Sway Bar Disconnects (1 Viewer)

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Oct 14, 2005
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Waynesboro, VA, USA
Website
www.overlandexperts.com
Keep hearing about these, mostly from j**p guys. Haven't heard much about them here, though.

I'm curious what the story is with these things. Obviously, they help with articulation, but what is the installation? Heck, you could just remove the bolt at the trail head, but that would be a hassle. What do disconnects do differently than that.

Somebody school me, please.:flipoff2:
 
From what I have hurd due to the length of the swaybar arms they do not limit the articulation but help on road.
 
One of the big problems on the 80's vs the Heeps is that the sway bars are mounted above the driveshaft in the front and would contact if held "up" out of the way and the rear swaybar is attached to the axle and there is basically no practical way to make disconnects and have the bars out of the way as possible on Heeps due to the swaybar mounted high on the frame/subframe in the front.

IMHO having a certain amount of swaybar action actually helps on the trail by increasing the contact pressure and thereby the traction of the wheel being pushed up, asuming you have lockers. Too much can obviously limit travel to an extent but when rated properly swaybars don't limit very much travel at all and the extra traction is worth it. I have seen lifted Heeps with no sway bars or disconnects and lockers that flex like crazy but the tires are so light that they just spin and go nowhere or hop up and down risking driveline breakage whereas I have just lifted a tire or two on my cruiser following them with lockers and I cruise right through without any tire spin at all. Overall weight is certainly part of the equation but I feel the 80 series is very balanced with only minor mods.

Basically flex isn't everything. It is certianly important to an extent but there are many other factors to consider as well in a rigs wheelability. 80's are top heavy and the benefit on the road is also a factor to be considered.
 
The rear sway bar certainly does limit downward travel, but that's assuming you have the correct suspension system to take advantage of it. With a mild lift I doubt you'd see a difference because the shocks will limit downward movement before the tension of the swaybar comes into play. With J-springs and matching shocks, the lack of a rear swaybar (even with the drop brackets) makes a difference. I really didn't notice much difference in the front so I left it on.

On road handling will suffer as you will have more top sway with the rear removed. It is up to the individual driver to determine if the difference is "worth it".
 
I'm definitely in no position to school you but from what I'm hearing after looking into it some myself the 80 has the radius control arms on the front which limit flex as well as shock extension limits. Removing the swaybar has little to no effect off-road. Most j**ps usually have no lockers (factory of course) and a four link in front so it allows the suspension to drop more to get better traction, I have owned several j***s without lockers and know the feeling. If your 80 doesn’t have lockers sell it and buy one that does and the sway bar will be the last thing on your mind. When I bought mine I wouldn’t even look at one without them. DA*N that switch is sweet! :flipoff2:
Anyway I'm looking into a easy disconnect for another reason, to beef my sway bars up so I can enjoy hauling the toys off the front and back on the road with better comfort and when I do get off road hit the switch and it gives your flex back. I've been looking and there is plenty room up front to raise the bar closer to the frame and add drops to the axle and still get plenty of flex with the radius arms. Here is one idea, but still a ways off from happening in my case.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=138797 Sorry not trying to hyjack but looking for answers myself.
 
I'm definitely in no position to school you but from what I'm hearing after looking into it some myself the 80 has the radius control arms on the front which limit flex as well as shock extension limits. Removing the swaybar has little to no effect off-road. Most j**ps usually have no lockers (factory of course) and a four link in front so it allows the suspension to drop more to get better traction.


You are correct that the difference in suspension design stock to stock comparo is one of the main reasons you won't see much gain with disconnects on an 80 vs a Heep.

If your 80 doesn’t have lockers sell it and buy one that does and the sway bar will be the last thing on your mind. DA*N that switch is sweet! :flipoff2:


That switch is sweet but I wouldn't neccessarily go that far. If you count the potential difference in price (most sellers have figured out how important that switch is to those like us), the tax and DMV charges associated with the new vehicle, smog charges (big in Ca), baselining the new 80 with fluids and PM, changing over or replacing any mods you have done thus far and you will offset most or all of the cost of adding air lockers to both ends. Even if you only added one rear locker you would gain much more on the trail than if you designed and implemented a sway bar disconnect system. You would also have the benefit of the air lockers increased strength over the oem electric lockers. ;)


Anyway I'm looking into a easy disconnect for another reason, to beef my sway bars up so I can enjoy hauling the toys off the front and back on the road with better comfort and when I do get off road hit the switch and it gives your flex back. I've been looking and there is plenty room up front to raise the bar closer to the frame and add drops to the axle and still get plenty of flex with the radius arms. Here is one idea, but still a ways off from happening in my case.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=138797 Sorry not trying to hyjack but looking for answers myself.


Are you planning to run a rack to haul stuff off the front of your rig as well as the rear? Sounds like the stronger sway bar with electronic disconnect would be a beneficial mod for what you plan to do. As you mentioned before the radius arm design and factory shocks do limit flexing and regardless of what you do with the swaybar set up that will have to be adressed to have flex to "get back". Great idea I will have to keep and eye on your other thread, I am interested to see what you come up with.:D :cheers:
 

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