I understand, but maximum torque of an electric motor is at 0 RPM. HP is optimized at the name plate RPM, not torque. Torque to get moving, HP to keep moving at ideal RPM.
Final drive can be modified at the transfer case in high range too.
It's takes a little skill to cut body, seperate, and glue back together and then have paint it if your budget allows it. Trust me it's a lot skill to do it right. You can farm it out that part or do it yourself. The rest is just labor. A lot of...
I always hated the lock outs that prevent you from starting in gear - there has been times that is handy.
Just like the new leak proof gas cans that make spill more than the old ones ever did.
The larger one looks like the engine splash shield and the smaller one looks like a brake line shield. I haven’t had either on my Cruiser in 30 years so others may need to confirm.
I think those switches detect a difference in pressure - some sort of small air bubble in one of the chambers on the piston my cause enough pressure difference to trigger the light. But that's why there are manuals.
Did you bench bleed the master?
Webers don't need a return line. You may have to run a regulator though as they are finicky about pressure. When they are dialed in, they are great but they take some time and each vehicle is different. That's my experience with them, anyway.
Every few years I have to spray the down cable on my manual choke with WD-40 to it move freely. Mine is a wound wire with straight solid wire core. For plastic housing stuff a cable luber is the tool of choice. Flush the housing with like...
For weatherstrip--chk out Metro Moulded parts(haven't looked at city racer or Cruiser outfit) so I don't know, but this co. has some effective bulbiforme strip that sealed my doors
Welcome aboard. You have a very nice and solid starting point. It's great that it stays in the family. Love the stripes, but hate the plow attachment. I'd retire that. The 40 should clean up nicely. It looks very complete. Get it running...
measured my new OEM belt--16.8 mm at widest, 11.50 deep--think a 15 mm will squeal like a pig as soon as the fluid coupling gets engaged(around 2900 rpm)
Sounds like the timing has been rendered moot at this point, correct?, and the consensus has moved to a fuel/vac issue? here's a one page guide for vac issues-mostly for running -
Um, no please. As a general rule, you fix your brakes before you make it drive.
You would rather be stuck in your garage wishing you could go than going down the road wishing you could stop.
Yes a leaking booster is a giant vac leak, can be intermittent like on a rough road - vac leaks affect idle. A bad leaking booster will cause #5 cylinder to run lean and will burn it up in short order. You will need more leg pressure for the...
I'm not familiar with the earlier Toyota vacuum retard distributors, but there is a common problem that can develop with age on the centrifugal advance mechanism, that I noticed on my 79 OEM small cap distributor and the big cap OEM that I...
I think its important to rule things out one at a time. I don't know enough to answer your questions re: pertronix, but the vacuum test will tell you a ton of info just by itself. If you are planning on going that route anyway because you don't...