2LTE Cylinder Head replacement in LJ78 Prado

[Rummat81]

Started finally last night, would start this morning.

Hello Guys,

Last night we used a little but of starting Fluid during cranking and it finally started, huffing and puffing and having a lot of hiccups. We kept it running for about 5 Min before we had to shut it down. It settled into idle but would stutter when throttle would be applied.
After about 40 Min we tried to start it again! No Luck. Used the fluid again and it started with a little stutter. This time we kept it running and the stuttering finished when we would give it throttle. Seemed like air had been purged from the system. We waited for the temp needle to rise and took it for a drive around the block.
Every thing was nice and smooth, engine was accelarating as it should, turbo spooled up ( green light came on when driving), came back and checked for any leaks. kept an eye on the temp and oil pressure. With the old head it would be overheating by now. Not the case this time.
No noticeable smoke as well. We parked it in the garage and called it a night.

This morning I wanted to purge the coolant system and circulate the coolant throughout the system( heater core etc) using the method on the AllHead site. Tried to start it! No luck. Cranking doesnot work. It was 10-12'C in the Garage.

1. Air is leaking back into the fuel system.
I donot have access to an air compressor, so i cannot use the pressure the return line method.

The vehicle used to start fine before i pulled the head. I didnot touch the fuel pump at all. The fuel system connections that i took apart were.
1 Injector lines,
2 injectors,
3 fuel pipe assembly that runs among the injectors and the rubber pipe that attaches the fuel pipe assembly to the fuel pump.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat...cd.jpg&.src=ph
you can see the rubber pipe coming out of the left most injector to the pump.

During this project i had to remove the filter bracket the put the filter on its side to create room. the pipe conections to and from the filter were not loosened, just the whole filter assembly was put aside.

What is your diagnosis guys, and where should i start.
Thank you,
Ali.

 

[Rummat81]

glow plugs shot

Hi,
After spending 40 min on searching for clues, i decided to check my glow plugs.

looks like 2 ot of 4 are dead. Let me tell u guys the procedure i followed.

i removed the bus bar connecting all the plugs.

I switched the ohmmeter to the lowest mark at value 200. the meter showed a value of 1.
when i connected the red wire to the tip of th glowplug and the black to ground, for 2 of those i got reading of b/w 2 and 3.

for the remaining 2 there was no change on the meter value.

If the above process is correct please let me know and i will get new glow plugs.

Also can someone tell me what color are the glow plug relays, i have a few connectors on the left side of the engine bay. Are they grey in color? do i check them with ignition on ON position, or the key has to be out.
thank you,
ALI.

 

[Rummat81]

pyro probe, glow plug and coolant sensor pics

Hi Guys,
On Oct 4th i got myself 4 new glow plugs part # 19850-54090 from 4wd auto as well as a terrain tamer air filter.
here is a shot of the old and new glow plugs.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=b456re2.jpg&.src=ph
vs
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=a91fre2.jpg&.src=ph

Here is the old and new Air filter
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=9809re2.jpg&.src=ph
and
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=6ac3re2.jpg&.src=ph

Here is what i intend to do for the coolant gauge
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=294bre2.jpg&.src=ph
It is a brass 3/8" T fitting that can be screwed onto th hole with the green tape in the picture
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=aca7re2.jpg&.src=ph

The autometer sender unit is 1/8" so i needed a 1/8" female-3/8" male coupler. that is the one at the bottom. I will be using teflon tape rated for petroleum products unless anyone has any objections.
while i was at can tire, i got myself a pair of round sideview convex mirrors.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=b2c3re2.jpg&.src=ph

One significant discovery that i found was, looks like this vehicle came with a factory remote starter. the module is located towards the left foot of the driver behind the carpet. it should be about 5x4x1 inch. I forgot to take pics of that. the wiring looks facory with the connectors top-notch. i will take some pics and post them in a different thread.
It was getting tired and my cousing was late from work. I wanted to check the super glow system before i did any cranking. so i decided to leave it to the next day.
thank you all for following.
Ali.

 

[NiftyNev]

Here is what i intend to do for the coolant gauge
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=294bre2.jpg&.src=ph
It is a brass 3/8" T fitting that can be screwed onto th hole with the green tape in the picture
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=aca7re2.jpg&.src=ph

The autometer sender unit is 1/8" so i needed a 1/8" female-3/8" male coupler. that is the one at the bottom. I will be using teflon tape rated for petroleum products unless anyone has any objections.

