Hornd

My 2004 Corolla has 330K miles and Original Fluid as far as I know. Just never Changed it. Front Passenger Caliper Went at about 300K, so read into it what you want. I buy and use whatever they have at Napa or Autozone.

Get a $20 Astro Sprayer on Amazon and Spray the Used Tranny Oil inside the Frame Rails. Then let it drip on Street before driving it down a Dusty Road. Greasy Metal Never Rusts.

Same Concept but 1 Way Valve Independent instead of Integrated which means it works on every Vehicle - Only buy Once. Likely Cheaper too.

I tagged along with my wife on my day off and stumbled on this baby. 220H in decent shape and full of fuel. It was $8 out the door with my almost senior discount.

Bumper Cover Brkts were Completely Rusted off Bumper Tube - After & Before Shown 2 Brackets Present - Left Hand & Right Hand. $23 Each For Replacement OEM Brkt on Ebay. Used Kroil, Heat and Irwin Bolt Extractor to Carefully Remove the Bolts.

This looks much better. We repaired an almost non-existent Tacoma frame and brought it back from the land of the beyond for a customer.

The Rears are Solid Axle but Displacement still Up and Down. He did Video Exactly on this Topic - Data Included.

Start here:

What alloy do you use for rod? Are the header pipes 409 SS or something else? How to they hold up with regards to cracking after you weld them?

Buy and put the New Tees in the Glovebox with a Pair of Slip-joint Pliers; Run till Failure. The Costco Battery in my Corolla is from 2016 (9 years) but I always Roll with a Noco, so we about to Find out. I've Done a Few FMEAs in my Life.

I’ll admit that I keep a label maker in the garage and stick individual date/mileage labels on filters, fill plugs, and any critical consumables. Love me a good label 😂

Working my way through stuff to bring this back to reliability and improve functionality. It has dual batteries but there is a parasitic electrical leak somewhere. Instead of trying to isolate the leak I'm going back to stock electrical system...

@Malleus is not referring the amount of grease inside the knuckle housing, He's referring to the amount of grease in the hub between the inner and outer bearings. And, quite frankly, that would have very little effect on the rotating resistance...

If you can't rotate the assembled rotating hub by hand, then it has not been assembled correctly and something is binding. Regardless of the inner adjusting nut torque, you should be able to rotate the assembly by hand.

I've had the OEM JDM fan on my rig for quite a while now, but after upgrading to a modded blue fan clutch, I've found it to be unnecessary even on the hottest of Florida's Summer days In fact the blue FC will move so much air that it will suck...

That’s incorrect. Most 7x series parts are available through normal US supply chain with HS-7 documentation.

Like an underwater ship wreck.

You did buy a 4Runner - with a Land Cruiser badge on it. 😉

Did you ever sell that last ‘80 fj40? Im still sitting on the ‘79 I bought from you a couple years ago. I’ve been distracted by other cruiser’s but hope to get it up and driving this winter.

Definitely not a good time for what can be viewed as an inessential classic.

The boomers are getting too old to wrench. The other generations for the most part aren't into restorations or maintaining them. Just my guess.

Do this Takes 3 Mins and made a Huge Difference in Mine. I sprayed the Neutral Safety Switch and Shift Linkage with Aero Kroil.

@Hornd I burned through your thread. We're "wheel buddies." My po had those same wheels installed. I can't believe the crap you're going through regarding rust. Great stuff man. I've been looking at head unit options. I think I'm going to...

This Guy in Mid Ohio does nice Work! Next will Wire Brush Everything & Coat with Fluid Film

Rear Bumper cover was Removed. As Suspected Rust was Worse than Visible. Will Post the After Glamour Pics.