2LTE Cylinder Head replacement in LJ78 Prado

[Rummat81]

Update: the pics are located now @ http://flickr.com/photos/9842546@N07/sets/

Hi,
This thread will document the procedure to replace the Cylinder Head on my LJ78. I will be replacing timing components and cooling system components. i will also be installing extra guages like pyromemters and coolant temp.
I am an amateur home mechanic, therefore this writeup will be in the form of i telling you about my progress w/ pics and then asking some questions about the next stage to be tackled.
To know how i got there, please visit
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=110333


So here it goes.
Ali.

 

[Rummat81]

First 2 Days of prograss Sat and Sunday 16-17 Sep

Hello,
On the 16th of Sep I took off the Following.


1. Battery: held by 3 12mm bolts.
2. Air cleaner assembly. held by 2-3 12mm nuts/bolts, along with screw type pipe tightners.
3. Metal Air pipe w/ the EFI TURBO sign held on my a couple of 12 mm nuts. There are some Vaccum lines and Hoses attached. i marked them with red tape and writing on the red tape.
4. Removed 2 splash plates under the radiator.
5. Drained the radiator using the white plastic Drain cock.
6. unattached the transmission lines feeding into the radiator.
7. removed the Top Rad hose along with Lower Rad hose.
8. Removed 4 nuts holding the Fan clutch assembly to the water pump pulley.
9. Removed the 4 bolts holding the Fan shroud and brought out Fan and shroud together.
10. Removed the Hood.
11. Removed the Torbo oil return line, it is held on by screw type fastners.

Did not have any Camera then, so no pics for this day.

Questions:
1. What does the engine coolant drain cock look like?
2. What is the best way to remove the crank pulley Bolt? Put tranny in D and 4L.
3. Where is the fuel cutoff switch/connector, so that if i crank the engine it is not supplied with fuel.

thanks.

 

[Rummat81]

Sunday 17 Sep progress

Hi,
Today i removed
1. Turbo. First remove 2 - 17 mm bolts that hold the exhaust pipe bracket to the frame so that you can move the pipe.
Remove the 3 pieces of heat shield held by 3 bolts and 1 nut.
Disconnect the rubber hoses feeding the coolant to the turbo.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=ec6bscd.jpg&.src=ph
loosen the 4 nuts to the exhaust manifold.
loosen the 4 nuts holding turbo to the exhaust section.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=578cscd.jpg&.src=ph

Remove the Turbo oil feed line from the engine block. It is a banjo Bolt so be careful. You have to really look down under to see where the pipe is going.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=4d82scd.jpg&.src=ph
The frontmost bolt for the exhaust manifold is behind the AC Bracket ( black in color.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=6169scd.jpg&.src=ph
AC has to be removed first 4-12 mm bolts. Then the bracket can be removed
unbolting 4 17mm bolts. The lower front bolt is tucked in, you really have to look down to locate it.
The bracket
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=5803scd.jpg&.src=ph
After removing the bracket I removed the coolant pipes running along the legth of the engine all the way to the heater. The pipes are welded to brackets and brackets are held down with 4-5 bolts.
and
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3e78scd.jpg&.src=ph
The rubber pipes have to be disconnected from the thermostat.

2. Exhaust to EGR Valve pipe and Egr Valve.
Towards the back of the exhaust there is an 1" thick pipe that goes behind the engine to the EGR valve. i had to remove it forst before i could remove the exhaust. I loosened the top 12mm nut , but the lower one was acessible only from below. So i had to use to creeper.
After removing the nuts, come to the intake side and remove the EGR pipe by removing 4 12mm bolts. the tranny dipstick top bracket will come off.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=e683scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3202scd.jpg&.src=ph
Loosen the 3 bolts for the EGR valve and another bracket will come off as well.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=bc36scd.jpg&.src=ph
The EGR valve and exhaust pipe should comeout as a single assembly, u have to climb on top of the engine to wiggle the pipe through.
Removing the exhaust manifold is just a matter of unbolting the 8 nuts.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=59d9scd.jpg&.src=ph
Towards the days end, i labelled some of the electrical, coolant the vaccum connections.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=8f39scd.jpg&.src=ph

That was all for the Day.

Questions:
1. How do I remove the Cam gear. Will the 3-pronged grabber with a center screw type puller work.
2. How do i remove the fuel lines from the pump to the injectors, is there special precaution / type og wrench recommended
3. Do i need to loosen/remove the fuel pump to remove the injector lines or the intake manifold. i want to avoid dealing with the injector pump as much as possible.

