62 FJ45 SWB (1 Viewer)

[FJ40 MATT]

On a 69 fj40 I have the distributor would sometimes move out of position after being driven bc the bolt or clamp wasn’t tight enough. The truck would run fine when starting & idling. The next time I would go to start it after driving it the distributor wasn’t in the same position I had in the day before and the timing would be off. I tightened up the distributor and it stopped back firing when I would go to start it and has ran good since. Seemed like some of the same issues you are having. Or maybe your coil is on it’s way out

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

On a 69 fj40 I have the distributor would sometimes move out of position after being driven bc the bolt or clamp wasn’t tight enough. The truck would run fine when starting & idling. The next time I would go to start it after driving it the distributor wasn’t in the same position I had in the day before and the timing would be off. I tightened up the distributor and it stopped back firing when I would go to start it and has ran good since. Seemed like some of the same issues you are having. Or maybe your coil is on it’s way out

Thanks! That’s good to know. I ordered a timing light so I can hopefully get it in the correct position. My coil is brand new but that is a good point. I will meter that and just verify it’s still in good condition.
Thanks for the info!!

 

[aztoyman]

I wouldn't go taking it apart unless you are doing a restoration. Make sure you have a manual with specs if you do.

A quick check for the shaft bushings is physically try to move the shaft and see if you have any wobble or slop. Bad bushings make it hard to accurately set your points. There is a cam and rubbing block on the points. Worn out bushings affect this interface.

The vacuum diaphragm can be checked with a Mity- Vac or suck on the hose to it and see if it moves and holds vacuum. (Trying to be professional)

Just clean it up for now. Electrical cleaner spray inside. The points rubbing block get a dab of lube (grease usually)

If the points looked burned up there's a possibility the condenser isn't up to par. But usually wont run with a bad one.

Find some youtube videos of points distributors. Even if not Toyota. Pretty basic.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

I wouldn't go taking it apart unless you are doing a restoration. Make sure you have a manual with specs if you do.

A quick check for the shaft bushings is physically try to move the shaft and see if you have any wobble or slop. Bad bushings make it hard to accurately set your points. There is a cam and rubbing block on the points. Worn out bushings affect this interface.

The vacuum diaphragm can be checked with a Mity- Vac or suck on the hose to it and see if it moves and holds vacuum. (Trying to be professional)

Just clean it up for now. Electrical cleaner spray inside. The points rubbing block get a dab of lube (grease usually)

If the points looked burned up there's a possibility the condenser isn't up to par. But usually wont run with a bad one.

Find some youtube videos of points distributors. Even if not Toyota. Pretty basic.

That’s awesome. Thanks for all that. I agree with what your saying and I think I can handle all that. The shaft doesn’t seem to wobble side to side but does have some play up and down. I will try and get a better view of the end surface of the points and I’ll sure clean it and lube it like you said.
I live on YouTube. Believe… me!!!! Hahaha
Thanks a lot for the help!

 

[aztoyman]

The up and down movement is ok. You can actually check spark with it on the bench if you hook it up with the coil, a plug wire and a spark plug. Basically wire it up to power and turn the shaft while the plug is touching a ground. Again check some youtube videos.

* Some points systems are a full 12 volts to the coil and some are not and go through a resister. Check specs and make sure of what you are supposed to have*.

The points and coil give you the spark, the mechanical advance mechanism provides the advance curve and the vacuum advance either advances or retards timing depending on factory design. I don't know what Toyota did on your model. I'm just covering the basics.

Hopefully all that's wrong is what FJ40 MATT mentioned. It just slipped out of time a bit because of the clamp.

I'm looking forward to seeing this running.

 

[63cruiser]

Two items, make sure the distributor is fully seated when it is reinstalled. Seems simple but there are numerous threads of starving the motor of oil by not seating the distributor. Also, if interested in a rebuild, I highly recommend @4Cruisers. He is a magician with distributors

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Thanks everyone for the help!! That give me a lot to look into!!

