U-bolt flip w/ GM plates build-up (1 Viewer)

[Full_Throttle]

Greetings,
I thought I would share some of my experiences with the group in regards to doing a U-bolt flip on a spring under FJ-40 with the GM U-bolt plates. When I saw this thread I knew I wanted to try and do this. I really couldn't find a lot of info. other than, "it's easy" or "Three will bolt directly on, one will need some modifcation (PS front). " That may be true for an FJ-55, but it wasn't true for my '71 FJ-40. For those who do not know, I am referring to GM Plates> GMPartsDirect.com. Part # is 15592588 ($65.00 for all 4 after shipping).

The first thing I noticed when my arrived was that the spacing was incorrect for my leaf springs. The holes on the GM plates were 2 5/8" on center and my leaf-springs were 2 3/4" wide. So much for a direct bolt on. To correct this, I had to weld up the holes, then re-drill them on the correct spacing. Let me tell you that is easier said than done.

I am not a a person who has worked with steel alot, so I had to go and buy a 5/8" drill bit ($20.00), and then go and buy a drill bit sharpening tool ($40.00) to fix the drill bit that I messed up because I didn't know I should put oil on it as I drill it to keep it cool.
OK, so next comes the U-bolts themselves. By my measurements, I need 6 SQUARE u-bolts 8" long, and 2 SQUARE u-bolts 9" long. These total $107 with shipping I believe. That brings the total to $172 plus the $60 I spent on tools . My cost got alot closer to the $300 that it costs to buy these pre-made from one of the Cruiser outlets online, but hey, wheres the fun in that ?

Now I needed to make the bottom plate to keep the u-bolts from going anywhere. I started off with a piece of 1/8" flat steel, cut slightly wider than my leaf springs, and about 2 inchs longer than the gm plates.I then welded more steel on the ends to create a place where the u-bolt would sit. It's hard to describe, but a pic says it all,

I then used the origional plate and cut out the center section and welded it into the center of my new plate;

here is the plate ready for paint;

The next step was to bolt it up.
The driver's side was easy.
Pic from the top;

and a pic from underneath;

Yeah, I know, I need to paint under there...I'm getting there .

The driver's side was a bit harder. I had to weld in a spacer to raise the GM plate up on one side due to the short side housing. I also reinforced the inner part of the plate because I gound off quite a bit of the plate trying to get it to align corectly. Others have not had to do this, and I suspect it may be due to skinnier leaf springs...not sure. I did it for piece of mind.

I haven't gotten to the rear yet, but it should be just like the driver's side front. I also decided to only weld up one side of the 5/8" holes and re-drill, using the origional holes on the other side and just offset the alignment by 1/16". I am sure I have left some things out, and my welding skills suck, but I am getting better. Feel free to ask questions, give pointers, flame me, whatever, I can take it

 

[2badfjs]

that turned out to be alot of work.

nice job!

i think i'll buy a kit myself

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

It is a lot of work but if you like doing this kind of thing and you have the tools, it may have more appeal. I think as more people do this and can point out the pitfalls and the preferred methods, this will become a more popular setup.

I did this a couple of months ago. I agree with Full Throttle that the biggest issue is with the spacing on the holes for the square u-bolts. I have Hellcreek springs that are not as wide as stock springs so it wasn’t as much as an issue for me. But I did forget to take the perches into account. They are actually a little wider than the Hellcreek springs. There was some interference here but I was still able to wrestle everything together. My suggestion is to tack a piece of flat bar over the holes and re-drill.

Overall I was very pleased. The 5/8 u-bolts are beefier than stock or 9/16 u-bolts and the plates fits nicely on the axels. I was wheeling pretty hard a couple of weekends ago and actually bent a tie rod, but the spring plates held up great!

It cost me about $150 to do mine for the plates, 5/8 grade 8 u-bolts and stock metal.
Here is a link to my pics; http://new.photos.yahoo.com/jcj_fj80/album/576460762392393270

 

[Fast Eddy]

Why not just widen the holes 1/16" each on the outside edge with a grinder?

 

[tlcruiser66]

That seems like a lot more work than everyone let on that it would be. I was thinking about doing this mod to my 40, but after seeing this I may just go with a premade kit. I'm not one to shy away from fabrication but I still have a lot of other work to do first.
Thanks for the write-up.

Kevin

 

[Full_Throttle]

Why not just widen the holes 1/16" each on the outside edge with a grinder?

I may try that on the rear axle. The problem with that is the gm plates are made such that it is difficult to get to the back side. I don't think a grinder like a 4" will be able to do it. However, my Dremel tool with a cutting wheel just may get in there. Having said that, it is fairly easy to weld the hole and then put it in a drill press and re-drill the hole.....since I now have the correct bit for the job .
Everyone's definition of "easy" is different.....I am a beginner and not afraid to jump into things.....if I can do it, you can also.

