Builds "Thing 3" FJ80 build (7 Viewers)

[jasonc]

Today I mostly just worked on getting manifolds cleaned up, and getting the final valve adjustment done. Valve adjustment went well, but was more difficult than usual because the valves were so far off I wasn't able to figure out if I was at compression or exhaust TDC. Once I got that figured out, it was cake.

As I previously posted, I was planning on doing a full EGR delete. As part of that, the air pump needed to go, and a new belt would be needed. I also was planning on doing a dual battery setup, and with all of my accessories and audio, I would also need an upgraded alternator. A high-end alternator can cost upwards of $500, and although it would probably be worth it, I couldn't get over all of the extra space I had above my current alternator...

Which gets me to where I am now. I happened to have a second alternator sitting around, so I threw it in where the air pump used to be. Much to my surprise, it fit on the factory air pump bracket! I'll probably need to make a stiffener bracket that connects the alternators together, but I believe it will work. It will maintain the adjustibility of the air pump, and should be able to use the same belt. This also means that the factory alternator will still have both belts driving it after the EGR delete, which was a concern for a few people.

It appears to line up with the other pullies, but I'll wait to say anything else about it until I get the PS pump in place.

 

[jasonc]

With my second alternator setup, one issue I had was the fan getting very close to the new pulley. Because I was using the 2nd slot in the pulley, I cut the first one off, which really improved the look.

Everything lines up perfectly, too. Couldn't be more satisfied with how this is going so far.

 

[jasonc]

Got the rest of the belts and accessories on today, and it was substantially easier without the radiator in. We started to get the radiator installed, but it started raining as soon as we got it set in. I guess that will have to wait until tomorrow. I also installed a OME steering stabilizer at some point, too.

 

[jasonc]

Geez, had a few really busy days and forgot to update, so here's everything that happened

We installed the radiator, got all of the lines connected and tightened down, and found this on the lower hose connection after pouring a gallon of water in:

Why can't they make metal radiators anymore? Grrrr...

After some JB weld and Permatex, it seemed to seal up perfectly. We then reinstalled the radiator, filled it up part way, and found several more leaks from a few hose connections that weren't fully tightened down. Once we got all of those nice and tight, it seemed to hold water fairly well.

After getting the coolant issues worked out, we filled it with Valvoline VV265 and ZDDP additive as per Man-a-fre recommendations, and primed the oil system. We hooked up the distributor, intake manifold, starter, and connected everything to the battery. Tried turning it over, and heard the famous "click" Obviously it wouldn't start, so it sat for a few hours until I had time to look at a few wiring diagrams.

After looking at another starter I had laying around, I realized there was a second connection that ran to the starter, some sort of black clip. I looked and I didn't have it connected yet, so I threw it on and tried starting it again. This time, it roared to life after a few cranks (and a jump start)

To break in the camshaft, I ran it around 2,000 for 20 minutes, varying the revs about 500 rpm. Everything ran perfectly, and coolant temperature was spot on. The oil pressure gauge was another story. There was also a wiring issue with the oil pressure sender, and it read 0. I knew it was definitely getting oil pressure, so we continued the break in. After hooking the oil pressure sender up, it read high, and is now stuck on high. No clue what to do about that one

After cam break in, we got the trans fluid topped off, got it up on jack stands, installed drive shafts, and ran it for a few minutes up there to make sure the transmission was properly connected, which it was. We then put it on the ground, installed AC condenser, auxiliary fan, and finished it up with the grille and hood.

And we threw the ARB on so we could do the piston ring seating in style

After a quick wash I'll hopefully have more pictures.

Also, when I parked after the ring seating procedures, some coolant decided to dump out. I'm hoping it's just a hose connection and not my JB weld job, so please send prayers my way when I check it out in the morning.

 

[jasonc]

Well I guess the prayers didn't work, because the radiator sprung another leak. Too bad the previous owner bought an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks. It's a slow drip so I've driven it a few miles, but the new aluminum/aluminum radiator should be coming in next week. As promised, here's pictures after it got a thorough wash

Lookin' good! I changed the initial cam break-in oil after a few miles, and put in Valvoline premium conventional with some zinc additive. I'll change that out after 50 miles, then I should be good to go for another 500.

 

[noahfecks]

Looks good Jason

I liked your dash where did you source the bulbs?

 

[jasonc]

Looks good Jason

I liked your dash where did you source the bulbs?

I got them off eBay for next to nothing, I can get you part numbers if you'd like?

 

[jasonc]

Whelp on it's maiden voyage, 20 miles round trip to my Grandparent's house, everything was going great on the way there. On the way back, however, I started hearing this odd high-pitched whine, and immediately pulled over and shut the truck off, fearing it was engine related. After 10 minutes looking over every inch of the engine, I decided it could have been a pulley or something, and started it back up. I revved it a few times trying to listen for the sound, and heard nothing! I took it out of park, and puttered on. Immediately, I heard the noise again- I knew it wasn't anything to do with the engine, but instead the transmission. I pulled over once again to check the transmission fluid level, and it was right where it needed to be. I knew it probably wasn't the transmission because it was recently rebuilt, so I checked drivelines for any rubbing, bending, cracking, etc. Nothing. I started it once again and heard the same noise, but louder. I reached down and grabbed the transfer case shifter, and could feel it vibrating in sync with the screeching. s***.

