New migration from 80 to GX470

[MrMikeyG]

I picked up a 2003 GX470. I've gotten distracted reading though a couple of build threads.
Some quick notes.
mechanical history seemed decent.
190k on the odometer
it's on 4runner rims and fairly new Dueller HT tires. I like the wheels, the tires are not what I would have bought, but they do save me from an approximately $1200 week one purchase.
It is the silver color (I haven't looked up the paint name/codes yet)
It has quite a few dings and dents which I don't mind since it will see forest roads and such.
The hood and grill are a bit messed up and the seller included a used good shape grill.
***** This had me thinking about initial form over function mods (new hood in flat black and a blacked out or 3rd party "Lexus" grill)*** I think I can manage to steer clear of the raptor style grill lights.
The side mirrors are pretty beat up and look like someone used a brush to paint them. I'll likely troll ebay for a set of mirrors
3rd row seats will be removed later today.

My first questions;

Is there a decent "filler" of some type for the headliner dvd screen? Mine is still there, but no kiddos and I haven't tried the thing out yet. I'm guessing it may not work since the inner cover will not latch.
I seem to have the Mark Levinson system with Nav. I'm ok with this except that I cannot make/receive calls and I think the cd changer is kaput.

The pile of keys I got is also an interesting problem. 2 true Lexus keys. 2 aftermarket non-cut keys and the programmer that plugs into the obd2 port. Nothing in the pile is properly paired at this point so I will tinker with what I have.

The seller also included a steering wheel in better condition that the original. How many is a steering wheel swap? The airbag has me apprehensive.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to something that has a nice and quiet highway feel and can still off-road a bit.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Has anyone done a recent dvd update to the factory nav system? It seems like almost everyone hates the screen, but I need to live with things for a bit while I noodle on nav to non-nav or some other madness. It looks like I can get a new dvd for $30 -$150 depending upon new/used and seller.

I was under the impression that the GX had the same AHC system as an LX. Boy was I wrong. ha ha

 

[Rednexus]

Steering wheel swap is 20 minutes. Super, super easy job. It just takes a Torx bit to pull the airbag and a 19 mm socket to remove the retaining nut. Just make sure to get the wheels straight ahead, then set the clock spring right in the middle of it's travel (it has 5 turns left to right), and then install the new wheel, or otherwise you'll break it the fist time the wheel goes to full lock.

 

[zillymc]

Has anyone done a recent dvd update to the factory nav system? It seems like almost everyone hates the screen, but I need to live with things for a bit while I noodle on nav to non-nav or some other madness. It looks like I can get a new dvd for $30 -$150 depending upon new/used and seller.

I was under the impression that the GX had the same AHC system as an LX. Boy was I wrong. ha ha

Picked up my 2004 GX recently and did the Grom Vline V2 install and really like it. Yeah that screen kinda sucks but I actually like how it feels very OEM and year appropriate over one of those big Tesla screens you can put in

 

[MrMikeyG]

At this point, the Grom vline route seems to be a lot cheaper than trying to do an OEM non-nav conversion with an aftermarket HU. Another person posted a link to something that's way cheaper and plugs into the system in place of the cassete player. (I think it uses that connector on the harness, cassette player remains in dash, but no longer functions) I think. I need to find that thread again. The person seemed happy with sound quality and function.

Does anyone care to weigh in on the life expectancy of the OEM electronically damped shocks? The GX suspension is a bit simpler overall than I thought it was, but it's looking like OEM rear shocks and front struts will cost around $1k if I need them. $1k is a good percentage of most "normal" lift kits for these trucks.
I'm really trying to clamp down on immediate cosmetic/fun things vs maintenance/function so I'm really just making notes for a lot of things right now.

I am curious about counterfeit parts; I've seen a couple of OEM timing belt water pump kits on ebay now (older part numbers) for half of what things add up to from one of the southeast online part vendors. I guess the seller's feedback is my guide.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Oem factory service manual arrived. 4 volumes, good lord. I thought it was only 2. $180

Oem blank key with transmitter hasn't arrived yet. $134

Does anyone know if the later year in-dash cd changer (single slot) will work in place of the older changer with the disc cassette? I can't get pictures of the connections side by side to visually compare. I think my changer is dead. I do get the proper cd controls though the audio menu button, but "no-disc" and the cassette will not eject. Call me a weirdo, but I like physical media still.

