S10 Blazer rear tank in a '40 (1 Viewer)

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Signal Mountain, TN
Since there has been some discussion of rear tanks lately, I thought some of you would like to see my rear tank I'm installing from a 94 S10 Blazer. LC_Hamma gave me the idea in this thread... https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=76835&highlight=Blazer+tank
Here's the tank mounted from the front:

Blazer+Tank

I used the tank straps from the Chevy P30 Van I got the cummins 4bt I'm using in this truck from. Also, the sender from the P30 tank will fit right in the opening on this tank, which takes care of the fuel hookups for the diesel. I'll relocate the filler to behind the wheel when I replace the quarter panels on my tub. I'll also need a skid plate, but I can build that once the truck is operational...

Fuel capacity is 20 gal, so I should get some good range with the 4bt. More pics and info on my blog in the sig....

:cheers:
 
SO, the crossmember is in the stock location I am guessing yes/no? If so, how far behind the crossmember is the front of the tank? Probably not far enough for those of us with flipped springs to clear it. Any concept/ideas on a skidplate? Man I do dig the scrounging things up ideas like this.
 
Yup, rear crossmember is in the stock location.

The pinch weld of the tank is pretty much even with the front of the crossmember, but the corners of the tank are beveled, so there should be enough shock clearance. If you had your axle moved backwards, you could always move the shock mounts to the front of the axle, that should help. You might be pretty close to the tank with the rear diff though... With my SOA with no weight on the rear axle, there is about 6" between the level of the top of the diff and the bottom of the tank.

As for the skid plate, I haven't got any ideas yet, but I've got a long time to think about it while I finish the rest of the project (resto, 4bt/NV4500 swap, etc). If the truck was driveable by mid summer I'd be ecstatic.

Hope that helps!
Tim
 
Awesome!! Anyone know the specs on the internal fuel pump in this tank? I would like to run this set-up with a Ford FI302.
 
I used the tank straps from the Chevy P30 Van I got the cummins 4bt I'm using in this truck from.
:cheers:

Nice work Tim!

In terms of the tank straps, how are they mounted? Can you please provide some pics. I think, I'm going to run the same set up. Again, nice work!
 
The straps are bent 90 degrees at the rear bumper end, with a 1/2" bolt through the strap and the bottom of the rear frame crossmember. You can see that here
Blazer+Tank

At the other end, the P30 straps have a piece of threaded rod attached to the strap. I welded some tabs to the rear crossmember to run that threaded rod through, then put on a nut. You can probably make that out in the picture in the first post, look just inboard of the shock mounts. I've got some 2"x3/16" rubber strips that Im going to put between the tank and the straps. It's really pretty simple.

As for an internal fuel pump, I am gathering that most chevy tanks use this same opening, so it'd just be a matter of finding an application that used an internal pump. Or, you could use an inline pump, and find a sender to go in the opening that has places for your lines.
 
Do you have a measurement of how far down the tank hangs at the rear of the frame? I have a Man-A-Fre tank that I was going to install but I like the option for an in tank fuel pump much better.

Looks like exhaust will fit nice.
 
Also, the sender from the P30 tank will fit right in the opening on this tank

so, how well will that sending unit talk to your stock gauge given the Ohm differences, or are you putting in an aftermarket gas gauge for that sending unit? I assume when you say "sender" you are talking about the sending unit?

but I like the option for an in tank fuel pump much better.

why??? seems like a real PITA to have it inside the tank if in needs to be replaced as you have to drain and drop the tank. An external pump, like on the Man-A-fre (like I have also) mounted to a frame rail is pretty safe and 10x easier to replace if/when it craps out...
 
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so, how well will that sending unit talk to your stock gauge given the Ohm differences, or are you putting in an aftermarket gas gauge for that sending unit? I assume when you say "sender" you are talking about the sending unit?
Since getting the factory gauges to work out with the Cummins diesel will be a real hassle, I'm going with all aftermarket gauges. I'd think that with the right resistors, I could probably make the sending unit work with the factory gauges, but who knows...
 
Do you have a measurement of how far down the tank hangs at the rear of the frame? I have a Man-A-Fre tank that I was going to install but I like the option for an in tank fuel pump much better.

Looks like exhaust will fit nice.

I'll take a measurement of how much it hangs down when I get home and post it up.

I'm thinking I can work the 3" exhaust I need by the tank, so setting it up for a gasser with 2-2.5" exhaust should be a piece of cake!
 
