Looking to buy 80 series, question on burning oil

[ematheson]

Good afternoon. I am new to the forum and looking forward to digging through some of the really valuable information on here.

I do have one questions that I was hoping to get answered as quickly as possible since I am going to look at a 94 Cruiser tomorrow and it seems like a solid deal.

The main question I have is the owner mentioned that it went through about a quart of oil every 2-3k miles, but claims this to be normal. Is this true or do I need to be concerned about other possibly serious issues. He stated there are no leaks or drips coming from the vehicle.

It has 218k miles on it, ARB front bumper, seems to be very clean and he says it is in great shape with maintenance records for the past 5 years during which he has owned it. I would be the third owner. It does have the front and rear lockers, towing package, and pretty much every option available on the 94. I am confident I can pick it up for $4900.

Any input on the oil consumption as well as other things to look for are greatly appreciated!!!

Eric

 

[FrankTorres]

Lockers on that 80 is not normal, it's UNIQUE.
Oil consumption is about right.
Congrats on the nice find...

Welcome and let me be the first

 

[bpassmore]

You will find many different opinions on these questions.

First of all, welcome to mud. This is the best forum for discussing these rigs. Second, be wary. Ask if the rig's head-gasket has been replaced. a 94 1FZ with 220k miles is a ticking time bomb. Do the bubble test, and read the FAQs at the top of this forum.

Good luck and get some pics posted.

 

[Ebag333]

The main question I have is the owner mentioned that it went through about a quart of oil every 2-3k miles, but claims this to be normal. Is this true or do I need to be concerned about other possibly serious issues. He stated there are no leaks or drips coming from the vehicle.

Toyota spec is anything less than 1 quart of oil per 1k miles is normal. I go with the "if it ain't drippin', you're fine" theory.

It has 218k miles on it, ARB front bumper, seems to be very clean and he says it is in great shape with maintenance records for the past 5 years during which he has owned it. I would be the third owner. It does have the front and rear lockers, towing package, and pretty much every option available on the 94. I am confident I can pick it up for $4900.

Seems like a good price for it. Check for rust, and take it to a reputable mechanic to have it inspected. Insist on a compression test, and if they can do it a leakdown test. Any mechanic can do a compression test, not all of them are familiar with a leakdown test. The compression is the big one, but you can have decent compression and still have a (slightly) leaky HG, so both tests are ideal.

If the compression test is good, and everything else checks out, I'd snap it up.

Also find out when the front axle was last serviced, and plan on spending about $600 to do it yourself (several grand if you pay someone to do it).

 

[Bryan062087]

I would keep looking. I had a 94 with 250k when it was sold, and it burned ZERO oil. Also, I would not call it a ticking time bomb, lots of people out there are running original head gaskets with over 200k.. A small percentage have issues.

 

[Brentbba]

I own a '94 and usually have to add one quart of oil between 5K oil changes. I've got 198K on the clock and am the only owner of this truck, so I know her well! Sellers comments about the oil consumption are correct.

I'd 2nd the comment about seeing if the head gasket has been done. How about the front birfs? Original or redone?

 

[ematheson]

Thanks for the kind welcomes. This seems like a great forum.

I wont lie, the ticking time bomb comment put a little fear into me. Part of my interest in the truck beyond the fact that I have always loved them, is the reputation of the engine to run strong for many miles. This truck is only going to be used for the random trip to the lake with the canoe on top and some trips up to the mountains here and there. Weekend use only and likely very few miles/year. On that point, I am not looking to get into something that costs me $4900 to buy and another $4900 to keep running every year.

I am not sure the history of the head gasket on the truck. Also not sure about the front axle. I will certainly be looking into this.

While I can handle a fair bit of wrenching myself, my biggest challenge is having a place to do it. Sadly a garage is tough to find in the Charlotte metro area if you dont have 1.5 mill to drop on a new castle.

Eric

 

[ToothDr]

On that point, I am not looking to get into something that costs me $4900 to buy and another $4900 to keep running every year. Eric

These are not cheap trucks to own. Depending on the amount of preventative maintenance already done and the amout that needs to be done you may need to spend some $$ to get the truck up to speed. With some basic mechanical ability and this forum you can tackle quite a bit on the truck.

I've never seen any reliable data on headgasket failure on the FZJ80. You tend to hear about all the failures on this forum and not too much about the trucks with 200,000 + miles with the original headgasket. Headgasket info on this site is skewed toward people reporting failures not those who have had no problems.

Anyway, find an 80 your happy with and let the fun begin

 

[lucidlyseen]

I've never seen any reliable data on headgasket failure on the FZJ80. You tend to hear about all the failures on this forum and not too much about the trucks with 200,000 + miles with the original headgasket. Headgasket info on this site is skewed toward people reporting failures not those who have had no problems.

I would tend to agree with this. I have read on this forum about head gasket failures at 100k and no head gasket failure at 250k+

Also I think on forums you will hear about the failures and not the opposite. There are probably a ton of high mileage LC's out there (not members of this forum) running the original HG.

