Rear axel leak???? Brakes? (1 Viewer)

[lechnito]

Yep. Or it's a perforated metal thing that you need to gouge out.

Later on after you reinstall the drum, you'll need to tighten up the adjuster using the reverse technique so the shoes engage the drum.

You may need a skinnier flathead or a better yet buy a brake shoe tool

 

[boerboel313]

Yep. Or it's a perforated metal thing that you need to gouge out.

Later on after you reinstall the drum, you'll need to tighten up the adjuster using the reverse technique so the shoes engage the drum.

You may need a skinnier flathead or a better yet buy a brake shoe tool

Giving up for today. It's still On there. It giggles a few degrees either direction. I'll look for the tool Tomorrow.

 

[boerboel313]

So, purchased the gear release fork/pry bar and revisited the rectangular hole on the back side of the drum.
With a light I could see the teeth of the gears. Prior to prying the gear up or down there was a few degrees of movement.
I used brake tool and turned the gear up as far as it would go. There is now no movement at all in the drum.?????
So I rotated the gear down as far as it woukd go.
Still no movement.?????
Is there some kind of sweet point in the middle somewhere? Or didn't I rotate the gear far enough up or down.

I even put a torch to the drum and gave it some wackos with a 4# hand sledge. I can go bigger but I wanted to hear back from you all first.

Lol. Very frustrating for such and easy job. Replaced shoes about 8 years ago.

 

[boerboel313]

Have a great thanks giving all, I'll be here wrenching.

 

[Freewheel]

There's no middle "sweet spot"- One way expands the shoes and the other contracts them. Are you sure you're pressing the release tab to let the adjuster wheel turn? - it's possible to force the adjuster wheel without having the tab depressed, but not very far. You should be able to expand the shoes until the entire wheel will no longer turn on the axle- that should take a few adjuster wheel turns to get there. Then go in the other direction until the wheel turns easily on the axle and the drum should pull off. Also, use the threaded bolt holes- If the drum is frozen on, a couple turns on bolts in the bolt holes will pop it right off.

 

[boerboel313]

There's no middle "sweet spot"- One way expands the shoes and the other contracts them. Are you sure you're pressing the release tab to let the adjuster wheel turn? - it's possible to force the adjuster wheel without having the tab depressed, but not very far. You should be able to expand the shoes until the entire wheel will no longer turn on the axle- that should take a few adjuster wheel turns to get there. Then go in the other direction until the wheel turns easily on the axle and the drum should pull off. Also, use the threaded bolt holes- If the drum is frozen on, a couple turns on bolts in the bolt holes will pop it right off.

is the release tab located in the same hole?
The only thing I see in the hole is the gear and a flat head screw.

 

[Godwin]

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

Go to the link, download the 1984 Body and Chassis manual. The diagram on how the rear brake components are laid out should help a lot as well as how the adjuster operates.

 

[Spike Strip]

How ya comin' with this ?

 

[cruiserpilot]

is the release tab located in the same hole?
The only thing I see in the hole is the gear and a flat head screw.

Yes, its under tension to allow the adjuster wheel to turn only in one direction.
Kind of pick the lock idea, hold the tension flat piece up with a small flat screwdriver and
then turn the adjuster. Usually I think it's down and away is the direction to loosen the adjuster.
There might be a lip on the inside of the drum as the shoes wear a 2" wide strip into the drum.
Sometimes the shoes bond to the steel. Have you been driving it? Has it been sitting?
Do you have a torch? Sometimes real heat is needed to break the 'bond' of the shoe to the steel drum.
Don't be afraid to spray a s***load of Moovit/or whatever lubricant you have on the adjuster to free it
up if it's rusted too. It's all coming apart in the end.
You can buy a spring and hardware kit to replace all the rusted bits when you get new shoes.
Mic the drum, probably within tolerance for simple lathe turning
Good luck

 

[John McVicker]

Go re-read post # 17. Get the proper sized bolt...(I also remember it to be 8x1.25) and use it in the threaded hole to help push the drum off. This is why the threaded hole is there.

Then re-read post 25. I totally understand your frustration, but follow these 2 post and you will get it off.

Not fun but doable.

John

 

[boerboel313]

Thank you guys. I'll revisit the posts as recommended.
I took a break from the wrenching the last couple of days.
As luck woukd have it I did have two M8x1. 25 and tried that the other day. I got them in a several turns but then it was very difficult to turn them at all, so I backed them out in fear I'd snap them off if I'd gone any further..
Ill get back to it this afternoon upon my return.
Sometimes it better to walk away and revisit a difficult situation after a day or two.

I'll keep you all posted. One thing that helps me relax is the new Ducati Maltistrada Enduro.

Thanks again and enjoy the weekend.