P.S. Inline photos somehow did not seem to work therefore, i decided to provide links to the photos instead.
Thank you.

 

[light_duty]

Ali,

There are a couple of ways to remove the crank pulley. I doubt putting the truck in gear will do it. You need a really solid brace to keep the crank from moving.

What I did was use two pieces of cold-rolled bar stock (flat), bolted together at one end, with hole for bolts at the other, so it forms kind of a V shape. The steel pieces were about 12-14 inches long. The open end of the V is bolted to the threads on the crank pulley (i don't know the thread pitch, but my crank puller kit had the correct bolts). The closed end of the "V" rests against the frame rails and stops the crank from turning as you torque on the crank bolt.

It's kind of a mickey-mouse way to do it, but it worked for me. Apparently you can also use the A/C pump mounting bracket in much the same fashion, as it's a rather large, strong casting with suitable holes for bolting it to the pulley while still providing access to the crank bolt.

Also, why would you need to crank your engine over while it's apart? if you need to move it, just move it by hand. Anyway, if there is a fuel cutoff, I don't know where it is.

Great thread so far! I'm sure others will find it helpful.

Also, I think if I were to do this repair again, I would leave the turbo and exhaust manifold together, and remove the exhaust studs from the head, and just kind of bend the exhaust assembly out of the way. But your way is fine too.

Robin

 

[crushers]

put the socket on a breaker bar, place breaker bar on frame and crank the engine once... done.

 

[crushers]

so the dealer is not warrantying the head?

 

[Rummat81]

Monday 18 Sep progress

Third Day's journal Entry.
I did not have a crack pulley remover, so went to crappy tire and bought 2 types of pullers. After i got home, found out that could not get the pulley out w/o first taking out the radiator, so after using 1.5 foot of extensions and those socket U-joint thingies, i removed the 2 bolts and 2 nuts holding the radiator.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=b39bscd.jpg
Lost 1 bolt in a crevice. Used the three Jaw puller in combination with the Pulley bolt as the screw in the center was not long enough. Needed to unbolt the pulley bolt first and screw the puller bolt. Did it a couple of times and pulley was loosened.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=26b3scd.jpg
My timing cover has 1 bolt missing. removed it and voila!. Rotated the water pump and heard slushing noises. need to search for engine drain cock. found it halfway through the engine length. It is a nickle colored filling screwed onto the engine with a bolt. It is that bronze colored thing with a circle stamped on the laft side cylinder blok. Drained coolant and removed the Water pump.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=6914scd.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=fe29scd.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=1262scd.jpg
the inside of the pump and coolant body looked quite clean with just a little bit of black material compared to some other pictures of pumps from australia.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=ef78scd.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=295ascd.jpg
Called it a day,
In the next couple of days i hope to take the intake manifold and timing components off.

 

[Rummat81]

Fuel systems Questions

1. How do i remove the fuel lines from the pump to the injectors, is there special precaution / type of wrench recommended? 2. Do i need to loosen/remove the fuel pump to remove the injector lines or the intake manifold. i want to avoid dealing with the injector pump as much as possible.

 

[1990 LJ78]

Ali can not get to any of the links you supply in your posts..
I can get to the link in your signature...

 

[light_duty]

Ali, no need to touch the injection pump at all. Just loosen the fuel lines at either end - I think they are 17 mm nut. Just crack them and they should spin off easily. The tricky one is the line at the very back of the IP, closest to the block. It's tricky getting in there with a wrench. Just make that one is the last one you take off and the first one you put back on. No gaskets on anything on these fuel lines.

Robin

 

[light_duty]

Oh yeah, and get everything lined up at #1 TDC before taking the timing belt off.

 

[Rummat81]

hi,
i have tried to fix the links to photos.
can someone verify that they work?
thank you.

 

[Rummat81]

Disassebly complete

Sep 20, 2006.

