What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (62 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

After seeing my LC sit for a solid 6 months, we finally got some time to work on it. I experienced brake failure with the kids in the car. Thankfully it ended as good as it possibly could have. Winded up getting a ‘18 Sequoia TRD as a temporary DD. (It was either a sequoia or an armored bank truck) My husband and I finally had some time to fix the brakes. And thanks to the forum it was all pretty simple just time consuming. We got a rebuilt brake accumulator, replaced some gaskets, rebuilt the master cylinder, assembled everything and 3 cranks later the starter died. Thankfully we’ve got a great shop that rebuilds starters and alternators in NW FL quickly. Put the rebuilt starter in cranks about 3 times and the alternator crapped out 😂. We had that rebuilt and put it in. Now nothing should be dying in it! There isn’t much mud on trails around here, they end up being sandy water pits most of the time. I’m happy to be taking my girl, Huey, out again!

I’ve got 2 rules for my rig.
A. It’s mine, I’m driving
B. It’s mine, I’m working on it

So my husband teaches me while we work on it together. I told him if he doesn’t hurt my feelings, I won’t fix his crooked nose with a wrench. We finished up and his nose is still crooked 😂 View attachment 2224164
View attachment 2224167
We took it out on some trails in Point Washington in NW FL on the way to a Granger Smith concert. Luckily for my husband I’m filling the LC up with ladies :cool:View attachment 2224166

Cheers for taking care of your own project! Hopefully you will never to need to find out but these trucks get EXPENSIVE if you have to hire someone to fix them.
Also, Is that your husband behind the camera in the last picture? Looks like he had to be in the puddle for that one - that shows commitment!
 
Did the passenger side valve cover gasket today.

And found out I need to splice in a new plug! WTF
DF752322-ED6D-4569-8E35-68853BCB0ED0.jpeg
4F6855B5-82C3-4EE4-AE11-F8239D5502D5.jpeg
B1B75941-F6AD-4C57-88DB-D2AABB891C20.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Got the last of two ECUs back from @Mauser to wrap up my new master key project for the 00 and 01. Also got His n Her YotaMD key fobs for the two master keys that will be daily use.

Was a mild PITA having one truck or the other disabled for 2(ish) weeks, but it was worth it finally have new master keys and remote unlock functionality.
YotaMD Keys.jpg
 
Back from the body shop thinking there was NO way we could get the paint to come back to life. The body shop owner and I were both surprised how good it turned out.

- Grille painted in high gloss and satin black
- Micro sanded to bring the sun faded paint back to black
- Was able to get the sun baked pin stripes off!

2C55E4D6-7003-413B-A405-4A768F1FDBA7.jpeg

F69508F9-C308-4B98-A973-B3B26BBBF2DE.jpeg

46F88ED6-4669-4440-AB3A-A07CCFDC3456.jpeg
 
Got the last of two ECUs back from @Mauser to wrap up my new master key project for the 00 and 01. Also got His n Her YotaMD key fobs for the two master keys that will be daily use.

Was a mild PITA having one truck or the other disabled for 2(ish) weeks, but it was worth it finally have new master keys and remote unlock functionality.View attachment 2224638
I need to know about this. I miss the luxury of having a key fob!
 
High-fives to you! I've never dated a woman willing to work on or even help work on their own vehicle. My most recent ex and I made the deal that I'd maintain her LC so long as she just kept me company while doing it. Well, she didn't, and I sure as hell didn't want to buy the truck from her when we split. "Uh... no. You haven't done an oil change in a year..."



This week I realized I've got a coolant leak somewhere. Started noticing my temps creeping up at the SGII, to the point of idling at 198* in 50* ambient heat. Added nearly two liters (emergency stash in an old Coke bottle) and she's back in spec. Now to find this friggin' leak...

Thanks man! I don’t ever like being a damsel in distress lol. Thankfully we have a super cool relationship and 3 kiddos. He is patient with me.

On to better things like finding that coolant leak! Haha. That’s a bummer
 
Back from the body shop thinking there was NO way we could get the paint to come back to life. The body shop owner and I were both surprised how good it turned out.

- Grille painted in high gloss and satin black
- Micro sanded to bring the sun faded paint back to black
- Was able to get the sun baked pin stripes off!