 

[4Cruisers]

Well I was able to quickly take off the distributor. To be honest I’m kind of afraid to tear into this thing!! I’m working to get some feeler gauges and check the gap.
Is there any other suggestions for testing this thing possibly without taking it completely apart. How can I verify the condenser is ok? Or even the advancer for that matter.

View attachment 3258301View attachment 3258303View attachment 3258297

In the two photos, just above the points pivot shaft with the retaining clip, there's a hole in the breaker plate that holds a small eccentric screw. Your screw is missing. There is a screwdriver slot in the top of that eccentric screw so that when you turn the screw it opens and closes the points gap. It's helpful for fine adjustment but you can get by without it.

I've refurbished quite a few of these distributors and have replaced the top of the breaker plate with a later breaker plate. That allows you to use the later points used in the 1/75 through 9/77 2F distributors. It's the same breaker plate used in the later non-US F distributors. I may have one more set of parts to do this easy conversion, I'll take a look this morning. For details, check my post from several years ago:

Successful Upgrade and Refurbishment of a '68 and Earlier F Engine Distributor Incorporating New NipponDenso Parts

This morning I completed the upgrade and refurbishment of a '68 and earlier F engine distributor using new NipponDenso parts. The starting point was Part Number 19100-60042. My primary goal was to identify and install a non-Land Cruiser Toyota vacuum advancer with a similar vacuum advance curve...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[aztoyman]

There's your distributor solution.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

In the two photos, just above the points pivot shaft with the retaining clip, there's a hole in the breaker plate that holds a small eccentric screw. Your screw is missing. There is a screwdriver slot in the top of that eccentric screw so that when you turn the screw it opens and closes the points gap. It's helpful for fine adjustment but you can get by without it.

I've refurbished quite a few of these distributors and have replaced the top of the breaker plate with a later breaker plate. That allows you to use the later points used in the 1/75 through 9/77 2F distributors. It's the same breaker plate used in the later non-US F distributors. I may have one more set of parts to do this easy conversion, I'll take a look this morning. For details, check my post from several years ago:

Successful Upgrade and Refurbishment of a '68 and Earlier F Engine Distributor Incorporating New NipponDenso Parts

This morning I completed the upgrade and refurbishment of a '68 and earlier F engine distributor using new NipponDenso parts. The starting point was Part Number 19100-60042. My primary goal was to identify and install a non-Land Cruiser Toyota vacuum advancer with a similar vacuum advance curve...

forum.ih8mud.com

Interesting!!!!
Is that screw something available for purchase anywhere??

I’m going to try and bench test it to see if it’s possible for me to clean it up without making it worse.
I’d sure like to be able to do the work myself as that the only way I seem to learn how this stuff works. Haha but if I hit a dead end maybe we can work out a deal for you to rebuild if your open to that.

Thanks for your time!!!

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

I did pull the plugs and they seem pretty dirty to me. Which I’m guessing could have to do with the timing being off and such.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Well !!
I went through the distributor and everything seems great. I get good spark and points gap is good. I reinstalled it in the motor and couldn’t get it to fire. I messed with the timing a bit. But I feel I’m doing this all wrong. It is completely seated as well. I did make sure of that.
I took my timing light and made sure I was getting the top dead center mark when cylinder one fires. I then read in my manual it should line up with the BB. I tried that as well but I believe that is more when the truck is running correct??
Anyways after trying and trying all the sudden I got a huge gun shot boom!!!
My ears are still ringing.
I’m questioning my entire thought process.
Whats the firing order. What cylinder is cylinder one maybe I’ve got the simple things completely wrong??
I’ve got a 1st grade education when it comes to engines so I’m hoping for some expert advice!!

 

[4Cruisers]

Firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4, cylinders are numbered 1 through 6 starting at the front of the engine.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4, cylinders are numbered 1 through 6 starting at the front of the engine.