Today i was able to disassemble the components completely.
I lined up the timing marks for crankshaft, fuel pump and camshaft pulley. bringing the 1st piston to TDC.
I started by loosening the center bolt for the tensioner and removing the timing belt. i used the crappy tire screw type pulley remover this time to remove the camshaft pulley.
I thing to take care of. The bolt holes in this engine are even in number i.e. 4 for crackshaft and 2 for camshaft. They will line up perpendicular or horizontal to each other. The remover tools available are mostly for American cars that probably have odd numbered holes and they are positioned at a 60' angle to each other. Get the one that fit your applications. I was very careful and slow to do this. But i would never opt for american spec. as they donot center properly and can damage your engine components.
i labelled some electrical and vac hoses.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=b620scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=70f5scd.jpg&.src=ph

I loosened the nuts for fuel lines and also the 2 holder nuts for front and back lines. Removing them is pretty easy.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=ba3cscd.jpg&.src=ph
Removed the throttle body and labelled some more pipes and hoses.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=1e2bscd.jpg&.src=ph
Removed the glow plug resistor nut and the black plastic plugs on glow plug tops to remove the "bridge"
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=a4f7scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=1613scd.jpg&.src=ph
They are faily loose anyways. Tried a flat screw driver and broke one's top. Use 9 mm socket here.
Onto the intake manifold remove 8 bolts and nuts
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=e842scd.jpg&.src=ph
Tried removing it and found that there is another sendor attached at the very botton. had to loosen that using a 21 or 15/16" wrench http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3555scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=c65bscd.jpg&.src=ph
There is a very small 10mm nut at the bottom of the whole setup. One has to loosen that too to remove the bigger nut up top.
Here is what intake looks like
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=2f3fscd.jpg&.src=ph
and what was in the number 4 intake pipe
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=a7e6scd.jpg&.src=ph
Full of Gunk/oily stuff. The EGR entry point was very bad as well. i need to clean it thorougly and block the EGR.
Just the Cylinder head remained now
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=bf61scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=8377scd.jpg&.src=ph
There are 18 head bolts in total, 14 of 1 type and 4 of another. The difference is in the length. The head bolts are 14mm. Lots of pulling and sweating involved to get all of them out. I was able to stand in the engine bay and work on it.
Here are the bolts
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=f4fdscd.jpg&.src=ph
and the removed head
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3801scd.jpg&.src=ph
Wohooooo! Got my dad to help me remove it.
I taped up the injector top ends.
Here is the engine bay
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=a1b5scd.jpg&.src=ph

As suspected there were cracks in cylinder 2,3 and 4.
#4 http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3527scd.jpg
#3 http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=1fcbscd.jpg
#2 http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3ea1scd.jpg
#1 http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=b1e7scd.jpg&.src=ph
All of em' bad ones
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=cf6fscd.jpg

Removed the fuel line bridge from all the injectors tops.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=c42fscd.jpg

removed the injectors
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=e2aescd.jpg
and taped them all up in paper cloth
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=2db9scd.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=b4b9scd.jpg

New Head.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=91cescd.jpg
What a beauty!
Some new parts
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=d9descd.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=b3a9scd.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=ae30scd.jpg

and Finally a shot of Me.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3001scd.jpg

Today Morning, I got the rediator back from the shop that cleaned and a small header leak repair.
And i dropped off the old and the new head to a diesel machine shop. Hopefully they can finish the work by friday evening and we can reassemble it on the weekend.
In the mean time i have lots of cleaning to do.

Thanks.
Ali.

 

[bkfj40]

great thread....

hopefully, I will never need this info, but you never know with the 2LT


bk

 

[Island Moose]

Ali, good on you for being brave enough to tackle this. Your photos will really help putting it all back together. Go slow like a surgeon, triple check everything as you go.

 

[Rummat81]

everything installed but wont start

hello,
This weekend I and my cousin were able to install everything. When i put the ignition to ON ( when all the dash lights glow) a smoke came from the positive terminal of the battery for just a while and it smelled as if rubber was burning. We switched the ignition off. We inspected the terminal and it seemed as something has burned but the wires looked OK.
We Checked the Fuses too and they were fine as well.
We tried again and at ignition ON it was fine this time. We could hear a couple of relays clicking. Cranked the engine but wont start. I did prime fuel using the pump at the top of fuel filter. We opened a fuel line and there was a bit of fuel coming thru it.
Looks like it might be a case of air in the lines.
In the mean time i would also like to check the compression with the new head.
Is there someone in Edmonton that can loan me a Diesel Compression tester? Are there any shops that loan that tool. Otherwise if someone can recommend a shop that loans/carries this tool would be great.

If someone has any input about any electrical component to check, please give that too.
There were only 6 electrical connections that were disconnected. Three at the thermostat housing, 1 at the AC compresser, 1 for the throtte positioning sensor and 1 for something that attaches at the very top
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=c749scd.jpg&.src=ph
The blue colored conector below the throttle body.

Need everyones help, Please.
Ali.