That is the same gas tank that is going in my fj45 pick up;)
 
why??? seems like a real PITA to have it inside the tank if in needs to be replaced as you have to drain and drop the tank. An external pump, like on the Man-A-fre (like I have also) mounted to a frame rail is pretty safe and 10x easier to replace if/when it craps out...[/QUOTE]


Why does everyone say why to an internal pump? Internal means out of the way of rocks, snakes, logs, children, childrens tricycles, dogs, cats, pedestrians etc.
In all my years of fuel injected vehicles I have NEVER had to change an internal pump. No having to worry about how to accomplish wiring or fuel line connections. Simply replicate factory wiring and connections and ride. No having to worry about off angle situations that pull fuel away from the pick-up. No having to fit one more thing on the frame rail. I've got more reasons for internal but it doesn't matter just a personal thing

:cheers:
 
why??? seems like a real PITA to have it inside the tank if in needs to be replaced as you have to drain and drop the tank. An external pump, like on the Man-A-fre (like I have also) mounted to a frame rail is pretty safe and 10x easier to replace if/when it craps out...


Why does everyone say why to an internal pump? Internal means out of the way of rocks, snakes, logs, children, childrens tricycles, dogs, cats, pedestrians etc.
In all my years of fuel injected vehicles I have NEVER had to change an internal pump. No having to worry about how to accomplish wiring or fuel line connections. Simply replicate factory wiring and connections and ride. No having to worry about off angle situations that pull fuel away from the pick-up. No having to fit one more thing on the frame rail. I've got more reasons for internal but it doesn't matter just a personal thing

:cheers:[/quote]


This why I am using this tank and many more reasons:beer:
 
The tank hangs down 5.5" below the bottom of the rear crossmember/bumper. This is about even with the bottom of my rear shackles.

About the in-tank fuel pump, my grand cherokee has one. The first one died at about 80k. The truck has 130k on it now and is sitting in the driveway with... you guessed it... a dead fuel pump. I guess that's not too bad, but the thing is pump/filter/sending unit all in one, and costs $250 min.
 
very cool idea!!!

i have two things i'd like to mention:

1) make sure that you double nut the straps at the front tank x-member. fj45LVs use the same strap setup and they are double nutted on both ends. you don't want them to slowly loosen up for obvious reasons...

2) the most common cause for inline pumps to go bad is running the vehicle low on fuel. since the pump is supposed to be submerged at all times it's really rough on them when they cavitate or suck air. the fuel also lubricates the pump and keeps it cool. no fuel - no lubrication - no cooling.

hth

georg
 
5.5 inches wow. Is there any way to get it up a little more? I mean does it set tight to the bottom of the tub where you have it mounted now? Not trying to dog your install as this is SUPER cool and will be copied. Just curious.

I found a new tank without pump or sending unit on line for $97.00 with straps and free shiping. Too bad the boss has tightened up the purse strings around here.
 
5.5 inches wow. Is there any way to get it up a little more? I mean does it set tight to the bottom of the tub where you have it mounted now? Not trying to dog your install as this is SUPER cool and will be copied. Just curious.

I found a new tank without pump or sending unit on line for $97.00 with straps and free shiping. Too bad the boss has tightened up the purse strings around here.

The tank is 10" deep, so it's pretty much as high up as it could be I think. The top of the front of the tank is snugged up against the bottom of the shock mount cross member, so maybe you could get another 1" out of it somehow. 5.5" seemed like a lot to me at first also, but it's about even with the bottom of my rear shackles, so its not going to be a super rock grabber.

Honestly, If I were building a purpose built rock buggy, I'd go with a ~10 gal fuel cell and mount it in the cargo area. However, I was more interested in building a good exploring rig with decent range, hence the ~20 gal tank not taking up the cargo room or underseat storage.... It's all about tradeoffs.

$97 for a new tank is pretty good, I paid $50 for this one used local, but there were some futher away that were $15-20 used. Shipping just wasn't reasonable.

Hope it helps some out! I'll update the thread as I put on the tub, move the filler, build a skid plate, etc.
 
A couple of questions for ya.

  1. Are you worried about how close the tank is the the rear bumber without a guard? After looking at your pics reminds me of the ford pinto gas tank problem.
  2. In terms of fitting the tank, would it be possible to do it with the body on?
Thanks,

UNO.
 
i've been thining about this mod since i originally saw this thread. next time pnp is having a half price day sale i'm gonna grab a tank to check it out. once again, great idea!!!!! :beer:
 
why??? seems like a real PITA to have it inside the tank if in needs to be replaced as you have to drain and drop the tank. An external pump, like on the Man-A-fre (like I have also) mounted to a frame rail is pretty safe and 10x easier to replace if/when it craps out...


Why does everyone say why to an internal pump? Internal means out of the way of rocks, snakes, logs, children, childrens tricycles, dogs, cats, pedestrians etc.
In all my years of fuel injected vehicles I have NEVER had to change an internal pump. No having to worry about how to accomplish wiring or fuel line connections. Simply replicate factory wiring and connections and ride. No having to worry about off angle situations that pull fuel away from the pick-up. No having to fit one more thing on the frame rail. I've got more reasons for internal but it doesn't matter just a personal thing

:cheers:[/QUOTE]



I've got no problems with internal pumps. But they do fail, just like everything else. I've replaced about half a dozen of them in minitrucks and FJ62s.


Mark...
 

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