The plot thickens. Yes I bet they fudged something and you get to be the sleuth to find it.
Question on timing 1fz (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wpns4l
- Start date
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I think you have problem with timing chain alignment
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ppc
M Go Blue
May be that is just a bad photo but that rotor looks to be in poor condition. I would replace the rotor and distributor cap before any further diagnosis.
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You can still achieve the timing with the light, but the rotor probably isn't pointing at the correct wire like it should.
That would cause it to run like crud.
[edit] Sorry, this seemed to make sense before coffee.
Now that I think about it, I'm wrong here, as pointed out below.
That would cause it to run like crud.
[edit] Sorry, this seemed to make sense before coffee.
Now that I think about it, I'm wrong here, as pointed out below.
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Excellent guide.
@wpns4l also think you're one tooth off.
Centre of rotor button should point at centre of plug lead #1 with the distributor housing bolt door centred.
Try shifting the dizzy gear one tooth clockwise as you install it.
It'll either fix the problem or it won't. There nothing to lose here.
It took me a few goes to be satisfied I had it right on mine.
I also think rotor is in poor condition, which means terminals on the cap probably are too.
Both are quite reasonably priced by Toyota IME
Both are quite reasonably priced by Toyota IME
ppc
M Go Blue
That is just not a true statement. The timing light is just a confirmation of the timing setting that the spark on cylinder 1 occurs at the proper position of the crankshaft.
One additional thing for the OP is to confirm that all the spark leads are connected to the correct cylinders from distributor to spark plugs and that the spark leads are tested for proper resistance.
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surfpig
The Anti-Tech
You guys keep missing what he is saying though. He has tried the rotor orientation in the correct spot but can't get good time that way.
The timing chain being off a tooth or so is making sense, especially since they were in there for the head gasket.
The timing chain being off a tooth or so is making sense, especially since they were in there for the head gasket.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
The distributor rotor could also be 180* off, too. That’s worth checking out. And simple.
So, did it run right when you bought it? Why did you remove the distributor? I’m also a bit confused here...
So, did it run right when you bought it? Why did you remove the distributor? I’m also a bit confused here...
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- Thread starter
- #31
So this is what I have it at right now. This is with the adjustment screw in the center position, at 0tdc. In this position I can adjust the timing to 0tdc but no further. It runs and idles good at 0tdc but I would imagine it's even better at 3-6btdc.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
One more tooth over?
- Thread starter
- #33
It ran fine to me when I got it. I took it to get smogged and they told me the timing was set at 0tdc but should be 3btdc. I'm allowed +/-3 so I still passed smog.
When I got home I went to adjust it to get to 3-6btdc and noticed I'm at max adjustment and can't. So I removed the diz to try and get this fixed but can't. Which makes me think it's the cams or timing chain not lined us as should be. Or I just really suck at inserting a diz.
- Thread starter
- #34
One tooth over as in don't line up the marks on the diz?
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Well OK. If it passed smog at zero and you can’t adjust it anymore from than that, it follows that you’re just one tooth off from spec. I can go from 0 to maybe 12 BTDC.
if cams/chain are off you’d never pass smog. Nor would it even run probably.
do you have one of these?
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Likely your last sentence is true. Might just take a few more tries.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Yeah, don’t bother with that. Set crank to TDC. Pull the distributor cap and make sure it’s set at #1 TDC, rotor position (pointed at Cyl #1 on the cap AND at TDC). rotor rotates (counter clockwise? can’t remember) as it comes out. Turn the rotor just a bit (counter clockwise?) I think the gears turn the rotor clockwise when you insert it, and try it again.
<edit> looking at the very helpful photos from that other post, it looks like you still need to be just a tick counterclockwise. Again, you can put the cap on to visually check if you’re right at #1 TDC. You’re really close.
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The right info is here. So just posting in solidarity that i was off when i replaced mine but only by 180 degrees because i don't bother with checking the compression stroke...didn't start so pulled it out and rotated it 180 degrees from where it was ha. I really appreciate the location of the dizzy. Much easier access with the exception that if it leaks it can kill the alternator
- Thread starter
- #40
Ok. So with an extension in the spark plugs hole I rotated to 0TDC. The extension was at the top of it's movement but the diz rotor was facing toward the 4-5 o'clock position.
The other times I would keep rotating and when it came back to 0TDC and top of it's movement it would be pointing at the #1 wire on the diz cap. This is where I would pull the diz and try to make adjustments.
This time I pulled it from the first position I described. When I lined up the diz marks and inserted it looked like this...
Wich looks like what you guys have been telling me it should look like. I button it up but it won't start.
The other times I would keep rotating and when it came back to 0TDC and top of it's movement it would be pointing at the #1 wire on the diz cap. This is where I would pull the diz and try to make adjustments.
This time I pulled it from the first position I described. When I lined up the diz marks and inserted it looked like this...
Wich looks like what you guys have been telling me it should look like. I button it up but it won't start.