Are people really replacing starters as a "while I was in there" on the 2UZ? That seems excessive, but then again

 

[Hornd]

I bought a Rusty 2005 GX with 4 Runner Rims and Factory Bridgestone Tires.

Bought a 5th New Rim and Tire on Ebay so all match.

Replaced All Fluids and Did a Build Thread - 2005 GX Build Thread

I too like Physical Media ie CD Mix Tapes, but these have a Common Problem with the Amp under Drivers Seat.
On Ebay you can send them away for Rework for ~$300.

The Grom is your Option if you want Navigation or Duplication of Phone Screen.

The Factory Key Cases Crack. The Case is Cheap to Replace but there are Upgrade Options from Yodateq but Pricey ~$100+

 

[MrMikeyG]

@Hornd I burned through your thread. We're "wheel buddies." My po had those same wheels installed. I can't believe the crap you're going through regarding rust. Great stuff man.

I've been looking at head unit options. I think I'm going to ditch in-dash gps as an option. It adds a ton to the cost, and a proper carplay/android unit can pull that role from the phone. Plus, I can bring out a tablet with offline maps should I really need it.
I'm starting to think there's no huge difference in the major brands anymore regarding basic function. It's hard to sift through all of the various suer reports regarding start up speeds and stuff like that. Pre-outs and basic connectivity are easy to sort.
I'm sitting on an old Kenwood "weblink" unit that I hated, but maybe a firmware update would help? It's only got like 6 months install time on it.

The telescoping function on my steering column has developed a pretty awful noise. I need to research that now.

 

[Hornd]

Do this Takes 3 Mins and made a Huge Difference in Mine.
I sprayed the Neutral Safety Switch and Shift Linkage with Aero Kroil.

 

[MrMikeyG]

I'm hip deep into a non-nav conversion and install of a Kenwood double-din unit. I completely forgot to order some usb cables, and I think I have 2 already installed microphones to choose from. I need to double check the fsm for one of them.
I'm trying to figure out where to run the gps antenna (little squarish puck). I think double sided tape up inside the dome light/sunroof control area would be good.
Has anyone run wires across the headliner and down the A-pillars? I did that in my 80.
What type of antenna uses 5 ohm coax? CB? It was dead ended near the center console but runs up into the headliner somewhere. I hate loose crap like that.

How different are the frames between an early 120 and a 150? There's a Prado 150 ARB front for sale locally.

 

[MrMikeyG]

I thought I was on the home stretch. Non-nav controls tested fine, ridiculous stereo harness made up and bundled/taped, Gps antenna and microphone fished across the headliner and secured, grounds secured. main harness taped and secured, ( last needed parts were usb extension cables and a usb outlet to swap into the cig lighter)
Given that status I started putting things back together...
Mother___##!!__&^%^%!!
Non-nav controls don't fit now as the harness is too short. I guess I bundled stuff togther too well. I think I'll just ditch the glove box and strap a JBL party box there and call it a day.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Success!!!! Well, 97% anyway. My Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control harness was unsuccessful, and I broke half of my clips off of the main side garnish/trims.

I've got some FJ/4R (I always thought they were FJ only) wheels on deck. Still trying to decide on tires. I was a bit disappointed to see China stamped into the back of them, but what can one do?
I had a brief concern over lug stud size (M12 or M14), but I think it's 5th gen 4runner and possibly Gx460 that have the M14 studs right? Added to that, would anyone comment on how tight the shank of the lug nut should be within the hole in the wheel? Should they wiggle a lot? My 80 was on '93-94 Acorn lugs/wheels.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Slight backtrack. Left speakers appear to not be working minus left tweeter and speaker in rear door/hatch. Also (oddly) I can't operate anything except the driver's window from the drivers multi switch anymore. I hate coincidental faults.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Complete trouble shooting fail today.
Prior to non-nav conversion; Audio sounded good, but cd player didn't work, and no bluetooth/carplay, all windows worked.
After non-nav conversion;
No sound through drivers door woofer (lowest/biggest driver), no sound through left rear woofer (tweeter seems to work), nothing at all at 2 small speakers in the rear door. I get decent sound from entire passenger front door and I think rear door.
Drivers window is the only window that works from the drivers combo switch.