View attachment 2224654
View attachment 2224655
View attachment 2224658
That looks really good! My LC is the Toyota super white. It was super oxidized when I picked it up. Total PITA. I winded up doing a paint correction on it while I tossed my husband on baby duty for 2 days. It’s somewhere in this thread. Love how your grill turned out
 
Cheers for taking care of your own project! Hopefully you will never to need to find out but these trucks get EXPENSIVE if you have to hire someone to fix them.
Also, Is that your husband behind the camera in the last picture? Looks like he had to be in the puddle for that one - that shows commitment!

Thanks man! I made him stand next to the puddle. haha. We didn’t get a babysitter when we first modded the LC and I had some salty feelings about not having my hands on the project. Not anymore. Thankfully we have our own shop to work on it when needed now. Hopefully we will get a lift in there in the next few years!
 
I've run the same on mine for the past few years and been happy with it. What part of Columbus are you in?
Yeah, so far so good. The old suspension was really clapped out. This was definitely an easier suspension upgrade compared to my FJ62 I had years ago. I’m on the NE side between Westerville & Worthington. :beer:
 
I would pull the wheel. Takes 10 minutes to do. Disconnect battery. pull the 2 trim panels on the side of the wheel. Unscrew the 2 Torx screws to remove the airbag and horn assembly. Disconnect 3 harnesses (2 on the back of air bag assembly, one at the top). Remove 19 MM nut on steering wheel. Mark the position of the wheel on the tapered steering column spindle so you can put the wheel back on in the same place. Use a steering wheel puller to pop off.

Once you have the wheel off it is pretty easy to conceptualize the fitment and to stretch the cover over the wheel and align it. Note: there are stickers on the inside of the cover saying front and back. Using the double sided tape cut into 2-3" pieces go all the way around and on the spokes both front and back then stretch the cover as you start removing the tape back and work it into place. Start stitching from one of the spokes, have a beer and sit down to watch something while you stitch for 3 hours. You have to do quite a bit of tugging and stretching so I would use some tape on your fingers where you pull the thread.

View attachment 2224306

Also I found that no real tucking was necessary if you finish the spokes like this.

View attachment 2224309

Since its nylon thread you can burn it to make a starting point instead of a knot and finish the ends as well. I would not as well that the plastic cover on the back may have to be trimmed to not rub when turning. I have to pull mine again and do this. Pulling the instrument cluster this weekend so will try and get some pics of this.

Great write up. The detail was great. 👍
 
Changed the front, rear differential and transfer case gear lubes. I had a good supply of crush differential washers for the Tacoma that came in handy on this job.
 
Removed lens cover from turn signal to drain water and condensation. Dried, cleaned and roughed the edges to reattach with JB Weld plastic bonder. The plastic bonder version is gray but allows longer working time than the clear. Worse case scenario, if it doesn't work out satisfactory then I completely replace the pair.
 
Pulled the DS front axle shaft to replace a leaking differential/axle oil seal. Rebuilt the CV axle with an OEM boot kit while it was out, since it had been slinging a little grease from under the clamps. Replaced upper ball joint since it was quite loose and I was already in there. Replaced inner and outer tie rod ends. Replaced steering rack bushings with Whiteline. I did skip the rear DS bushing since it was time for dinner, but I'll get that one at some point. Changed the front diff oil since I leaked some before I changed the seal.

A couple notes:
-My flex head ratcheting breaker bar made it super easy to reach the rear bolt on the PS horseshoe clamp on my '99 steering rack. One more time that I've loved having that wrench.
-My new snap ring pliers worked amazingly well on my CV rebuild, ball joint replacement, axle snap/hub ring, and rebuilding both CV axles on my GF's 4Runner this week. I highly, highly recommend the "Stanley Proto J250G Proto 9-Inch Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers".
-I ordered Raybestos outer tie rod ends on closeout from Rockauto for $16 each, and they're three five made in Japan, and look identical to OEM, just in a Raybestos box. Looks like Moog is also selling the same ones for quite a bit less than OEM price. Might be worth checking out if you're trying to save where you can like I am.
-If you do your inner tie rod ends, definitely buy or borrow the OEM tools master tie rod end tool (the bright green one) or similar. It made that a fifteen minute job per side. If you buy/borrow a different one, make sure it has a 42mm spanner with the kit to fit the inner ends.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom