Desmogging an '84 2F (1 Viewer)

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May 10, 2005
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Location
Calgary, Alberta
My '78 has been burning oil ever since I swamped the thing couple of years ago, and lately it has started making a faint knocking sound at higher revs.

So, I found a good running, well maintained, california 2F out of an '84 60 series. It must have a mile or two of vacuum lines on it. It also has a s*** load of junk related to the exhaust system.

It's all going to be removed.

It looks pretty straight forward, and I'll just leave what ever lines are on my current engine. I'm going to reuse my manifolds and carb.

But i may have a few questions over the next couple of weeks.
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Where to start?
Took off the 4-speed and split case. It came with the wiring harness as well.
Then I worked on the funny box on the DS side that is under and connected to the exhaust manifold.

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This is just wrong. What were they thinking?

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FWIW - I purchased an '86 FJ60 2F to rebuild and install in my desmogged '77 FJ40.

'86 2F Engine
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The final product:
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ACC - Engine installation.jpg


There are only two vacuum lines on mine. One from the vacuum advance on my Trollhole Dizzy to the EGR Cut Port on my base of my OEM '77 Aisan carb. The other is from my choke breaker to manifold vacuum.....The vacuum hose spaghetti/smog mess is now residing in Cali.
 
How do you like the Trollhole dizzy? There is quite a difference between the '78 (first pic) and the '84. the '84 has two vavuum lines coming off it and rhe '78 has only one. I imagine that the shaft is the same, making them interchangable.

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About 2 years with the TH dizzy, and no worries. I have the FJ60 big cap dizzy and coil pack should I need them.
 
Kevin--Hope its coming together for you. Joe
 
Kevin

Do a couple of searches in the 60 forum. @FJ40Jim has covered this question hundreds of times, literally.
 
Kevin, just use the '84 longblock with WP, fan, oil cooler, dressing it with the '78 carb, manifolds, dissy, fuel pump, BH, engine mounts, alternator...

If the air cleaner is mounted on top of the VC, then swap on the 78 VC & air cleaner.
If air cleaner is mounted on head bolts, then continue using 84 VC, swap on 78 air cleaner.
 
Here I am searching and it leads to my own thread.

The front engine mounts aren't lining up with holes on the frame perch. It seems that the '84 mounts are about 1/2" wider over all. Just slightly too wide to line up with the slotted holes in the frame perches. So I'll use the mounts off the "78 engine. Thanks Jim.


I also had to to remove the PS mounted alternator. It hit the battery, which is in the stock position. There is also a non-stock bracket type thing just behind the alternator bracket. Not sure what it is used for.


The hard part is done now, just putting the rad etc. back on the new engine.

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Alternator is supposed to sit on TOP of the cradle, not under it. You think you're in Europe or something?:p

Seriously, never heard of anyone having an issue with alt cradle/ battery clearance...with the alternator IN the cradle.

Hth

Mark
 
I see.
I think the PO had something else above the alternator, AC maybe. Maybe Joe will chime in again and say for sure if the alt came out of the 60 that way.

And the European way is to hide the accessories somewhere that only people with small hands and several wrists in each arm can work them.
 
The engine mount problem is not the year. Its 40 vs 60.

The pictured alternator cradle is leftover from an aftermarket AC setup. The aluminum cradle used the stock alternator hung underneath and a Sankyo? AC compressor on top. It fits well in a FJ60 body.

Use the FJ45 alternator & bracket.
 
Thanks again Jim.
I put the old alternator bracket on the new block, DS, and neither one of the belts, old or new fit. The belt off the '84 motor is too long and the belt off the "78 is too short. No big deal, but why. Are the crank or water pump pulleys bigger on the "84 motor?

Here are pics of the motor mounts the first ones are the DS, with the one marked 17 off the 45, and the longer PS ones with the #12 on the 45 mount. Almost identical, but that 1/4-1/2 difference between the makes all the difference. Ha, there is a wife joke in there somewhere.
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Yes, the WP pulley is slightly bigger on the clutch fan equipped 84 2F. To keep it totally stock, use the 78 WP & fan & pulley.
If it was me, I would use the 84 WP, clutch fan, pulley & oil cooler because it's all an improvement. You'll have to futz around buying & returning a few belts to get the right size.
 
Is there any advantage you get with the 60 dizzy? I just hauled my old 78 dizzy out and it turns out the vacuum advance is seized. It's soaking in penetrating fluid right now, but I have a perfectly good 60 dizzy. I'd need a different coil I guess.

In the picture you can see that the cap and outside of the housing are covered in muddy residue. I sunk the truck in really muddy water hole last year and it sat there for about 20 minutes with water almost up to the door windows. So the dizzy was under water the hole time. Although the dizzy has had moisture inside, the seal under the cap kept any of the muddy water from getting in. That's why we drive a cruiser.
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Yes, the WP pulley is slightly bigger on the clutch fan equipped 84 2F. To keep it totally stock, use the 78 WP & fan & pulley.
If it was me, I would use the 84 WP, clutch fan, pulley & oil cooler because it's all an improvement. You'll have to futz around buying & returning a few belts to get the right size.

For posterity, the 60 belt is 445mm and the 40 belt is 420mm. I ordered a 435mm. We'll see on Tuesday if it is right..
 
Next problem.
The clutch fan on the '84 is around 18" diameter. The opening in the shroud is about the same. It will not fit.

I have the rad in without the shroud. Will that be a problem?
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First, test the dissy vac advancer to be sure it holds vacuum. If it's good, then try to get both vac & mechanical advance working freely and use the complete 1978 electronic ignition system.
If the 78 dissy can't be salvaged, the 84 dissy can be used.

Not sure on the fan, usually the 81-later blade fits in the clutched 77-later shroud. Maybe get a later US spec shroud, or cut the shroud so the hole is 1" bigger all around, or try running without a shroud in your cool northern climate.
 

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