a $ € £ for the amount of cars I see with low ACTUAL levels of oil, whilst the dashboard indicators had not illuminated.

If you have a leaky motor, put a steel tray under it, concrete garage floors will absorb liquids, thus you have a false impression of how bad the oil leak is.

Regards

Dave
 
As Travis 76 suggested, I will do a whole new oil change and see if it remedies whatever caused this anomaly.

^^^^^^ Yes, do that. Drain the pan, replace oil filter, add 8 qts of your favorite oil and check the DIPSTICK. And ONLY the dipstick from now on. There is NO other accurate way to determine your oil 'level'.

I don't know why you have residual oil at the filler (valve cover), perhaps excessive crankcase pressure (check your PCV valve), but in any case ignore that! You'd have to have many gallons of oil in your engine to fill it up enough to reach that level. Not to mention your engine would let you know it was trying to spin the crank through all that oil, like a boat prop through water. Your oil is not that high.

Anytime you see your oil light come on, do two things:

1. Check your oil pressure. (engine on)
2. Check your oil 'level'...via the DIPSTICK (engine off for at least 5 minutes).

IF both the oil pressure and oil level are within parameters... then ignore the warning light until you can determine what is causing the false reading. (most likely a stuck sensor or dirty/corroded connector).

The warning light is NOT there to take the place of the dipstick. It is there to tell you to CHECK the dipstick (also oil pressure).

Likewise, 'engine temperature' is not to be used as a diagnostic tool for oil level. Use the dipstick (level ground, engine off, doesn't matter if the oil is cold or hot). Get that oil changed and go on your trip confident all will be OK.
 
I’m gonna go back to a comment of mine I briefly mentioned...

The first oil change I did on my 80 I used an over capacity Bosch oil filter. Thing was aprx. 8” long. When a factory oil filter is around 4” long.
That being said I filled the engine up with the right amount of oil then ran it for a few minutes. Turned it off and checked the level again. It was super low, I don’t even think it registered on the dipstick. That filter held something like 2qts of oil.
Then when I checked again later after having refilled it, the level in the dipstick was near the top. It took me a few to figure out what was actually going on and messed with my ‘readings’.

I’m skeptical this is ur problem but a quick glance in the engine bay will eliminate the possibility.
 
The oil sensor in our trucks are notoriously bad. Mine goes on and off multiple times every time I drive the truck (going to pull it and clean it this oil change). I don’t mind it though because it has always been a habit coming from the marine industry to check the oil every fuel fill up or before start up on a longer drive. And just so you know a new sensor is something like $450....I can live with a light for that price.
 
The oil sensor in our trucks are notoriously bad. Mine goes on and off multiple times every time I drive the truck (going to pull it and clean it this oil change). I don’t mind it though because it has always been a habit coming from the marine industry to check the oil every fuel fill up or before start up on a longer drive. And just so you know a new sensor is something like $450....I can live with a light for that price.


Chances are you don't have to 'live with it'. The sensor is of very rugged construction. 'Most' issues are with the wiring or the connector. Simply cleaning the connector will solve the problem for most folks. The other possibility is that the sensor needs to be pulled and cleaned. It would be quite rare for one to actually fail.
 
I’m gonna go back to a comment of mine I briefly mentioned...

The first oil change I did on my 80 I used an over capacity Bosch oil filter. Thing was aprx. 8” long. When a factory oil filter is around 4” long.
That being said I filled the engine up with the right amount of oil then ran it for a few minutes. Turned it off and checked the level again. It was super low, I don’t even think it registered on the dipstick. That filter held something like 2qts of oil.
Then when I checked again later after having refilled it, the level in the dipstick was near the top. It took me a few to figure out what was actually going on and messed with my ‘readings’.

I’m skeptical this is ur problem but a quick glance in the engine bay will eliminate the possibility.


When using an extra capacity oil filter (with anti-drain back valve) simply add the estimated difference in oil capacity to your crankcase. I use a Motorcraft FL1A on my 80 series and add back 9 qts. of oil during an oil/filter change. Dipstick registers right at the top of the hash marks.

Don't worry if your oil level is a 'little' high or low (a quart either way), these engines will do fine with that.

We don't want to be too low obviously...and we certainly don't want to have to use a 'Turkey Baster' to remove any from the valve cover. ;)
 
With a readinging from the dipstick, I would go with that. If there is oil on the little shelf of the valve cover is not a big deal. If you look straight down the filler neck and see the oil level that's a problem. Definitely fill to the full level on the dipstick then look for leaks or oil consumption like smoke in the exhaust. Mine blows a little smoke at start up. 292000 miles.
 
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Interested in hearing how this resolves.


I feel like I got super lucky with my Lexus V8. I never have to check the level with the dipstick because I can hear it if it gets so much as half a quart low. It starts to tick noticeably on the driver’s side of the engine. I’ve confirmed this twice while running it with a quart or so less than full capacity. Tick tick tick tick tick. Then I bring it up to full and it shuts right up, smooth as butter.

You can’t do that on Land Cruisers because they all sound like typewriters :D
 
Interested in hearing how this resolves.


I feel like I got super lucky with my Lexus V8. I never have to check the level with the dipstick because I can hear it if it gets so much as half a quart low. It starts to tick noticeably on the driver’s side of the engine. I’ve confirmed this twice while running it with a quart or so less than full capacity. Tick tick tick tick tick. Then I bring it up to full and it shuts right up, smooth as butter.

You can’t do that on Land Cruisers because they all sound like typewriters :D

What's a Typewriter"?
 
Interested in hearing how this resolves.


I feel like I got super lucky with my Lexus V8. I never have to check the level with the dipstick because I can hear it if it gets so much as half a quart low. It starts to tick noticeably on the driver’s side of the engine. I’ve confirmed this twice while running it with a quart or so less than full capacity. Tick tick tick tick tick. Then I bring it up to full and it shuts right up, smooth as butter.

You can’t do that on Land Cruisers because they all sound like typewriters :D

What's a Typewriter"?

That’s just the timing belt getting ready to grenade. No worries!
 
Can someone please see how much oil it takes to fill a 1FZ all the way up to the top of the valve cover.... haha.

IIRC, I believe it is close to 14 qts. I actually had a former coworker that decided to change the oil (for the first time in his life, on any car) on his dad's 80 and did this. Filled it right up to the bottom of the fill hole ;). He was off in the corner of our warehouse and luckily he remarked to us, "this thing sure takes a lot of oil" before he started it up. He drained it all out and then refilled with 8 qts. No harm done, but we all got a good chuckle out of it.

It was his LC that got me hooked on the 80 series and, 4 years later, here I sit addicted to my LX and MUD :).
 
Edited: my reading comprehension skills are lacking today.
 

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