 

[light_duty]

Ali, I remember pumping that primer for quite a while - maybe even 70 pumps - not sure. A lot, anyway. You basically have to pump the fuel all the way from the tank back up to the cylinders. Then I had to crank the engine over a fair bit before it finally fired up.

 

[Rummat81]

still having trouble starting

Hello guys,

I have been busy with school assignment and presentation most of this week.
i read some threads on this forum and toyota diesel madness related to purging the fuel system of Air. I today performed the following

1. I took the glowplugs out and cranked the engine. Diesel in the form of vapors came out of all the glow plug holes.
2. I then attached the glowplug system back and unattached the fuel lines from the injectors. Cranked the engine again and diesel was being pumped out of the injection pipes.
3. Attached the injection pipes quickly and cracked the hell out of the engine. I could smell diesel coming out of the tail pipe. but the engine still would not start.

Whenever i use the primer pump it becomes extramely hard after a few pumps.

When the head was not attached. i moved the fuel pump pulley a couple of circles, but when the timing belt was attached, All of the 3 timing marks were lined up. I would think that just the rotation would not be consequential if all the marks line up during assembly.

Should i try using startup fluid?
IF the glow plug system is not attached, should it still start in 20' C weather.
i looked up the fusebox close to the driver;s seat and the diagram lists 7.5 amp glow plug fuse but there was no place for a fuse there. Do not LJ78 have glow plug fuses?

What does the glowplug relay look like. The manual tells me it is on the left side of the engine compartment.

If someone has any insight please let me know. I need help really bad.


thanks all,
ALI.

 

[Previa Diesel]

Reading your last couple of posts I see some of this is superfluous, but anyway...

1. DO NOT use ether or other starting fluids. You can seriously damage the engne.
2. Double check all your fuel line connections for air leaks. Air leaks will cause fuel to drain back to the tank.
3. You may have to seal the fuel tank vent and pressurize the fuel tank with compressed air to push fuel through to the glow plugs. Sometimes the piston on the priming pump leaks. Loosen off the connections at the GPs and pressurize/pump until you get fuel leaking out at the connections.
4. You should definitely be able to start without glow plugs, but you may have to crank it for 10 seconds or more. The books say not more than 30 seconds continuous IIRC.
5. If you did not loosen the bolts holding the IP or otherwise adjust it and you are certain your timing marks are aligned, then timing is not likely to be the problem. Use a mirror to view the marks from 90 degrees to the front face of the engine: square on - when looking down past the grill etc. you are not seeing them squarely as you must.
6. Disconnect your batteries and/or remove a fuse to wipe the memory on the ECU - might be a factor - just a guess and won't cause any harm.

When i put the ignition to ON ( when all the dash lights glow) a smoke came from the positive terminal of the battery for just a while and it smelled as if rubber was burning. We switched the ignition off. We inspected the terminal and it seemed as something has burned but the wires looked OK.

Scary.

Where were you both when the smoke appeared? How much was there? Was the battery misconnected? Did you figure out where exactly the smoke came from? How long was the ignition turned on for?

Good luck and it looks like you're doing a very thorough job.

Have you looked for answers here?

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/index.php

 

[Rummat81]

Some hope Finally

hello guys,

It was the timing. The Cam timing was 180' off. So the fuel was going out of the exhaust valve. When we were matching the timing marks we just looked at the paint marks that the old chap had left. We could not see the notches for the cam Gear and the timing pulley. I was always assuming that my partner knew that they were there.
The small triangle for the crank was always visible.
We fixed up the cam timing, put on the belt. assembled everything, made a couple of revolution with a Rachet and marks line up. and now when we crank, we get blue smoke out of the pipe and the hole that we made for the EGT probe on the turbo housing. I will post pics of that later.
It really seemed that for just an instance that it might fire up. But cranking does take a toll on the battery and it was also getting late at night yesterday. So i put the battery on charger. Tomorrow we will try to fire this thing again. Maybe i will remove the glow plugs and crank to further purge the engine.

As for "previa diesel" question, my cousin was at ignition and i was near the engine bay. the ignition would have been on for about 3-4 seconds before we shut it off. The battery was connected the correct way, cause just after a while we switched it ON again and it was fine with no smoke what-so-ever. The smoke came form a green colored wire that is attached to the positive terminal of the battery.

Just 1 Question. If the injector lines are open at the injector side and we pump the priming pump, should we see fuel being pumped out of the lines. Cause mine gets hard after a few pumps and i didnot see the effects of my pumping towards the injector lines. Any thoughts!

thank you all for contributing to my efforts.
ALI.