I wouldn't install the temperature sender that way. It need to be in the coolant flow to be accurate. Do you have the extra port on the thermostat housing toward the front which has a plug in it. If you do then use this position.

Also note that the thread type needed will be metric in the housing and NPT for the gauge, so you will need a M16 X 1/8NPT. I think the plug is M16 X 1.5pitch. Another option is drill the plug and tap 1/8NPT. Your BSP fittings will not be suitable. 1/8 BSP is close in TPI to a 1/8NPT fitting but not tapered.

EQUUS METRIC ADAPTER SET #6848

Available here - http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductListSimple.aspx?Category=3340

Nev

EDIT: Just saw the pic with the sender installed in the adapter so ignore the above if the info I gave is not correct.

 

[light_duty]

Yeah, Ali. I simply dumped the factory sensor and plugged the mechanical gauge into its spot on the filler neck. No point in running two temp gauges. As Nev says, you'll get a better reading that way.

Robin

 

[Rummat81]

running on its own power

Hello guys,
hope u had a nice thanks giving holiday,

This long weekend, i was able to figure out what was wrong with the glow plug system, and we fixed that.
Because of the wrong sequence of putting the isolators at the glow plug bus bar, i had grounded the connection and fried one of the relay #1. Hence the mention of smoke in one of the posts above.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3d00scd.jpg&.src=ph
this is the burned wire taken out of the connector.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=6a7dscd.jpg&.src=ph
We got rid of the factory connector altogether and made our own.
It was quite a bit to sift through all of the wires and check for closed connection.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=d644scd.jpg&.src=ph
Here is my cousin taking off the electrical tubing and tape.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=2295scd.jpg&.src=ph
Here is another one
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=e6b4scd.jpg&.src=ph

We sealed the connections with some dielectric grease, thick sticky tape and then some electrical tape.
After plugging in everything, the car started with a couple of cranks and idled nicely after purging the air from the injector lines.( had to take them off to look at the resistor, it was alright).

So now i have to install the gauges, DRL kit and the remote starter that i bought.

P.S. here is a shot of the remote starter that came with the vehicle, on closer examination it was confirmed that it was after market
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=2b58scd.jpg&.src=ph

laterz,
ALI.

 

[Rummat81]

Turbo Oil feed line leak

OK Guys,

While we were installing the Turbo, the oil feed pipe was bent and a little out of alignment. When we tried to install the banjo Bolt, it would not go in straight and stripped the threads. oil would leak as the pipe was not flush with the oil cooler body.
Our consequent tries to make it work with tape, thread lock and washers made the problem worse and worse.
SO we had take the exhaust side off again, and take off the oil cooler assembly. Here are some pics of the cooler body.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=f86escd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=714escd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=7bc0scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=8629scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=88dcscd.jpg&.src=ph

Here is a pick of the turbo and the pipe that i cut.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=6146scd.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=8d7escd.jpg&.src=ph
Here is the oil feed hole
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=1275scd.jpg&.src=ph

We decided to tap a new thread, get a different fitting and clamp a ruber hose to the turbo oil pipe. I went to Green Line for their great selection of hoses, couplers and fittings. I got a 90' BSP#4 thread fitting with an adjustable orientation as well a rubber gasket for good sealing.
Turbo with the pipe installed.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=2c50scd.jpg&.src=ph
Cooler body with the fitting installed.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=c681scd.jpg&.src=ph
Went to BP machine at Argyll Road and Bob was very helpful in doing the machining and tapping of the thread.
The pipe length was a bit too long so there was some fighting to be done wth the hose to get things to line up, but they were attached eventually.
I used some threadlock on the fitting and the adjustable nut threads to seal everything. Waited 2 hr before i got everything else installed and giving enough time for the thread lock to cure.
Filled it with oil and coolant mix; fired it up and it ran fine with no leaks.
This was installed on friday night. This time i remembered to install the head shield for the exhaust manifold.
On saturday we installed the rest of the bits and pieces. Looks like it is ready for inspection, but before, we have to wire up and install the gauges.

hopefully be on road soon,
Ali.

 

[Rummat81]

initial observations

hello All,

I have been driving the vehicle around the neighbourhood and some back country roads and it has ran fine.
The EGT are b/w 800-1000F at constant throttle and when accelerating reach 1200F. 1400'F when u floor it. The thermocouple is pre-turbo.
The water temp is b/w 190-200'F, seems high, but I have mounted it on the turbo coolant feed tube that goes infront of the T-Belt cover. The connection is before the thermostat and veries as the engine load changes.
The boost guage goes till abt 6-7, although my cousin told me it when higher when i was not looking.
No overheating issues, the stock gauge needle stays below the half mark.
Handles well, all 4wd functionality, hubs, 4H, 4L and rear diff lock engage.
Keep you guys posted as i drive it more.

thanks,
Ali.