Now I have the satisfaction of saying I made these, plus I have some new tools, it's stronger than stock, and I have money left over compared to buying the ones off the shelf. I would say that if you were prepared, this can be done in a weekend no problem.

 

[77TLCFJ40]

Full Throttle,

Thanks for sharing your experience with the GM plates. I feel much better about my purchase and easy install of the MAF U-Bolt Flip Kit.

I understand your frustration with statements like "its easy" or "bolt-on". I experienced the same frustration with the Ford F250 shock towers. They do not directly bolt to existing holes in the frame. New holes must be drilled on both sides of the boxed frame, unless you weld. If you are SUA with 15 x 8 and 3.5" back-spaced wheels and 35 x 12.50 tires, the inside of the tire will rub badly on the shock with minimal flex due to the angle of the F250 towers. I still need to take them off, cut and straighten them, then reweld and reinstall. The proper angle on the drivers side to keep the shock off the steering rod and the tire off the shock has yet to be determined. Despite these issues, I am very happy with the front end flex. I guess most who have installed these towers are SOA with Saginaw PS and wheels with less backspacing??

Good luck and thanks again for sharing your experience.

 

[Bennett]

Drew up a front and rear set for CNC

Just need to convert to G code and cut em.


Shouldnt be much in material

 

[Full_Throttle]

Where were you a month ago...J/K

GREAT job! Those look alot like the ones for sale at one of the online cruiser stores.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Welcome to the 90's!

IIRC, I just enlarged the holes & had a spring shop bend me up some larger dia. leaf spring u-bolts. Since the Skyjackers were a tad narrower than the stock leafs, they fit perfectly. This was prolly 10 yrs. ago. The plate on the right had a built in stabilizer bracket added:

 

[65swb45]

that turned out to be alot of work.

nice job!

i think i'll buy a kit myself

Jim, I thought you were gonna go the lo-profile route with traditional U-bolts outboarded alongside the springs.???

Full_Throttle, I for one VERY MUCH appreciate your real-world take on this mod. I think your solution for the lower plates was interesting, but definitely added to the impression that way too much time was involved in saving the bucks over the store-bought kit. Only the value you place in meeting the challenge of building it yourself can tip that scale.

How many hours would you say the adventure required?

BTW, you haven't mentioned anything about shock provisions on the rear. On my 68, I used the MAF kit w/o shock pin mounting [68 has pins on the axle tube], and their upper plate crushed the shocks.....royally. I had noted a clearance issue potential during install and had stacked an 1/8" of extra washers onto the shock pin, and ground another 1/8" out of the plate, but to no avail.

I ended up welding a piece of angle iron to the lower plate and adding a shock pin to the angle iron that was nestled up alongside the spring. Seemed like a good compromise.

Hth

Mark A.

 

[Full_Throttle]

BTW, you haven't mentioned anything about shock provisions on the rear. On my 68, I used the MAF kit w/o shock pin mounting [68 has pins on the axle tube], and their upper plate crushed the shocks.....royally. I had noted a clearance issue potential during install and had stacked an 1/8" of extra washers onto the shock pin, and ground another 1/8" out of the plate, but to no avail.

I ended up welding a piece of angle iron to the lower plate and adding a shock pin to the angle iron that was nestled up alongside the spring. Seemed like a good compromise.

Hth

Mark A.

I haven't gotten to the rear yet, and I did notice that the rear shocks present a problem. I am not sure I would do this again knowing what I know now....but $130 in savings can buy some more parts....I am someone who has unlimited time and limited funds so this option is still appealing in that regard. I wanted people who have seen this mod to be aware it is not nearly as "bolt on" as it may seem. UNLESS your springs aren't as wide ;p
Whenever I get around to doing the rear, I will post up pics of whatever I decide to do about the shock mounts. I think I will end up with something similar to the solution you describe. Do you have any pics??

 

[Full_Throttle]

The plate on the right had a built in stabilizer bracket added:

I like it!!
I may have to add that to mine..I was wondering where I was going to add that.

 

[1Fine40]

Drew up a front and rear set for CNC

Just need to convert to G code and cut em.


Shouldnt be much in material

Sweet! Would you be willing to make a few more sets??

Cheers!

 

[65swb45]

I haven't gotten to the rear yet, and I did notice that the rear shocks present a problem. I am not sure I would do this again knowing what I know now....but $130 in savings can buy some more parts....I am someone who has unlimited time and limited funds so this option is still appealing in that regard. I wanted people who have seen this mod to be aware it is not nearly as "bolt on" as it may seem. UNLESS your springs aren't as wide ;p
Whenever I get around to doing the rear, I will post up pics of whatever I decide to do about the shock mounts. I think I will end up with something similar to the solution you describe. Do you have any pics??

Here ya go!:

 

[Full_Throttle]

Thanks!!! Thats just what I needed to see.