80 rear under a 62

[shady]

I have bee considering looking for a FZJ80 FF rear to put under my 89 FJ62.

The reason is to eliminate the c-clip, strength of the FF and the disk brakes.

But I have a few questions that when I searched, was not sure of my concerns. I know I will have to cut off all brackets and weld up some spring perches.

1st, I am going to drop the 3rd from my current axle, so the driveshaft should bolt right up.

2nd, will I be able to just connect the brake line, or will some modification be required?

3rd, will I be able to hook up the parking brake?

Lastly, what year 80 do I need to find. Are all 93 and up a FF rear or only with locking diffs. I have to drive several hours, so need to try to be sure I will find what I'm looking for.

Thanks

 

[SteveH]

Pretty sure you need an ABS-equipped '93-97 to get the full floater, and relatively few have locking diffs. The ABS issue only affects a few '93s that may have been available without ABS.

Before drive long distances, have the seller send you a pix of the hub extending from the rear axle (to verify that it's an FF) and a picture of the e-locker actuator, if you are buying an locker-equipped axle. Don't assume the seller knows what he has. Obviously, the semi-floater '91 and '92 axles are not what you want.

I doubt the brake line and parking brake cable will be a bolt-on deal, but I doubt the issues will be insurmountable. Metric brake lines/fittings are readily sold at auto parts stores, and parking brakes should just be a matter of fabbing a cable to connect the various sections.

 

[woytovich]

1st, I am going to drop the 3rd from my current axle, so the driveshaft should bolt right up.

EDIT, this is wrong: I don't think your FJ60 diff will fit in the FF 80 housing.

Is the 80 diff the same ratio as your 60 diff?

Getting a driveshaft modified will be the easiest part of the process...

 

[dallen341]

I have bee considering looking for a FZJ80 FF rear to put under my 89 FJ62.

The reason is to eliminate the c-clip, strength of the FF and the disk brakes.

But I have a few questions that when I searched, was not sure of my concerns. I know I will have to cut off all brackets and weld up some spring perches.

1st, I am going to drop the 3rd from my current axle, so the driveshaft should bolt right up. Yes

2nd, will I be able to just connect the brake line, or will some modification be required? Longer hose from chassis to axle if I recall.

3rd, will I be able to hook up the parking brake? Yes.

Lastly, what year 80 do I need to find. Are all 93 and up a FF rear or only with locking diffs. I have to drive several hours, so need to try to be sure I will find what I'm looking for.

'93 - '97 are full float. May or may not have e-locker. Problem is 80 axle is 5" wider than 60 axle. On my 60 I used a Sky Manufacturing widening kit to widen the front axle 3". I then took a e-locked 80 rear, cut 2" off the short side, cut the e-locket short shaft 2" and used an ARB air locker. Front now matches rear width, I have FF rear with disc brakes and used the 60 e-brake cables so I have an e-brake.

It was a bit of work but works well.

Don

Thanks

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

You 62 3rd will bolt right in.

The 80 housing is wider. This was on my list as well. I have an axel from a JDM HDJ 81 and the plan was to narrow the long side of the housing, order some chromoly 60 FF axel shafts, keep my ARB'd 60 3rd's.

Narrowed 80FF with ARB locker and chromoly axle shafts, disk brakes, and oem e-brake... is as good as it gets IMO!

Unfortunately......I sold my 60 last week.

 

[woytovich]

You 62 3rd will bolt right in.

The 80 housing is wider. This was on my list as well. I have an axel from a JDM HDJ 81 and the plan was to narrow the long side of the housing, order some chromoly 60 FF axel shafts, keep my ARB'd 60 3rd's.

Narrowed 80FF with ARB locker and chromoly axle shafts, disk brakes, and oem e-brake... is as good as it gets IMO!

Unfortunately......I sold my 60 last week.

So does that mean that an 80 electric locked rear diff should be a direct bolt in to a 60/62 rear housing? I didn't think that was the case....

EDIT, this is wrong: Also I was under the impression that chromoly shafts would be a bad idea in the rear of a daily driven truck... no?

 

[MANUCHAO]

1st, I am going to drop the 3rd from my current axle, so the driveshaft should bolt right up.
2nd, will I be able to just connect the brake line, or will some modification be required?
3rd, will I be able to hook up the parking brake?
Lastly, what year 80 do I need to find. Are all 93 and up a FF rear or only with locking diffs. I have to drive several hours, so need to try to be sure I will find what I'm looking for. Thanks

I run a '96 FZJ80 axle on the rear with no locker if your diff are the same ratio the drive shaft should bolt right up... mine did....I do run an ARB locker on the rear...

On the brake lines I did away with the ABS ring and the Load sensing valve...

When you do get the rear axle see if you can get it complete with brake lines and e-brake.. the e-brake is a bit longer but it too bolts right up to the 60's e-brake handle...

Frank

 

[robustbambi]

I swapped a locked 1994 80 axle under my 62 a few days ago. pics here...https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/581380-my-first-toyota-35.html
also on page 36.

The 80 axle may be 5" longer overall than the 62 axle, but its only 3" longer from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, so if you just use a 1.5" wheel spacer on the front (i used spridertrax), you'll be fine. I chose to lengthen the front axle as opposed to shorten the rear axle because i figure a wider truck is more stable on the trail or street, so that would probably be better.

The stock parking brake is too short to reach both bell cranks, you may be able to just add a few inches of cable? but i just used an 80 series parking brake cable. super easy swap.