Ok. I’ve got all that right then.
What’s the best way to know if my timing is on without the truck running.
I mean I checked with timing light while trying to turn it over. But that’s just the turning it.
I feel like my timing has got to be way off for it to act like ths.

 

[3_puppies]

you could try running the plug wires 180 degrees rotated, just in case you ae on the exhaust stroke versus the compression stroke
the BB will be in the same place on both strokes

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

you could try running the plug wires 180 degrees rotated, just in case you ae on the exhaust stroke versus the compression stroke
the BB will be in the same place on both strokes

Ok!!! Ya it’s worth a shot!
As far as the BB goes should my pointer be as close to that as possible? Or closer to the line. I’ve seen photos on here and their pointer is more in between the two. Again this is just while I’m cranking the starter over since I’m unable to get it running. Incase that makes a difference?

 

[aztoyman]

Just to be clear, you usually leave the wires where they are.

You pull the distributor back up a little so it's off the drive gear. Leaving the rotor pointed at number one plug wire.

Then you turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation ONE revolution back to your timing mark and drop the distributor back in. This is how you correct your timing being out 180 degrees. (On the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke.)

I'm not familiar with this engine. If it also drives your oil pump like many engines do, make sure it also engages it.

Good luck, I hope it fires up for you.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Just to be clear, you usually leave the wires where they are.

You pull the distributor back up a little so it's off the drive gear. Leaving the rotor pointed at number one plug wire.

Then you turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation ONE revolution back to your timing mark and drop the distributor back in. This is how you correct your timing being out 180 degrees. (On the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke.)

I'm not familiar with this engine. If it also drives your oil pump like many engines do, make sure it also engages it.

Good luck, I hope it fires up for you.

Thanks I will keep all that in mind!! And yes I believe it drives the oil pump from the bottom of the shaft. From what I can tell.

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

The BB is 7 degrees above top dead center. It should run there and at the line, but probably at the BB it'll probably run better. If it were me, I'd pull all the plugs and the dizzy, move the engine by hand to the top dead center line, reinstall the dizzy making sure it is seated well (sounds like you've been doing that), making wherever the rotor is pointing toward be the wire leading to number 1 cylinder and reinstall the plugs. As @4Cruisers said, the order is 1 5 3 6 2 4. Lay out all the wires in order by length on the floor and judge which is needed as you go around the distributor cap to fit to the plugs. If the engine does not fire in the rotational space provided by the dizzy hold down bolt, then see if you're 180 degrees out. Make what was formerly number 1 cylinder now be the wire to number 6 and go around moving all the wires and try and restart. This procedure should get you going.

 

[middlecalf]

When at TDC - the pointer on the bell housing aligns with the line on the flywheel - either cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke or cylinder #6. The flywheel makes two full rotations for both #1 and #6 to reach their compression strokes, so that's why it's possible for one or the other to be on that stroke when at TDC. You have to make sure when at TDC that cylinder #1 is on it's compression stroke. Otherwise, if #6 is on it's compression stroke at TDC and you have the dizzy rotor pointing to the number #1 plug wire you'll have a bit of problem to say the least. Best way for myself to verify which cylinder is on it's compression stroke - remember either cylinder #1 or #6 can be on it's compression stroke when at TDC - is to pull the valve cover and check the rockers. Whichever cylinder is on it's compression stroke at TDC will have both of its valves closed so both rockers will have a little bit of wiggle over the lifter rods, the other cylinder won't have movement in both cuz one of the valves is open which requires downward pressure from that rocker onto the lifter rod. Just focus on getting this arrangement all set first - TDC, #1 on compression stroke, and dizzy rotor pointing to #1 plug wire - then when you get it running you can advance the dizzy to get the timing set on the ball (as mentioned 7-deg BTDC) or whatever timing you want using your timing light attached to cylinder #1 plug wire.