radiatior mount and shroud (1 Viewer)

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Need ideas/ inspiration.
Anyone made these items?
Post up pics as Im really wanting to see them.

K
 
what kind of vehicle are we talking about????
fj40 complete 052.JPG
fj40 complete 044.JPG
fj40 complete 053.JPG
 
what kind of vehicle are we talking about????

FJ 40, but Im not being picky on where the inspiration comes from.:D
did you buy that shroud or make it?

Its very nice!
 
BTW...thanks for the pics.
Keep em coming!
 
Bret,
How is the rad. mounted to the frame and held in place?

the support clamps the radiator on the sides then there is a support that comes down similar to the OEM radiator support. There are rubber isolators wherever there would be metal to metal contact.
rad sup sm.JPG
Rad Sup sm_2.jpg
 
the support clamps the radiator on the sides then there is a support that comes down similar to the OEM radiator support. There are rubber isolators wherever there would be metal to metal contact.

VERY SLICK!
Simple and functional.

Like it!
 
I'm still scratching my head how to build one for my 40 :hmm:.
But will be a good idea to use the OEM mounting tabs and use the radiaor top and bottom "C" chanels to insert a rubber block for isolation purpose ! That's what I'm thinking.
 
My stock rad support was a U shape and my 19x26 rad wouldn't fit in the U so I secured it from the bottom and sides. As far as the shroud if I did it again I would use the stretchy fabric approach instead of a mold.
 
I'm still scratching my head how to build one for my 40 :hmm:.
But will be a good idea to use the OEM mounting tabs and use the radiaor top and bottom "C" chanels to insert a rubber block for isolation purpose ! That's what I'm thinking.

I was heading this route today...
Scrapped it.
Im using the 19 x 24 griffen rad. and with the "C" channel sides, PLUS the rubber insulators it made it just TOO WIDE to fit and NOT obstruct access to sag joint.
I whipped up a TOP and BOTTOM cap that runs in between the two tanks on the rad, and I took some i in square tube and ran it vertically on the FRONT of the rad. that will secure the two cap picecs and lock it all in place.
I was EFFING AROUND with that c channel on the sides and cementing in the rubber...WASTED basically TWO DAYS for that to set up and it wouldnt FIT any way.:bang:
 
I'm still scratching my head how to build one for my 40 :hmm:.
But will be a good idea to use the OEM mounting tabs and use the radiaor top and bottom "C" chanels to insert a rubber block for isolation purpose ! That's what I'm thinking.

I was heading this route today...
Scrapped it.
Im using the 19 x 24 griffen rad. and with the "C" channel sides, PLUS the rubber insulators it made it just TOO WIDE to fit and NOT obstruct access to sag joint.
I whipped up a TOP and BOTTOM cap that runs in between the two tanks on the rad, and I took some 1 in square tube and ran it vertically on the FRONT of the rad. that will secure the two cap picecs and lock it all in place.
I was EFFING AROUND with that c channel on the sides and cementing in the rubber...WASTED basically TWO DAYS for that to set up and it wouldnt FIT any way.:bang:

I have about 1.5 in clearance from the front of the clutch and the rad...will that be enough?
Seems like it should be okay?
 
I have about 1.5 in clearance from the front of the clutch and the rad...will that be enough?
Seems like it should be okay?

That should be plenty so long as you can still remove the fan and clutch with the radiator in place. And even in deep water crossings since you have the clutch it should be enough room for it to not pull the fan into the radiator as well.
 
That should be plenty so long as you can still remove the fan and clutch with the radiator in place. And even in deep water crossings since you have the clutch it should be enough room for it to not pull the fan into the radiator as well.

OOOOOO...Good point on the fan and clutch removal!!!!
Didnt even think of that. Ill have to test that out tomorrow!
Thanks brother.
 
No problem man, anyway I can help.
 
So here's what I came up with thus far...
cap at the top and the bottom...then vertical supports bolted at the top and the bottom to essentially CLAMP the rad. in place.
Ill be applying some bed line stuff INSIDE of the caps to protect the the rad from the steel. I have 1/2 in thick rubber pads, but the liner is for extra measure.

Better understand if you see it...

After I scrapped the first design and figured out what I wanted to do...things went together pretty smooth. This only took a few hours to get to where Im at now.

Pleased with it so far.
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007.jpg
 
It looks good, just check bib clearance with the hood latch on it !
 
Holy heavy duty Batman! The only thing that may be worth adding before paint would be tabs for tranny/power steering/oil cooler. Are you stabilizing it from the rear as well?
 

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