Hood repaint

[lostmarbles]

Thought I'd post this thread on how I've painted my hood in case it is of interest to anyone.

Her'es a photo of the hood as it was before the work began. The faded grey paint is "cold galvanising paint" that I had been slopping everywhere where rust had been beginning to take hold:



And here is the underside. Under the ribbing is "congealed fishoilene". It has performed well in preventing rust for almost 30 years but its black colour makes it look ugly



The hooks were looking a bit "rugged" too. (I'd been pumping them full of grease to prevent internal corrosion and keep them operating smoothly.)

 

[lostmarbles]

The hinges had gotten the "cold galv treatment" too:




As usual all the work was carried out outdoors because my garage is too full of junk



Now anyone who leaves their cruiser outside year round will know that the underneath of the hood gets covered in dew at times. The hidden areas beneath the ribbing are thus particularly prone to rusting. So I decided to cut inspection/access holes in the ribbing and tried to do it in such a way that hood-strength wouldn't be compromised. I used a drill and die grinder to cut these holes:

 

[lostmarbles]

Here's a close-up of my die grinder. This is probably my favourite tool:



And here is the cut-off wheel I used for making the straight cuts:



Here is the sanding drum I used to remove the burrs

 

[lostmarbles]

Here are some of the bits I've cut out. Note the black fishoilene gunge on the sides that were formerly hidden:



Each of those packets contained 5 cut-off wheels and the cost of cutting those holes was around $60 in cutting wheels alone!

Here are the scratchers I used to take the paint off:



This paint-removal work is done in a similar way to Dans (M5driver) except in my case "yours truly" does all the monotonous manual labour

Here's a hole that I couldn't gobble up with a cut-out:

 

[lostmarbles]

So I filled it with weld:



And I had to fill these holes too. The PO had drilled 6 of them in the bonnet in order to fit a perspex wind deflector. Apparantly the first months of my BJs life were spent towing a caravan right around Australia and the wind deflector was used to reduce fuel consumption:



As usual when I concentrate on getting a job done as best I can, avoiding injury seems to have low priority

 

[lostmarbles]

This tab spot-welded to the side of the hood sits on a rubber pad. But it used to sit so heavily that it had worn into the rubber to the point where the securing screw in turn wore into the metal. (It is actually worn right through.)



So I filled that with weld too and bent the lip of the hood (complete with tab) upwards so it will rest more gently on the rubber (which has been replaced).

I welded the full length of the front of the hood to replace the sealant there with weld. (Burnt the sealant out.)



I reckon anyone who restores vehicles would never "break" under torture. I mean the weld spatter was burning real deep but NO WAY was I going to move my hand and risk flawing my weld (any more than it was already going to be):



Yes I do have welding gloves. But it was only a small job!!

 

[lostmarbles]

Hey. How come all that last post was in small type? Only small job was supposed to be written small

Anyway. Here's the outside of the hood almost ready for painting:



And here's the underside:



And here's "Yours Truly" doing the painting. (Nah. Not really. I'd finished by then and was just pretending.)

 

[lostmarbles]

Decided to glue the rubber here cos it was so old and weather-hardened that it wouldn't have sat properly otherwise. I also painted it with tyre-black to make it look like new:



And here's all the "hood hardware" ready for fitting. (Note the stainless fasteners.)



If anyone hasn't seen the hinges before - here is the thread covering them being made:

I'll add this link in a few minutes unless Alzheimer's says different

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/203969-worn-hood-hinges.html

How's that - I remembered

It is important to seal the bolts on the cowl-side of the hinges to prevent rain water dribbling onto your feet. I use neutral-cure silicone for this:

 

[lostmarbles]

Here is the underside of those cowl screws (looking inside the glovebox):



Note that stainless locknuts have been added to prevent easy-removal of those screws and to remove the need for split-washers outside. (I hate split washers.)



That goo squishing out is lanolin. I like to use that as a rust-preventative and antiseize nowadays.

Trouble with outdoor workshops is that rain tends to come at the most inopportune times. (Unless you live in Oz where it usually doesn't come at all.) But at least it enabled me to check the weathertightness of those screws:

 

[lostmarbles]

Here's a photo of the new hinges looking pretty:



And here a photo of the new stainless shield hooks (obtained from CCOT same as the hood hooks):



Speaking of hood hooks:

 

[lostmarbles]

Here's an outside view of the repainted hood:



And here's the underneath:



Oh - Forgot. I filed/sanded the burrs on the stainless hooks and I also drilled these holes to allow trapped water to drain:

 

[lostmarbles]

Here's a photo showing how the windshield (aren't I good not calling it a windscreen?) washer line is routed.

I left that plastic tie thingie in place during paint removal and painting because I knew I'd break it if I tried removing it:



Here it is closer Errr? Maybe not..... Let's say - further away (photos swapped of course):



And here is the hood lock:

 

[lostmarbles]

And here's a closer look:




And here is how the lock has been broken/modified to enable it all to work. (Note the plastic on the hoop to prevent vibration noise.)



And one last photo (Already this thread has so many photos that I need to upgrade my computer to be able to download the page fast enough!!!)



This last one shows why I like POR15 so much. (Hey - Why doesn't the POR15 manufacturer support MUD by advertising on it like RB does? Or is it just that I haven't noticed their advertising?)
This photo was taken inside the glovebox. The primer I applied from within the engine bay has "wicked" right into the seam by capillary action. Then it has expanded as it set to force a little into the glovebox.

 

[hedgehog23]

Great post. the paint came out great. what did you use for hardware , and for paint. dont forget to add to this when you do the front fenders too

did i say great job?

 

[greytandy]

Veerrryyyy nice. If I pay the airfare maybe you can paint my hood.

 

[M5driver]

So I filled it with weld:

As usual when I concentrate on getting a job done as best I can, avoiding injury seems to have low priority

View attachment 215141

Tom,
No blood would mean the job wasn't done right

Nice work!

 

[SD_rdcruzer]

Great job. I like all the photos. I'll need to respray mine in the near future and this gives me some ideas. Thanks

 

[island45]

Great job, great post! And at first I wondered why you were on your back, spraying 'uphill', then I remembered you are south of the equator. Duh.

 

[brooklyn]

Yes, very nice...but,

Now I have to do my hood! I also like your hood lock, where did you get the hardware for that nice trick? I am doing my hard doors as my first step in body work and sanding and painting.

It seems prep is very important - I am now re-doing after being lazy with the prep.

 

[tmarx]

Great work Tom !

It is posts like these that give me some hope..