Recent content by FoYoChe

I looked for a pump mount for quite a while, that didn't bolt to the exhaust somehow ( somebody explain to me why chevy thought it was a good idea to mount accessories to the exhaust someday) and I ended up buying a mount from alan grove, copied it and sent it back, it bolts to the set of...

Because gear pumps are almost as bad as piston pumps for pulling a vacuum whereas diaghphram pumps aren't hurt by running dry and pull a larger vacuum per stroke.

I had my stock 78 radiator rebuilt, made a tight fitting shroud and mechanical flex fan, changed the water pump and thermostat, then unhooked my temperature guage and stopped worrying. if it pushes all the water out, it was too hot, but so far it doesn't. I don't like the flex fan though, it's...

you might want to consider a spacer ring, I've set up a few people with the rings, and I always recommend that you install some sort of spacer for the ID of the lock ring, otherwise the ring can twist down, and load the bolts improperly, I've talked to guys that didn't run them, they thought it...

My cousin runs that fuel injection set up on his toyota cabbed thing, he really likes it and has run it on several variations of motors so far. it's a pretty nice set up as it has the tuning controller that you can adjust on the fly, but it's still a speed density system, wiring it up wasn't...

switch to a real orbitrol valve, yes I know orbitrol is a eaton specific name, you should check to see if you can build pressure on the cylinder lines before the end of the stroke is reached, if not then it probably isn't ported correctly. after reading the tech write up, I still don't believe...

wouldn't the inline 6 weigh less because of the lack of balance shafts, the I-5 has a couple as far as I know, I-6 are inherently balanced down to 3rd order vibrations whereas most others suck, it's also the reason for v-12's balanced to 6th order I think it was.

They told us that a good way to powdercoat tough aluminum parts is to bring them to a higher temperature when cleaning them, that way when you coat them at the lower temperature, you shouldn't have any volatiles that will outgas at the lower temperature left. it's supposed to help a lot, but not...

hot dip galvanizing would warp your body pretty badly, it would sag when they took it out of the tank, I've had 1/2" plate bent because they dropped it a foot when they took it out, last time I had galvanizing quoted it was $.42 a lb, that was at pacific states galvanizing in tualitin OR, also...

and don't ever pull the studs in with an impact wrench, especially used ones. pull the hub or axle and do it right. there's nothing fun about going down the freeway on three wheels

You're probably right, the belt would probably flop and vibrate if it didn't have that, it's not the ease of replacing that bothers me, it's the cost.

could you just throw the extra idler away, I hate those stupid things, cheap sealed bearings go bad in 50000 miles. at least the tensioner one can be replaced separately. but the one on the left seems to be there to make something else fit.

there's probably not enough of a load to cause problems with an arm that long, its's just my engineering geek coming out.

It might be over thinking it, but if you moved the tabs on the front mount of your traction bar to the bottom of the crossmember rather than hanging out the back, it would be less of a shear and more of a tension load, shears are usually bad. and since the mount cant support any load but in line...