I pulled off the road again and shut the truck off, got under it, and could immediately feel the heat radiating off of the transfer case. When I bought the truck, the fill plug had been rounded off, and I welded a nut on to it and put a new one in, but apparently forgot to check the fluid. As I put the pieces together, I realized the previous owner probably drained it, rounded off the fill plug, and obviously didn't refill it. Huge problem.

Luckily, I have another transfer case laying around, so I'm hoping I will be able to swap them out without having to pull the whole trans.

Moral of the story: REMOVE FILL PLUG BEFORE DRAIN PLUG
Also, check ALL fluids after buying a new truck

 

[noahfecks]

I got them off eBay for next to nothing, I can get you part numbers if you'd like?

I would appreciate that!

Sucks about your t-case, you might try filling it up with oil, I dont think 20 miles around town would have ruined it.

 

[jasonc]

I would appreciate that!

Sucks about your t-case, you might try filling it up with oil, I dont think 20 miles around town would have ruined it.

I had to fill it up to get it back home and it drove fairly well, but there was still a horrible bearing noise. I'll just go ahead and change the t case out since I have a spare, and maybe just sell the other as a core.

 

[1973Guppie]

Well I guess the prayers didn't work, because the radiator sprung another leak. Too bad the previous owner bought an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks. It's a slow drip so I've driven it a few miles, but the new aluminum/aluminum radiator should be coming in next week. As promised, here's pictures after it got a thorough wash

View attachment 1414231

View attachment 1414230

Lookin' good! I changed the initial cam break-in oil after a few miles, and put in Valvoline premium conventional with some zinc additive. I'll change that out after 50 miles, then I should be good to go for another 500.

what kind of soap is that?

 

[jasonc]

what kind of soap is that?

Just normal pressure washer soap, nothing special. We use a "foam cannon" hooked to the end of the pressure washer and it evenly coats the whole vehicle, definitely worth the money IMO.

 

[jasonc]

Looks good Jason

I liked your dash where did you source the bulbs?

Here's bulb information:

There are 3 different sizes,

Size comparison between the 2 kinds that I have:

One large (for backlighting of the gauge cluster, blinkers). This is a size T10. I went with a configuration with 10 LEDs, which is just slightly larger than the stock bulb. No fitment issues, very bright. I think I used 7 of these, but don't quote me on that. I ordered 20 of these in the "ultra blue" color for $8.59 shipped. Note: you will have to reuse the original twist in plug connectors from the stock bulbs, but they come apart very easily. Just push new ones into place.
Full headline from eBay item:
20 X Car Ultra Blue T10 10-SMD LED Side Wedge Light Lamp Bulbs W5W 168 194 2825

The green thing behind the bulbs is the twist connector

Next is a smaller size, used for the warning lights, PRND32L illumination (in gauge cluster, not shifter), and dash button lighting (CDL, defrost...) These are T4/T4.2 size. I ordered 20 for $5.59 shipped and used a majority of them. I also kept the stock bulbs for the warning lights and didn't install new ones because a blue check engine light wouldn't get my attention as easily . These came with the twist in plug connector already installed.
Full headline from eBay item:
20 xUltra Blue T4 T4.2 Neo Wedge 1-SMD LED Cluster Instrument Dash Climate Bulbs

I haven't been able to find the third size yet, found in the shifter and climate control, possibly a few dash buttons. I'll post it once I figure it out.

Quick note on installation: the polarity on these does matter, and there is no way to check positive and negative except for trial and error. I recommend taking off surrounding plastic dash pieces and installing all of the bulbs you plan on replacing at the same time. Plug it in without fastening anything down, turn it on, and note which sections are not illuminated, run through the gears as well. Unplug the cluster, and for the bulbs that didn't illuminate, twist out the connector and rotate it 180 degrees. Plug the cluster back in, fix anything you missed, and reassemble the dash.

Hope this helps, any other questions, feel free to ask!

 

[jdayment]

Here's bulb information:

There are 3 different sizes,

Size comparison between the 2 kinds that I have:
View attachment 1415535

One large (for backlighting of the gauge cluster, blinkers). This is a size T10. I went with a configuration with 10 LEDs, which is just slightly larger than the stock bulb. No fitment issues, very bright. I think I used 7 of these, but don't quote me on that. I ordered 20 of these in the "ultra blue" color for $8.59 shipped. Note: you will have to reuse the original twist in plug connectors from the stock bulbs, but they come apart very easily. Just push new ones into place.
Full headline from eBay item:
20 X Car Ultra Blue T10 10-SMD LED Side Wedge Light Lamp Bulbs W5W 168 194 2825

View attachment 1415530
The green thing behind the bulbs is the twist connector

Next is a smaller size, used for the warning lights, PRND32L illumination (in gauge cluster, not shifter), and dash button lighting (CDL, defrost...) These are T4/T4.2 size. I ordered 20 for $5.59 shipped and used a majority of them. I also kept the stock bulbs for the warning lights and didn't install new ones because a blue check engine light wouldn't get my attention as easily . These came with the twist in plug connector already installed.
Full headline from eBay item:
20 xUltra Blue T4 T4.2 Neo Wedge 1-SMD LED Cluster Instrument Dash Climate Bulbs

View attachment 1415532

I haven't been able to find the third size yet, found in the shifter and climate control, possibly a few dash buttons. I'll post it once I figure it out.

