Anybody ever seen this? What was going to be a quick fuel pump install turned into an oil pan drop.
Fuel Pump FAIL
- Thread starter nmarshall-no
- Start date
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You didn't use the spacer/insulator, did you ... ?
- Thread starter
- #3
oh yes I did, new spacer in fact.
Uh oh! Thats not very good.
Was the spacer the correct thickness?
Was the spacer the correct thickness?
- Thread starter
- #5
and I the fu#K#r was only three months old - still under warranty.
brian
SILVER Star
cheap aftermarket pump.
I thought Kyosan was the good brand?
- Thread starter
- #8
Kyosan pump - OEM manuf. - SOR just doubled the price. If it fails again I'll go electric.
I'm either running a Beck/Arnley or Airtex. Both under $60 on rockauto.com
That could just be one bad unit of the thousands they made
That could just be one bad unit of the thousands they made
Yes, Kyosan is OEM ...
Is your engine rebuilt?
If you used the correct spacer and the engine is stock (there are some earlier 2Fs that do not require the spacer), then could be a bad pump. I had a Kyo that leaked right out of the box.
Spacer part #s
80-10/84 90923-06009 (sub)
10/84- 8/87 90923-06008
Don't know what the diff is.
Is your engine rebuilt?
If you used the correct spacer and the engine is stock (there are some earlier 2Fs that do not require the spacer), then could be a bad pump. I had a Kyo that leaked right out of the box.
Spacer part #s
80-10/84 90923-06009 (sub)
10/84- 8/87 90923-06008
Don't know what the diff is.
- Thread starter
- #11
chalking up to bad luck - engine not a rebuild, 87 fj60, correct spacer and gaskets- I would inspect that arm carefully if you get one look for any cracks or deformities - or just go electric. Word is SOR is putting together packages because of the pump price increase.
If all is good then that's BS it failed so fast - should be warranted, I think. Is the part # on the Kyo box TP-636 ?
can you shoot a pic of the wear side of the big piece?
it looks like the piece still attached to the pump, the very end is deformed, which is aprox the location the arm breaks when not using the spacer.
anychance you still have the old pump to compare the arms?
I forgot to quote, but is the pump 3 months old?
it looks like the piece still attached to the pump, the very end is deformed, which is aprox the location the arm breaks when not using the spacer.
anychance you still have the old pump to compare the arms?
I forgot to quote, but is the pump 3 months old?
Spike- Do you have any specifics about which 2F's do not need the spacers? I'm still reviving an 87 FJ60, and the fuel pump was one of the first parts replaced which was completely varnished. The removed part was a Kyosan that the PO definitely recalls replacing in a friends driveway in the mid 90's. There was no spacer installed and it seemed to do fine for his last 120k miles.
I replaced the Kyosan with an aftermarket from CCOT complete with the spacer, but now the supply just seems to be a little weak. Just his past week I received a new Kyosan and spacer from Onur at American Toyota. Comparing the new to the take-off Kyosan the pump arms are identically shaped with no indication of deformity or unusual wear on the old part. I am now struggling with whether or not to install the spacer using the logic that if not required using it will result in a short stroke or weak pumping action. Does it act more as a thermal and/or vibration isolator? Is there any room to compromise by say trimming the spacer thickness in half?
Thanks-
Jeff
If yours is the stock 87 motor it takes the spacer. It is prolly both for thermal isolation and moving it the proper distance so the pressure on the arm is not too high.
If you leave it out or trim it, you run the risk of having happen what happened to the OP. If the flow is weak, and it's a new pump, I'd look elsewhere in the fuel system.
If you leave it out or trim it, you run the risk of having happen what happened to the OP. If the flow is weak, and it's a new pump, I'd look elsewhere in the fuel system.
Same thing on my 85 22r. The arm will come off. If you can find a bad pump, switch out the arms.
I tig welded mine and it lasted another 10 years.
That is a good brand and made in Japan. Save the pump, as it's still good.
Also, it should have a spacer and two gaskets.
I tig welded mine and it lasted another 10 years.
That is a good brand and made in Japan. Save the pump, as it's still good.
Also, it should have a spacer and two gaskets.
older 2F's up thru '78? had 2 lines on the pump, return came off the carb=no spacer
newer2F's '79 up have 3 lines on the pump return at the pump=needs spacer
if you use a spacer on a pump that doesn't require the spacer the arm will not engage the cam lobe and not pump any gas
if you install a pump that needs a spacer, without the spacer, usually the last 1" or so of the pump arm breaks off. that is from my own experience 20 years ago and also dropping oil pans on other engines and finding a piece in the bottom of the pan.
- Thread starter
- #18
installed from the inside
I photographed the arm from the inside of the block. The original old pump was failing at the seal - misting fuel - when I was replacing the clutch and rear main. Figured I should take care of it - yes all part numbers match as they should. The pump is being covered by SOR- if it wasn't I'd go electric with a block off.
I photographed the arm from the inside of the block. The original old pump was failing at the seal - misting fuel - when I was replacing the clutch and rear main. Figured I should take care of it - yes all part numbers match as they should. The pump is being covered by SOR- if it wasn't I'd go electric with a block off.
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- #19
oh - and that is a clean 160k motor!
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- #20
Update - SOR is covering the pump under the warranty.