The brake line T fitting on the 62 are located on the far passenger side of the axle, on an 80, they are a lot more centered. I undid the old brake line coming out of the LSPV and used a bit of spare brake line and routed it onto the rear upper shock mount crossbar thing and attached an extended brake line from that to the 80 series axle. Same thing for the diff breathers, you'll need to lengthen it because its also right in the center of the axle.

Since you're using the stock 62 diff in the 80 housing (yes it will bolt right into the housing) you will not need to modify the rear driveshaft at all. If you were to change your mind and pick up an e locked 80 diff as well, you will need to shorten the drive shaft a couple inches because a locked 80 diff is longer than a stock 62 diff.

If you plan to keep the stock 62 LSPV, you'll need to weld a small bracket onto the new axle for the LSPV "arm" to attach to.

So does that mean that an 80 electric locked rear diff should be a direct bolt in to a 60/62 rear housing? I didn't think that was the case....

Also I was under the impression that chromoly shafts would be a bad idea in the rear of a daily driven truck... no?

for an e locked diff to fit into the front or rear 62 housing, you'll need to swap in 4 longer diff studs to accommodate the locker actuator and grind a little bit in the 9 o'clock position. not hard, just don't grand too much haha.

and i think chromoly "wear" faster so its probably not ideal to have chromoly shafts in the rear of a DD, but probably not too big a deal.

 

[Mace]

Chromoly is only an issue in a semi floater application.

It'e the bearing wear at the axle ends that is the concern.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Chromoly is only an issue in a semi floater application.

It'e the bearing wear at the axle ends that is the concern.

^This.

Also. I think the 80 housings with elockers might be different. Your 62 3rd will bolt into a non locked 80 housing.

Brakes will be a easy as it gets. just figure out the lines and the ebrake cable and you are done. At the very most you might have to adjust the load proportioning valve. It really should be easy.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

1st, I am going to drop the 3rd from my current axle, so the driveshaft should bolt right up.

2nd, will I be able to just connect the brake line, or will some modification be required?

3rd, will I be able to hook up the parking brake?

Lastly, what year 80 do I need to find. Are all 93 and up a FF rear or only with locking diffs. I have to drive several hours, so need to try to be sure I will find what I'm looking for.

Thanks

Your 62 diff will bolt in just fine. I've done it.

You may need a longer soft line from the frame to axle, but everything else is the same.

Use a fzj80 ebrake cable and you're good to go.

You want an axle from any fzj80, 93 iirc and up, locked or not. The locked rear is different in that it has 4 longer diff studs and a notch for the E-locker collar. Swap out the long studs for short studs and that's all you need to do. The notch is covered by the third member and it's gasket.

 

[woytovich]

Chromoly is only an issue in a semi floater application.

It'e the bearing wear at the axle ends that is the concern.

Thanks for the clarification....

 

[woytovich]

I run a '96 FZJ80 axle on the rear ....On the brake lines I did away with the ABS ring and the Load sensing valve... ...

Frank

What was involved in the ABS ring and LSV removal?

 

[shady]

I am aware of the difference in width. I was planning on running spacers up front to get it close.

the reason I will swap the 3rd is I am running 4.88's, so I won't have to re gear the rear.

I will be trying to get the axle from a Pick n, Pull, so they usually don't give up too much info, so was hoping to find the FF rear by year if possible. So it sounds like if they have a 93-97 there is a pretty good chance it's a FF?

Also, what does LSPV stand for?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So it sounds like if they have a 93-97 there is a pretty good chance it's a FF?

Also, what does LSPV stand for?

After 93, all US 80 series rear axles should be FFs. Look for the wheel hub protruding from the wheel. The SF models have no protrusion. Another way to check is by looking at the rear axle from the rear of the truck. If there is a removable differential cover, then it is a SF axle. The FF axles do not have removable differential covers.

LSPV stands for load sensing proportioning valve. It adjusts your brake proportioning based on the distance from axle to frame, which judges your load.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I am aware of the difference in width. I was planning on running spacers up front to get it close.

the reason I will swap the 3rd is I am running 4.88's, so I won't have to re gear the rear.

I will be trying to get the axle from a Pick n, Pull, so they usually don't give up too much info, so was hoping to find the FF rear by year if possible. So it sounds like if they have a 93-97 there is a pretty good chance it's a FF?

Also, what does LSPV stand for?

just run spacers up front. I narrowed the short side to make the whole thing 60" WMS to WMS to keep the same offset as before, but gain 3" of track( on a 55 series). with the deeper 16s tho, it is only a fraction of an inch wider than before. with spacers up front and deeper 16s, you'll be about as wide as you are now, maybe an inch wider- and even front to rear bias(you'll need 1 1/2 spacer for even stevens; 1 3/4 will give you back the half inch of front bias toyota built into the earlier leaf sprung rigs. great swap tho. just clean the housing and plant you leaf hardware where it needs to go...I thought late 60 driveshaft flanges were bolt on to an 80s pinion, but could be wrong. the non locking diffs will swap into the housing no sweat. you could prolly bolt in a coarse spline diff if you made the holes on the third bigger...most cruiser diffs are swappable across the years except the flange patterns may be different. the brake lines and sway bar hook-up as well as shock mounts will all need a bit of ingenuity, but nothing serious. ebrake cable should swap right on- it works the same as the 60s series. I paid 750 for a complete hub to hub elocker with locking diff; don't spend more than that; try to spend less