Front wheel job: 48 in-lb = hand / preload = move? (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

OK, down to the bare spindle just for kicks.
Managed to crunch my oil seal getting it out... :whoops: (Got a Chicago Rawhide until I get the real thing. These OK to use for a while? Looks flimsy, but then it's just to keep grease in, no biggie I hope.)

So to put the thing back on, FSM calls for 48 in-lb on the adjusting nut. I doubt very much my torque wrench works accurately in that range (it's a 150 ft lb or something). Hand tight good enough for the 4 lbft, right?

Also, the preload check (10 lbs or so on the fish scale), the idea is that the rotor should *begin* to rotate at that value of pull, correct?

tempted to have a peep inside the Birf but may wait... (I know, I know...)

E

 

[GXO]

Go for the birfs...they really aren't hard.

I believe that you have it correct as I read your description.

 

[landtank]

I'd pull the spindle just to evaluate. The gasket behind it is paper and shouldn't tear but if it does you can cut one from a sheet bought at any auto store.

 

[e9999]

I'd pull the spindle just to evaluate. The gasket behind it is paper and shouldn't tear but if it does you can cut one from a sheet bought at any auto store.

can you see enough just by pulling the spindle off? No need to remove the knuckle itself?

E

 

[GXO]

Once you pull the spindle you can actually remove the birf without messing with the knuckle housing or the weep seals.

 

[e9999]

I wouldn't mind having a peek to ascertain the Birf grease condition, frankly, but I don't feel like doing the whole job now, no time, and no parts. IIRC, the Birf cup is facing the inside so wouldn't see anything in there if I don't actually pull the Birf I imagine. But don't want to pull the axle, what with the locker, inner ring, inner seal, goop everywhere and all that. Can one pull just the Birf cup and the stub without pulling the big axle piece that goes to the diff?

E

 

[Beowulf]

>> Can one pull just the Birf cup and the stub without pulling the big axle piece that goes to the diff?
<<

No, they are attached to each other.
-B-

 

[landtank]

pulling the flange would allow you to see the condition of the grease and the quantity.

If you lock the front diff if you have one and drain the gear oil you could then slide out the birf and look inside. That may be more than you want to do but your right at the door, just need to open it to see in side.

 

[e9999]

OK, so if I pull the spindle off but not the Birf, the only thing I can see is if there is enough grease (or oil) in the knuckle then? If so, I may do that to make sure there is no oil, but may just wait till later for the real job, it's not bad at all to get down to the spindle (even without the real tools for that matter).

And my interpretation of the hand tightening and the fish scale thing (above) are correct, correct?

E

added: looks like I may not even need to drain the oil actually (as pointed out by CDan). I lifted the side quite a bit and doubt that any oil would come out the side.

 

[landtank]

I don't use the fish scale method so my lack of response is not an indication that your understanding is correct. If you yank the flange be sure to clean the bushing. That bastard caused me plenty of grief.

 

[Doc]

Do you need to lock the front diff to pull the birf? I didn't.

I don't think there are any problems......

 

[cruiserdan]

You do not need to lock the front, only the rear.....

 

[landtank]

If you have locking differentials and don't lock them prior to removing an axle they can fall apart and you won't be able to slide the axle back in. It's a gamble as I have removed mine without incident and I have locking diffs. Never again though.


I'm pretty sure the manual says to lock both of them prior to service, I'll have to check.

 

[cruiserdan]

Rick is correct, I just verified it. The FSM states that the front should be locked as well as the rear before removal. It is not clear however if the front should be locked for shaft removal or for diff removal from axle housing. In any case better safe than sorry, trying to fish bits out of the axle housing.

 

[Safado]

Also, the preload check (10 lbs or so on the fish scale), the idea is that the rotor should *begin* to rotate at that value of pull, correct?
E

Uhhh I'll throw an answer out on this and find out if what I do is correct or not.


Every time you adjust the adjusting or locking nut, the first pull will always register more on the fish scale than the others that follow. I personally will adjust the nut, move the hub back and forth and then measure it. I do this because it is my understanding that the preload is being set now and should remain that way even next week if you check it again...it won't if you measure off the initial pull.

Anyone else?

 

[landtank]

typically in situations as this the pull force to start something moving is more than it is to maintain it moving. Not sure which one you are concerned with but I'd assume it's the latter.

 

[landtoy80]

The 94 FSM say nothing about locking the diff before removing the axle.
It says to lock the diff if you are removing the diff.
Does newer FSM say lock the diff under the knuckle rebuild or under the diff removal?

 

[landtank]

My 96 manual also states to only lock the diff when servicing it. However Christo and others have reported that if you don't lock the diff when removing the axle the locking sleeve can shift out of place on the fork and not allow you to re-install the axle.

 

[e9999]

OK, so locked it is, but back to the original questions (if I may):

Anybody else OK with

- tightening the nut by hand instead of "dialing" 4 lbft?
- looking for beginning of rotation with scale?

sorry....

E

 

[landtank]

Nice avatar, luckily it seems you have a supervisor on site.