sggoat's latest activity

The first thing that happened was you were out on a 'washboardy" road when the issue started--is the dizzy tight?--almost like it's moving around

here's a few

If it ever stops raining, I'll get the pics

100% cad.....this had been sorted out decades ago.

14 gauge ought to work nicely. Use good wire with insulation that isn't soy base for rodent chow. Water proof connectors would be a good plan too. Wiring questions are best answered on the correct wiring diagram for your rig. I think I have...

Very nice!! what wood species did you use for the dash/console?

first-what yr is the truck?--then get a factory wire diagram for that year--the pics show doors that are not stock, no plate mounting holes, so where ever it was originally, it's not there now(unless the framework is covering the view). The...

I agree, points suck. All I'm suggesting is get it running on points so that you know that it does in fact run. Baseline everything get it idling nicely, and then reinstall whatever ignition system you like, knowing that everything else has been...

You don't need a factory coil necessarily. A coil is a coil, and while OE coils are likely to last longer, any aftermarket coil should get you up and running. You won't burn anything up by chosing the wrong coil -- aside from the coil itself...

From the looks of it your missing the heat shield with spacer piece under the carb. then you will get your clearance issue resolved. Looks like you are using an early style intake manifold. Im sure someone will chime in if I am wrong. have you...

The lock assy does have a locking slide clip to hold it flush to the outer door on the inside- The handle you have should be easy to run a 5/6 mm die to cut new threads, then just get a smaller nut-

got a free fiberglass top-but in Fla. It's rough,but serviceable with some roof rack hole plugs and paint--pics if interested, maybe mudship?

only need two latches-one for each window

still have the rear vent window latches?-price? gary

thank you for the quick reply--, but the broken parts I need are the latches, my other window parts are ok

interested in the rear vent window lock latches--or all hardware or glass-depending on how you want to sell--I only need the latches, but if you are selling all together would consider

Are the rear quarter vent window locks still available?

...except this is a 46 year old engine with 46 year old parts. Torque to yield wasn't used back then. At least not in the 2F engine.

think you have discovered your prob

My 76 has them attached to the roll bar base. I have never seen them on the jump seat bolts which are quite a bit smaller and most likely not as strong.

Ok… got to work on her this past week. I ended up chasing all the threads in the head and clean the bolt threads really good prior to gasket install. I started with 23ftlbs, then went to 24 ftlbs , and finished with 25 ftlbs. I went against...

A leak in the intake will make it run lean. Running lean burns things up. #5 is where the leaking brake booster will cause damage.

you should NOT see any rpm change if you spray an exhaust leak--but, I don't know what the symptoms would be if the 4/5 exhaust valve were to be partially open during the intake stroke

Them's good numbers

14-16 in Hg is low for idle-even at 900-1000rpm--at 950 rpm I'm running 20.5 inches vac when first started-after up to temp, still see 20" at my normal 700rpm idle(I'm in SW Fla. so maybe 15' above sea level). Your timing issue may be impacting...