Blown HG or......?

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CruiserStuff

CruiserStuff

Joined
Oct 9, 2008
Threads
94
Messages
1,940
Location
Lake Arrowhead, CA (was), Rocky Top, TN (is)
I recently replaced the radiator with a heavy duty 4 core unit from www.radiatorbarn.com. Before I did, though, the old one sprang a major leak (long story) and I overheated the engine before I could get the rig to the shop.

There's no "chocolate milk" in the oil, but now the radiator overflow bottle is consistently boiling over. I ran the engine with the radiator cap off and can see bubbles coming up periodically. At idle, everything appears okay, but when I drive and put a load on it (up a hill) and pull over and open the hood, the overflow bottle is, well, overflowing. The engine temps are not getting above the first hash mark though.

I've also noticed that when I shut the truck down, there's a small amount of antifreeze running down the bellhousing and dripping on the exhaust pipe (located because of the "hissing" when the liquid hit the hot pipe). Could this be a bad freeze plug?

The engine runs and idles fine and I don't see white smoke coming out the tailpipe or smell antifreeze in the exhaust. Still, I'm thinking head gasket failure (especially with the recent overheating episode), but could there be any other explanation?

Tomorrow, I'll take the truck in for a compression test. I'll post up the numbers when I have them.
 
Exhaust gas bubbles in the cooling system are a pretty good sign of a blown head gasket or a cracked casting.
 
Print off a copy of the little dude in the pic below and hang him on your shop wall while you work on repairs......

He's known to bring good luck........

Looks like your in need of such........
cruiserforcecopy.jpg
 
Should be, post up the ID #s be be sure or just take a gander at the combustion chamber area.....
 
Getting compression test done at noon. Figured I'd go ahead and order up parts now......

Ordered a Remflex FJ7009 exhaust manifold gasket (and will apply a good coat of Copper Coat (per Downey)

Will order an OEM Toyota head gasket from CDan. Might as well get new head bolts from him as well.

What else do I need and what brands do you recommend. Obviously, the list may change (grow) as we determine what exactly is going on in the engine, but whatever you guys can add would be awesome!
 
CruiserStuff said:
Getting compression test done at noon. Figured I'd go ahead and order up parts now......

Ordered a Remflex FJ7009 exhaust manifold gasket (and will apply a good coat of Copper Coat (per Downey)

Will order an OEM Toyota head gasket from CDan. Might as well get new head bolts from him as well.

What else do I need and what brands do you recommend. Obviously, the list may change (grow) as we determine what exactly is going on in the engine, but whatever you guys can add would be awesome!
Click to expand...

Check with irongiant about the copper coat on the Remflex gasket. IIRC he told me to put the gasket on dry, and Downey says to use generous copper coat on an OEM gasket.
 
CruiserStuff said:
Getting compression test done at noon. Figured I'd go ahead and order up parts now......

Ordered a Remflex FJ7009 exhaust manifold gasket (and will apply a good coat of Copper Coat (per Downey)

Will order an OEM Toyota head gasket from CDan. Might as well get new head bolts from him as well.

What else do I need and what brands do you recommend. Obviously, the list may change (grow) as we determine what exactly is going on in the engine, but whatever you guys can add would be awesome!
Click to expand...

Remflex gaskets are put on dry with no sealant.
 
Just got the numbers back from the compression test:

#1 - 115
#2 - 100
#3 - 115
#4 - 110
#5 - 115
#6 - 130

They ran a chemical test and found combustion gases in the coolant. The mechanic said that since the numbers are low (and with no two side-by-side cylinders with the same number) that I probably have a cracked head (or block). What do you guys say?

Anyone have a recommendation for a good machine shop near me....I'm in Lake Arrowhead (near San Bernardino). Better yet, does anyone have a line on a rebuilt 2F head? Thanks.....
 
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Hard to say, either way you have to yank the head. Normally I would say to order a complete valve grind gasket set as it comes with head, exhaust, thermostat, and valve cover gaskets along with new valve guide seals. Since you have the head and exhaust gasket already you may want to also replace the valve cover gasket and install a new thermostat while the head is off.

Whether your current head is toast or rebuildable, also be sure and check the deck of the engine block with a good straight edge. Lots of people over heat 2F's then do a rebuilt head & new gasket only to end up with another head gasket leak because the block surfaced was warped too.
 
Head is coming off. Mark at Mark's Offroad has a rebuilt one on the shelf that will work with my vintage block. :cool: Since time is of the essence with me, I'm going that route. I'll have the head I remove magnafluxed and rebuilt if it isn't cracked.....then I'll have a spare!

MtnTrucker - Thanks for the advice on checking the deck of the block to make sure there's no warpage before I drop the new head on.....good tip....will definitely do that. Would installing 2 head gaskets help if the block is only mildly warped? Does the OEM head gasket get Copper Coat on it or does it install dry?

Looks like I need to pickup a good straightedge and torque wrench....darn. ;)
 
CruiserStuff said:
Head is coming off. Mark at Mark's Offroad has a rebuilt one on the shelf that will work with my vintage block. :cool: Since time is of the essence with me, I'm going that route. I'll have the head I remove magnafluxed and rebuilt if it isn't cracked.....then I'll have a spare!

MtnTrucker - Thanks for the advice on checking the deck of the block to make sure there's no warpage before I drop the new head on.....good tip....will definitely do that. Would installing 2 head gaskets help if the block is only mildly warped? Does the OEM head gasket get Copper Coat on it or does it install dry?

Looks like I need to pickup a good straightedge and torque wrench....darn. ;)
Click to expand...

Two head gaskets are not acceptable, and it goes on dry. Follow the FSM for the removal and torque sequence of the head bolts. Unless you have a future need for a high quality straight edge you will probably want the machine shop to check it for you. They are not cheap.
 
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If you want the correct torque on the headbolts you need to chase all the block threads with a tap to clean them. This tap is off the shelf at mscdirect.com for less than $23. It is listed on page 285. They are 13mm X 1.75.

Headbolt Tap
 
bsevans - thanks for the link on the tap....that is definitely going to be done. My tool box is filling up - I love it! If all the repairs didn't cost $$ and time, I'd be loving it (though I must admit, I really enjoy learning how to do things on the truck).

We got 4-8 inches of snow yesterday and I was able to plow my whole route......made enough $$ for the parts!
 
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