sggoat

I think that a good de-smog keeps the charcoal canister. Charcoal canister does not need to vent to the carb, mine vents to atmosphere.

Webers don't need a return line. You may have to run a regulator though as they are finicky about pressure. When they are dialed in, they are great but they take some time and each vehicle is different. That's my experience with them, anyway.

Every few years I have to spray the down cable on my manual choke with WD-40 to it move freely. Mine is a wound wire with straight solid wire core. For plastic housing stuff a cable luber is the tool of choice. Flush the housing with like...

They look like the sockets for an anti sway bars on a trailer hitch

For weatherstrip--chk out Metro Moulded parts(haven't looked at city racer or Cruiser outfit) so I don't know, but this co. has some effective bulbiforme strip that sealed my doors

Welcome aboard. You have a very nice and solid starting point. It's great that it stays in the family. Love the stripes, but hate the plow attachment. I'd retire that. The 40 should clean up nicely. It looks very complete. Get it running...

measured my new OEM belt--16.8 mm at widest, 11.50 deep--think a 15 mm will squeal like a pig as soon as the fluid coupling gets engaged(around 2900 rpm)

Sounds like the timing has been rendered moot at this point, correct?, and the consensus has moved to a fuel/vac issue? here's a one page guide for vac issues-mostly for running -

Um, no please. As a general rule, you fix your brakes before you make it drive. You would rather be stuck in your garage wishing you could go than going down the road wishing you could stop.

Yes a leaking booster is a giant vac leak, can be intermittent like on a rough road - vac leaks affect idle. A bad leaking booster will cause #5 cylinder to run lean and will burn it up in short order. You will need more leg pressure for the...

I'm not familiar with the earlier Toyota vacuum retard distributors, but there is a common problem that can develop with age on the centrifugal advance mechanism, that I noticed on my 79 OEM small cap distributor and the big cap OEM that I...

I think its important to rule things out one at a time. I don't know enough to answer your questions re: pertronix, but the vacuum test will tell you a ton of info just by itself. If you are planning on going that route anyway because you don't...

The first thing that happened was you were out on a 'washboardy" road when the issue started--is the dizzy tight?--almost like it's moving around

here's a few

If it ever stops raining, I'll get the pics

Looks like the horn relay.

100% cad.....this had been sorted out decades ago.

14 gauge ought to work nicely. Use good wire with insulation that isn't soy base for rodent chow. Water proof connectors would be a good plan too. Wiring questions are best answered on the correct wiring diagram for your rig. I think I have...

Very nice!! what wood species did you use for the dash/console?

first-what yr is the truck?--then get a factory wire diagram for that year--the pics show doors that are not stock, no plate mounting holes, so where ever it was originally, it's not there now(unless the framework is covering the view). The...

I agree, points suck. All I'm suggesting is get it running on points so that you know that it does in fact run. Baseline everything get it idling nicely, and then reinstall whatever ignition system you like, knowing that everything else has been...

You don't need a factory coil necessarily. A coil is a coil, and while OE coils are likely to last longer, any aftermarket coil should get you up and running. You won't burn anything up by chosing the wrong coil -- aside from the coil itself...

From the looks of it your missing the heat shield with spacer piece under the carb. then you will get your clearance issue resolved. Looks like you are using an early style intake manifold. Im sure someone will chime in if I am wrong. have you...

The lock assy does have a locking slide clip to hold it flush to the outer door on the inside- The handle you have should be easy to run a 5/6 mm die to cut new threads, then just get a smaller nut-

got a free fiberglass top-but in Fla. It's rough,but serviceable with some roof rack hole plugs and paint--pics if interested, maybe mudship?