All related fuses look fine. I pulled the dash apart again and double checked my connections. I found one that I didn't like, fixed that and got no solutions to any of the above issues.

How would simply doing this work fry the ML amp and fry most of the combo switch? I find it unlikely but that's my luck I guess.

Buyer's remorse has now firmly set in.

 

[Hornd]

Unsure why Audio would be connected to the Window Switch.

Side note: When disconnecting Battery did you Reset the Sunroof and Windows by Holding the Switch?

 

[MrMikeyG]

I came inside after putting tools away, cooled off for 5 min, and did a search for "odd window bahavior" or something. Long story short, I now know about "programming" the windows. had I ignored the issue completely last night, your link would have been a great help so thanks.
I did confirm that my ML amp is not turning on. Does anyone recall if the pin out diagram for the 2 amp connectors is available somewhere? My best guess at power in (larger black and red wires in what I will call harness A) yielded .045 volts on the voltmeter while head unit was powered on. I have no idea if these were the correct wires to test.
I'd love to hear from someone that has done a "normal" head unit and the 2 most common metra/axxess harnesses and if they tapped another wire for amp turn on or left it to the blue/yellow and blue/white of the metra and head unit harness (Kenwood) respectively. tyto-01 metra harness

 

[MrMikeyG]

let this be another lesson in waiting for the "right" vehicle. I jumped on one of the cheaper (in my area) sub 200k GX's I could find.
I'm having a pretty major surgery in Feb and never got to the timing belt/water pump task I had meant to while it was warm out. (I do not have indoor work space)
I have it at a shop right now. It has had a timing service done once which is good at first glance, but the shop found some odd stuff; missing proper bolts/nuts here and there, Some odd goop used instead of fipg, one of the long bolts was missing, and the previous worker forced the longer alternator bolt to pull double duty. They also forced a too long bolt literally through the radiator which was semi-ok until it came time to do the work correctly which then left a bolt hole through the radiators tank. I was not about to tread down the path of "stop-leak" type stuff, so enter a new radiator added to the tally.
I'm looking at a $3k bill for all of this which if you're keeping track means I probably should have bought a rig with better maintenance records for 10-12k in the first place. Oh well.
I also visited a local audio shop trying to find out what the shop rate for some diagnostics would be regarding my Mark Levinson amp being dead vs the cost of trying to get mine fixed or buying a different one. They ended up quoting me a $5k system. Mosconi amp, Focal flax series 3-way speakers, blah blah. I ordered a different ML amp off of ebay for $250 and we shall see what that does.

I will likely be throwing a full timing belt kit into the classifieds here this weekend. All OEM parts assembled in ones and twos over a couple of months.

 

[Rednexus]

I'd say these rigs are, in general, not cost effective to own unless you are able to DIY most/all of the maintenance/repairs. Even the newest GX470 is 17 years old at this point, so they are going to need something. Many repair shows now are very expensive, do poor quality work, or both. Looks like yours had a former DIYer work on it who didn't know what they were doing. I agree a one with a good documented dealer service history would be preferrable, if you can find one. My rig had 3 owners and intermittent maintenance history, but had the T-belt done by a Toyota dealer the year before I got it.

Regarding the ML - mine sounds awesome after replacing the two front 6x9s with PowerBass units, re-foaming the rear sub, and replacing one tweeter. And I mean awesome, the system rocks and sounds great with any kind of music, despite 8 of the 11 speakers being 19 years old (and those old speakers still look new). Fixing it cost <$250 and <1 day of work. A number of places offer ML amp rebuild/repair service for around $300-400. I ran the number for my rig and realized that it was much, much cheaper to fix the ML system piecemeal as/if things break as opposed to replace it with a totally new system. $5K for a audio shop to fully replace everything honestly doe snot seem unreasonable.