 

[light_duty]

Good job on the repair, Ali. Pretty soon you'll be able to tear your eyes away from that temp gauge for extended periods of time! For the record, mine sits right around 200F - that's with a 92C tstat. I'm considering running a 92 in the winter and an 88 in the summer to help keep the engine a little cooler.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to post the pics and details of your job. It will help others who find themselves on the same path.

 

[Rummat81]

Roaring on AB highways

Well guys,
i got my truck inspected and registered on wednesday, been driving everyday to school and back.

I will be posting some introduciton pics in the 70 owners thread.

i would like to thank you all for the tremendous amount of support and advice that i have received. Especially to Robin. Many thanks to by cousin Asim without whom , I would not have been able to complete this project at all. Whose expertise and experience stopped me from breaking and stripping bolts etc.

it has been quite a journey and a lot of learning about the mechanics and electrical system of toyota diesels.

I would like to consider it the end of this thread now.

Thank you all again and hopefully no one else has to go through this pain.
See you around in Alberta.
Ali.

 

[harveya]

Hello guys,
hope u had a nice thanks giving holiday,

This long weekend, i was able to figure out what was wrong with the glow plug system, and we fixed that.
Because of the wrong sequence of putting the isolators at the glow plug bus bar, i had grounded the connection and fried one of the relay #1. Hence the mention of smoke in one of the posts above.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=3d00scd.jpg&.src=ph
this is the burned wire taken out of the connector.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=6a7dscd.jpg&.src=ph
We got rid of the factory connector altogether and made our own.
It was quite a bit to sift through all of the wires and check for closed connection.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=d644scd.jpg&.src=ph
Here is my cousin taking off the electrical tubing and tape.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=2295scd.jpg&.src=ph
Here is another one
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=e6b4scd.jpg&.src=ph

We sealed the connections with some dielectric grease, thick sticky tape and then some electrical tape.
After plugging in everything, the car started with a couple of cranks and idled nicely after purging the air from the injector lines.( had to take them off to look at the resistor, it was alright).

So now i have to install the gauges, DRL kit and the remote starter that i bought.

P.S. here is a shot of the remote starter that came with the vehicle, on closer examination it was confirmed that it was after market
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rummat_fast/detail?.dir=d3e9scd&.dnm=2b58scd.jpg&.src=ph

laterz,
ALI.

Heh Ali.

Don't feel too bad about wiring the Bus bar for the glow plugs the wrong way round. It's easy to do, very common and I think is about the only reason that Toyota sell so many of the 80 amp fuses.

 

[everbret]

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd ask a question about this.

Recently I have been looking into the 5L engine conversion from at 2L-TE. In some circumstances, people who have turboed their 5L's after conversion have gotten up to 147hp. The 2L-TE is rated at 98hp.

I was just wondering whether one should expect the same increase in power from solely replacing the cylinder head, or would one have to replace the whole engine to get the power? In other words, where does the power in the engine come from? Is it the cylinder head?

The only reason I ask is because I think I've found a place where I could get an incomplete 5L engine and was wondering if it would just be easier to replace the cylinder head to get the same performance.

Cheers

 

[jb BJ73]

Not that much difference in the head, although the 5L heads are supposed to be more reliable. If you swapped the block and head that would probably give you a decent power increase. Going from 2.4l turbo to 3l with turbo would make a difference

 

[crushers]

how much is a 5L ... might be better to swap the engine??

 

[everbret]

Well, I think I may have found a 5L engine with just the cylinder head and block for $1100 with freight to Canada. According to the Australian websites, most of the stuff on the 2L-TE will fit directly onto the 5L block, except for the starter. Also, the 5L doesn't have a crankshaft position sensor, so one needs to apparently convert things over to a manual 5L pump, or rig up a crankshaft position sensor and use the 2L-TE fuel pump.

The wife is hesitant, of course, as this would be likely a big project for a backyard mechanic like myself. However, if I could pull it off for less than $2000 it might be worth it, as the LJ78 isn't worth much with a 2L-TE engine in it. Currently I'm driving a Hilux Surf with the 1KZ-TE which has way more pep, but I really liked everything in the LJ78 more exept for that darn 2L-TE motor. 147HP sounds like it would do the trick.

Here's a photo of what they apparently have available.