Quick note on installation: the polarity on these does matter, and there is no way to check positive and negative except for trial and error. I recommend taking off surrounding plastic dash pieces and installing all of the bulbs you plan on replacing at the same time. Plug it in without fastening anything down, turn it on, and note which sections are not illuminated, run through the gears as well. Unplug the cluster, and for the bulbs that didn't illuminate, twist out the connector and rotate it 180 degrees. Plug the cluster back in, fix anything you missed, and reassemble the dash.

Hope this helps, any other questions, feel free to ask!

The HVAC bulbs are type 74 superbrightleds has the equivalent led for .95 i swapped mine out last weekend after having the dash apart its 14 v 1,4w bulb

 

[jasonc]

Haven't updated this in a while, but I've been staying really busy with this truck.

To start with, I got the transfer case swapped out, and the new one seems to be doing just fine. Getting it in wasn't too bad, but I did have to remove the transmission support and drop the drivetrain down a few extra inches to gain access to the top transfer case bolts. The electrical connections didn't want to go together at first, so I had a friend help me squeeze them into place.

I also finally got rid of that plastic tank radiator, and put in a TIG welded full aluminum radiator.

With this in and taken care of, I thought my coolant leaking was finally done with. I was very wrong.

Another split hose! After this, I went through the entire cooling system and replaced anything that wasn't metal. So far, no more leaks... knock on wood.

 

[jasonc]

With everything leak free and good to go, I could finally put some miles on it. When I was cruising around, I hit 300,000!

The trip odometer shows how many miles were on the engine, I'm currently over 400 now. I can't tell you how awesome it is to watch all those zeroes roll over, pretty cool experience.

I'll need to detail it sometime, but it's looking pretty good right now.

 

[jasonc]

After I got everything mechanically running smooth, I could finally get back to the audio update I had started.

As I previously said, this truck did not have front door speakers, and cutting out the interior door panel to perfectly line up with the hole in the door proved to be extremely difficult. After I cut a giant hole in the door, I realized my Rockford Fosgate speakers were very deep, and they wouldn't fit. I picked up some shallow Pioneer speakers, nothing special, but they fit. I got everything trimmed up and installed tonight, including new speaker wire (one head unit later, figured out there was a short in one of the stock wires).

Mounting the speaker grille was also more difficult than I had thought, and after buying countless nutserts, U nuts, and bolts of all widths and lengths, everything seems to be staying together.

I swapped out the Rockford Fosgate 3 way I had in the factory sub location for a DS18 mid, and I think this will probably be the setup I'll stick with. Still toying around with the idea of adding tweeters as well, but that can wait.

I'm still not quite sure where I'll mount both amps, but for now I'm planning on screwing them into the passenger side of my drawers/sub box.

 

[jasonc]

Lucky for me, this truck hasn't needed a whole lot over the last several days. I've just been driving around town so far, but I finally got to test out the 4 low tonight. I'm glad to say the trip went just as expected!

 

[jasonc]

Well back to more coolant leaks...

I was in the store after a short drive, and when I came out I found two small drops of coolant under the front of the truck. I slowly drove back to my house, and dug through the front of the engine looking over the hoses, and ended up just swapping the bypass hose. I drove it around some more, and found a few more drops...

Turns out the temperature sender had backed out of the lower thermostat housing somehow, and that's where my leak was. After spending hours trying to get a wrench on the two brass fittings, I just gave up and took everything apart. I had to take off the second alternator, accessory belt, upper radiator hose, the thermostat and housing. In the end, I got everything tightened down and new gaskets installed, and it appears to be holding.

The next order of business was to get rid of my recapped tires. I found some 17" FJ/4Runner wheels for a good price, and picked them up. Wheels were in perfect condition, but they had the stock road tires still on them. One trip later, I knew I needed something else. I somehow managed to find some used Duratracs for next to nothing, in a 315/70/17... wasn't sure if I could deal with the power loss, but it turns out the cam and higher CR really do make a difference. So far so good, and one brief wheeling trip later, I can officially say I'm not going back to 33s. They look pretty mean, too.

 

[jasonc]

Just washed it and geez does it look good

I'm currently debating on vinyl wrapping it, we just wrapped a friend's car and it turned out great. Although the paint isn't terrible, a change of color might be nice.