And (correct me if I'm wrong), but isn't it a certain percentage (small at that) of the engines blowing the HG, not a this will happen for sure type situation?

 

[firetruck41]

I think there is a sort of tip over point, if the HG hasn't failed prematurely (before 100-140k), it isn't prone to fail. Well that's the feeling I have anyway...

Oh, and 1 qt oil per 2-3k miles, is very normal, the (very few) people who reply to these threads and say their 200k+ rigs don't consume a drop of oil, are very lucky and not representative of the norm. That works out to a whoppin' $25 of good quality oil a year (15k mi average), or about $10 of the cheap bargain basement oil.

 

[LINUS]

To address the Headgasket issue - obviously you are seeing it's pretty much the only real major flaw to these motors, so at least you can take comfort in that.

As to those who say "only the problem HG's get discussed" - I disagree. If Mr. Toyota took the time to redesign/update the replacement HG, there must have been compelling numbers of these motors popping the gasket. That's just my opinion, and I don't have a single statistic to back it but if we were such a small group I fail to see why Mr. T took the time to change it. IIRC it's always #6 cylinder to cooling jacket on OE gasket, and that's where it's redesigned. Search it though, I'm going off memory.

You sound like an informed buyer, and once you get the gasket checked (hydrocarbon sniffer in the coolant, oil sample sent in to check for trace coolant) -- you'll be able to make your decision from there.

I personally think that if you are to be the 3rd owner, then the original buyer would have taken excellent care of his $45K SUV (maybe??), and with the 2nd owner keeping records you're far better off than alot of other guys. At least it hasn't had more owners than Hugh Hefner has had playmates.

As for price - I'm clueless, I got mine 7-8 years ago & don't look at the classifieds - I guess that's a good sign.

Worst case scenario, plan to replace the gasket on your own schedule & line up the parts ( & shop if you aren't a DIY type) - do the same level of research you are putting into the initial purchase & you'll come out ahead no matter what happens.

A good sign might be to just see what coolant is in it, and use it as an indicator. I popped my HG within a couple hundred miles of doing a powerflush to get rid of green coolant & switching to Toyota red - IIRC a few others see problems after switching as well. If you're still in Toyota red, you might have a solid HG. Again, just my singular opinion.

There is a lot of peace of mind having the update gasket though - might sound sick, but I'm glad mine popped.

Sorry so long, just have alot to say since I've "been there". It's a dream motor to work on, my favorite so far in life.

Good luck, sounds like a nice one to me.

 

[ematheson]

I sent an email to the seller and got the details below back. It does look like he has kept good track of the maintenance. Any thoughts on this????

Front axles have been done along with front wheel bearings. You will see a bill below for the front axes. 8/04. The front bearings were replaced 3/09. The front axle work is expensive, but should not have to be redone.

Yes, I have all maintenance records since I purchased. Here are details:


8/09: 217,000 miles - $155 - Replace EGR randucer.

6/09: 211,556 miles - $474 - 30K tune up, includes 6 spark plugs, intake cleaner, automatic transmission flush, antifreeze flush, clean brake area rotors and adjust emergency brake. Disc brakes were good and did not need replacing. Since the Land Cruiser is a heavy vehicle (6,600 lbs), it does go through a set of disc for the front about 35-45K. Depends on if you are highway miles or city. By the way, this Land Cruiser is equipmented with ABS brakes and all 4 disc. This was a option in 1994. I have never had any issues with the disc brakes.

5/09: $208,200 miles - $36, Land Cruiser's holds 8 quarts 10w/30. Brakes ok at this check up. I change my own oil from time to time. I change betwee 4,000-5,000 miles with new filter.

3/09: 203,343 miles - $600 - Replaced front bearings/seals, change oil, brake system flush.


1/09: 200,000 - $152 lnstalled new Toyota shocks. The FY80 series had truck shocks, not stuts. I have replaced 2 sets, one set when I purchased in 2005, and 2nd set at 80,000 more. I don't have labor invoice, but it was part of new tires installed (probably $50 for installation).

12/08: 198,625 - $674 Installed 4 Bridestone Dueler Revo AT tires. I have put on Michelen prior to this set. You will get 40,000 per set. Both times, no issues with alignment. I would however, replace my next set with a less aggressive tread. You get a little rougher ride from these AT tires. I would recommend Kumbo's. I have a set on one of my other vehicles, and they are great..and much cheaper than Michelin. Several of my friends have on trucks. Got to Kumbo web siste to see and Bridestone for the tread on the AT. Tire size is 275/70R16. Alignment performed at all tire changes $39.00.

8/08 179,971 miles - $430 Oil changes, front disc pads, new front rotor, R&R 4wd hubs and bearings.

6/08 184,621 miles - $96 Minor tune up, replaced plugs, oil change, brakes 1/2 worn out per Toyota, ok.

