looks clean, my whole purpose is to get any type of fuel container OUT of the passenger compartment tho.
S10 Blazer rear tank in a '40
- Thread starter TimCFJ40
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i run the frame mounted walbro/airtex pumps on all the conversions i perform at the shop. they come in different ghp and pressure ratings and hold up very well. if you do some shopping around, you can get them for $80. they're not loisy like the hot-rod style holley pumps and alike. i also like the ease of access.
I bought one to install in my 40, would not fit with flipped rear springs, will hit the differential on compression. I think LCHamma modified his because of this. Also, I didn't like how low it was. Try a Suzuki Sidekick tank, heard they work well for this application.
Ok Bringing back an old thread.
If I bought said S-10 tank, what other parts would I need to buy? I've searched for all the s-10 threads but everyone seems to know what they're doing and, as a new 40 owner, a lot of it is over my head.
So I buy the tank. Do i need a fuel pump? What is a sending unit?
Sorry for the basic questions, hopefully someone will be patient enough to help
If I bought said S-10 tank, what other parts would I need to buy? I've searched for all the s-10 threads but everyone seems to know what they're doing and, as a new 40 owner, a lot of it is over my head.
So I buy the tank. Do i need a fuel pump? What is a sending unit?
Sorry for the basic questions, hopefully someone will be patient enough to help
yes you will need a pump either a hi pressure or low pressure depending on carb or injected motor. what are you running for a motor. and the sending unit is what hangs down inside the tank and tells the fuel gauge what the level of the fuel is.
If you look to the original post, the shock mounts are ahead of the crossmember but the shock mounts on the axle are behind the axle I believe.
On mine, both are behind so I'm not sure the tank will fit. can i just take the mounts on the crossmember and move them to the front of the crossmember? Would I have to do this for the axle because otherwise they won't be aligned?
Someone mentioned flipped springs before, what is that?
On mine, both are behind so I'm not sure the tank will fit. can i just take the mounts on the crossmember and move them to the front of the crossmember? Would I have to do this for the axle because otherwise they won't be aligned?
Someone mentioned flipped springs before, what is that?
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I am gathering the bits to run an auxillary tank in my 40. I was looking for any tank that would fit and the S10 one fits like a glove. Now a friend thinks that he has spotted an S10 tank on a vehicle that is being disassembled this week in a salvage yard. I am unsure about two things, One will be what shape the sender is in, if one is still attached and Two, if it comes with an in the tank fuel pump. As such I´m directing these questions to you folks.
1 - what is the Ohm range at which the stock fuel gauge recieves? What is the Ohm output of the S 10 sender?
2 - - Is there any chance that I could simply replace the S - 10 sender with a Toyota one that would talk nicely out of the box to my stock fuel gauge.
3 - assuming no sender is still with the tank when I get there and also assuming that I can´t swap in a Toyota sender, the replacement ones for the S 10 tank seem to come in fuel injection and non fuel injection versions:
Quanta Products
I run a 1HZ 6 cyl diesel, obviously fuel injected but is there anything different about a gas fuel injection sender v. a diesel one?
4 - In tank fuel pumps v. external in line pumps - After having to help a buddy replace his in a jeep when it failed out on the trail I get the appeal of the inline fuel pump ease of replacement. The con seems to be noise. Does the in the tank v. inline fuel pump debate really just boil down to that or am I missing something. Thanks in advance.
1 - what is the Ohm range at which the stock fuel gauge recieves? What is the Ohm output of the S 10 sender?
2 - - Is there any chance that I could simply replace the S - 10 sender with a Toyota one that would talk nicely out of the box to my stock fuel gauge.
3 - assuming no sender is still with the tank when I get there and also assuming that I can´t swap in a Toyota sender, the replacement ones for the S 10 tank seem to come in fuel injection and non fuel injection versions:
Quanta Products
I run a 1HZ 6 cyl diesel, obviously fuel injected but is there anything different about a gas fuel injection sender v. a diesel one?
4 - In tank fuel pumps v. external in line pumps - After having to help a buddy replace his in a jeep when it failed out on the trail I get the appeal of the inline fuel pump ease of replacement. The con seems to be noise. Does the in the tank v. inline fuel pump debate really just boil down to that or am I missing something. Thanks in advance.
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I know this is a buried thread, but a couple questions and info provided. 1972 1F Engine with 32/26 Webber Carb. I am removing the interior gas tank to make room for BMW seats, installing the S10 Blazer 13 gal tank which saves me a couple inches hanging below the frame.
Can someone explain why I need a fuel pump? The science behind it like because it won't generate enough fuel pressure or it will over work the mechanical pump. I've read the comments about in-tank versus inline, but still wonder why I couldn't use the existing engine mounted fuel pump. It will just be a cruiser, no rock climbing or highway driving. Just beach cruising.
Thanks again to the brain trust
Picture is reference for where I'm at in my resto-mod process.
Can someone explain why I need a fuel pump? The science behind it like because it won't generate enough fuel pressure or it will over work the mechanical pump. I've read the comments about in-tank versus inline, but still wonder why I couldn't use the existing engine mounted fuel pump. It will just be a cruiser, no rock climbing or highway driving. Just beach cruising.
Thanks again to the brain trust
Picture is reference for where I'm at in my resto-mod process.
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Depending on how long it stays parked and whether the tank is above the fuel pump. If parked for a long time fuel in the carburetor could evaporate and if the tank is below the pump, it could take excessive cranking for it to suck fuel out of the tank. A small electric pump mounted near the tank could prevent this. Remember that the Weber only needs 2 - 3 lbs for fuel pressure, anything over and it will most likely run rich as fuel would be pushed into the engine.
I noticed even with the tank inside the cab it took a few cranks to get fuel into the bowl. I was planning on putting a check valve before the mechanical pump to help keep the fuel filter full and reduce the pull from the rear of the tank...if that makes sense.