3/08 180,736 miles - $394 - Coolant flush, transmission flush, top engine clean, replaced A/C evap and recharged unit. By the way, this is cold air conditioner...I have never had any issues until this. AC part $22, labor $60. This was part of total bill for this visit of $394.

10/07 172,408 miles - $298 Install differential seal and transmission sensor, new power antenna, oil change, state inspection.

6/07 167,304 miles - $381 Install EGR vacuum value, and value assembly.

4/07 162,248 miles - $876 Install 4 Michelin tires LTX and alignment.

5/07 163,948 miles - $1,202 Replace front axle seals, replace disc barkes and resurface rotors, repalce transmission fluid seal from speedmeter sensor.

8/06 147,163 miles - $260 oil change, repair right rear window seal, repalce all fan and air cond belts,

10/05 127,508 miles - $444 Replaced starter

9/05 126,971 miles - $800 Install 4 new Michelin tires, rotation and installed new Toyota shocks.

9/05 126,266 miles - $214 Power steering flush per Toyota requirements. repaired exhaust shield, state inspection, oil change,

8/05 123,246 miles - Major tune up, oil change coolant flust, trans flush.

1/05 109,515 miles $730 ABS warning light, had to repalce rear disc and rotors, cylinder and front brakes.

8/04 96,990 $1,969 - This occured after I purchased the vehicle. Front axle seals, wiper kits and repack front bearing. Replaced both oxy sensors, minor tune up.

7/04 95,936 miles $470 - oil changes, transfer case oil change, automatic flush, coolant flush, spark plugs, top engine clean,



Thanks,

Eric

 

[Brentbba]

Looks very well maintained. Two times on the birfs's tho. Are the seals on the front hubs clean or real greasy? Some is normal.

 

[ematheson]

Looks very well maintained. Two times on the birfs's tho. Are the seals on the front hubs clean or real greasy? Some is normal.

I will certainly get under there and check the grease situation when I get out to see the vehicle. To this point I have just seen pictures. Is there anything else I should look for that would point to issues with the birfs? Noises etc?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[mikesean76]

Thanks for the kind welcomes. This seems like a great forum.

I wont lie, the ticking time bomb comment put a little fear into me. Part of my interest in the truck beyond the fact that I have always loved them, is the reputation of the engine to run strong for many miles. This truck is only going to be used for the random trip to the lake with the canoe on top and some trips up to the mountains here and there. Weekend use only and likely very few miles/year. On that point, I am not looking to get into something that costs me $4900 to buy and another $4900 to keep running every year.

I am not sure the history of the head gasket on the truck. Also not sure about the front axle. I will certainly be looking into this.

While I can handle a fair bit of wrenching myself, my biggest challenge is having a place to do it. Sadly a garage is tough to find in the Charlotte metro area if you dont have 1.5 mill to drop on a new castle.

Eric

Don't be surprised if this becomes a DD for you-even if the plan is just for a family ride for camping. At least it sounds good if you're sellin that to the . If you want a reliable vehicle that you feel safe with the family and if anything goes wrong, for the most part, you wll be able to fix. The higher than average cost for maintenance and gas mileage is small compared to the benefits.
Look through the site and you can find local mud members to help with reputable local garage. The local ONSC page.

Good Luck!

 

[NKP Garage]

If you're really worried about it, do a compression check and make sure all the cylinders are within spec. Also, check thoroughly for leaks. The oil pans and the rear main seal are two very common leak points on these trucks.

 

[ematheson]

I was under the truck today and it really is very clean. I see no signs of oil leaks. The seals on the front hubs have very little grease on them. Clean there as well. All in all the truck seems very solid...

I am torn right now. My father just offered to sell me his 99 Explorer for $1000. I know it has been really well taken care of, and in terms of cost it just makes so much more sense for what I need it for. But it is just such a lame vehicle!!! No off road capability (I am battling internally as to how often I will actually even need this) and none of the appeal the 80 series has to me. It does have the 5 liter V8 so should do decent with a small trailer. It can get the canoe where I need it.

Ahhh... it's a battle of my financially responsible side and the kid inside. Who shall win...

Eric

 

[ematheson]

A couple shots of the hubs... From the Iphone so apologize for the quality.

Eric

 

[Makelo]

That's a no brainer, but then again you are in a Land Cruiser forum
In regards to the oil consumption. I think a 1quart per every oil change is about the norm.

I also freaked out when I realized that my 1FZ was consuming oil , but I did a search in regards to the issue and found out that if you use a thicker oil grade, the consumption will disapear. I used to run Valvoline 10-40W and was consuming a bit of oil. I then changed to Shell Rotella heavy duty application and after 10k no consumption whatsoever.

If our engine still consumes oil even after changing to a higher and thicker grade, you might have either valves or piston ring issues.

Tale signs of burning oil (only know two)
1) Check the exhaust for blue smoke under acceleration
2) tiny bit of oil stains all over your tailgate / rear window

Good luck

 

[Brentbba]

Hubs look fine from those pics.

Exploder - run Forest, run!!! The LC will be a much more reliable truck in the long run!