My question for everyone is what set up do you use for an overloaded 8,000 lb 100 Series. I have spent the past four years reading posts here, so I thought I would summarize what I have, and get your thoughts.
What I use the truck for:I use the truck for a dedicated camping/hiking/hunting truck. It has evolved over time and I hate to think of how much money I have spent, BUT it has taken me places in Mexico, Utah, AZ, and CA that few if any people will ever see, all in reliable & ridiculous comfort. I have done some of the tougher trails like Hole in the Rock, Elephant Hill, Dollhouse, all with nearly 8,000lbs. But my real problem is not technical trails with rocks & ledges, it is getting there on a rutted out washboard road! In the desert and on fire service roads I drive faster than most (25-50mph) Washboard roads are my worst nightmare (think Race Track Road in Death Valley x 2), especially on a slight curve when not paying attention. Faster is better, but eventually I will crash if not careful. The easiest solution is to slow down. I know ask my wife...
Problems:Too much crap...My truck weighs 7,900lbs and handling was almost dangerous. It bottomed out so much that at times I thought the hits would bend or break the rear axle. (Baja Mexico is not a good place for this to happen) Going slow at 5mph is not an option all the time. If you have driven to or spent time in Baja/North Rim/Utah Maze/Saline Valley/Death Valley you will agree that hundreds of miles on washboard are inevitable, and driving faster is better sometimes. When I make mistakes and hit washouts or pot holes I want my truck to stay in one piece.
I have weighed this truck and almost puked when the scale said 8,000 lbs. The next time I loaded the truck I threw out stuff I did not need, and then weighed everything as I packed just to see what the hell I was puting in there. I hate to post this as it is embarrassing but I think most guys would find this interesting. I am no longer in denial, which is the first step to recovery. See my list below and tell me how much your truck weighs.
6860 Stock Gross Vehicle Weight Restriction
5560 Dry Weight
215 Slee Rear Bumper
100 ARB Sahara Front Bumper
175 F&R Lockers / Winch M10000
150 Tires Extra Weight for five 33" tires over stock
30 2nd Battery
50 Wood Platforms inside in place of seats
(180) Removed Rear Second and Third Row Seats
300 2 People
150 Roof Top Tent (Maggiolina)
45 Awning
75 Refridgerator Empty
50 Pul Pal
30 Powertank
40 Pelican Case: Tools
85 Pelican Case: Recovery Gear
85 Pelican Case: Parts/Repair
65 Pelican Case: Spare Fluids
45 Pelican Case: Camping
40 Pelican Case: MIsc/Medical
20 Shower Tent and Water Heater
30 Chairs
75 Clothes
30 Packs
30 Books/Other
50 Food/Drink Refridgerator
100 Drinking Water/Beer/Sodas
30 Dry Food
156 Main Fuel 25 Gal
94 Aux Fuel 15 Gal
165 Water for Showers/Dishes 20 Gal
7890 Total Weight
-125 Fuel
-90 Water
-60 Food & Water
7615 Average weight during the trip
My Set Up for Heavy Truck:
Springs: I finally switched to the OME864 rear spring. A springs primary job is to support the desired load at the correct ride height. Not the empty truck but the fully loaded truck. If your truck squats and sits just off the bump stops get a heavier spring or bring less crap! (Air bags are great for some, but I chose not to do it for reasons I do not have time to get into here)
Shocks: This is the most under appreciated item on any truck. How many times have you used your winch? your lights? Most guys here have $15-30,000 (not including the gear inside) of crap on these trucks and nearly everyone runs tiny shocks that sell for $75. I have personally exploded two sets of OME shocks. They get hot and boil the fluid then the seals failed/ They DO NOT work when I need them most. I would bottom out on every bump. One 2" Remote Resevoir Shock is the same as 2-3 OME shocks per corner. One 2.5" Remote Res shock is the same as 4-6 OME shocks per corner!!!!. Most shock manufacturers agree that for this truck fully loaded we need a 2.5" remote res shock and would really recommend a 3" shock for 8,000lbs (if it would fit but it won't). Have you ever had your heart stop on a washboard or rutted road on a slight bend in the road when you felt you truck skipping towards the ditch? Your wife screams, and yells slow down, and you need 5 minutes just to calm down? When the OME shock fluid is boiling hot and not functioning your tires will bounce and skip you right into a ditch! If you don't belive me then just feel how hot your OME shocks are after driving on a washboard road for 30 minutes. After a while you will not be able to touch them. 90% of the people here who comment on what shocks to buy, have not compared handling on a truck with good shocks and one without. (think Ford Raptor vs Ford F150) The Raptor is the same truck with suspension mods. Shocks are the biggest expense in a typical suspension upgrade and by far the most important component. These things can be expensive at $400 per corner! I have spent countless hours under my truck measuring droop and wheel travel. I will not debate what size or brand to use, I live in Orange County CA and can drive 30 mintues to King Shocks, Fox, Rad Flo, Icon, etc... I have bugged everyone of them including Christo about this subject. After years of trying to find a 2.5" remote res shock I finally went to King Shocks. They needed a donor truck to design a 2.5" bolt in kit for the IFS UZJ100. They had my truck for two weeks building brackets and measuring for droop and clearance. They should have production started soon. (I will post pictures later) AGAIN, I cannot tell you what shock or length of shock to buy, but when I think about all the money I spent before this upgrade it is almost laughable I did not upgrade earlier.
Bump Stops: 100 series trucks are a mystery when it comes to rear bump stops. Some have them and some don't. The shock itself is not designed to stop the truck from bottoming out. If you do not have bump stops your lower shock mount will take the hit and most likely explode your shock. Many here think droop is more important for rock crawling, and I wont argue that, but reducing up-travel (by having to lower your bump stops) to absorb big hits is a major compromise. It is the up-travel I need driving through places like Death Valley in order to absorb the bumps/ditches, and potholes.
Rear Sway Bar Link Extension: Not many people extend their link ends but I think it is something to look into. If you raise the truck 2 inches then the sway bar is loaded up more than it's intended to be. I plan to do this mod this winter, and add between 40-50mm.
Front Suspension: There is not much to do yet. Adding a new aftermarket Upper Control Arm from Total Choas or Carl at Just Differential's is the only real mod. It allows people to run a slightly longer shock that allows for a little more droop (.5"-1") For those new to this subject the Stock UCA is is the limiting factor in droop. If you run a longer shock the the UCA will hit the shock before the shock is fully extended and you will need limiting straps. I run the Slee diff drop as well to help with excessive CV angles but I do not have any problems. They CV shafts in these trucks are nearly bomb proof. They might leak a little for some but who cares. Mine don't. FYI Total Choas just finished their new UCA for the 100. They had my truck for 2 weeks doing final fitment, so prodcution should start soon.
Brakes: I have read so many posts on this subject but still not sure if there is a definitive answer. I do not care about brake pad longevity, I just want better stopping power. Is there a documented stopping difference for the different options? I plan to add braided brake lines at some point, but mainly to avoid over extending the stock lines, and to avoid a rupture from flying debris. Any ideas on the best setup would be great.
Guys let me know your thoughts on how you set up your 8,000lb Land Cruiser. (besides leaving stuff at home) I would love to hear about your set up, and especially your springs, bump stops etc... Also how much does your truck weigh fully loaded for a week long trip?
What I use the truck for:I use the truck for a dedicated camping/hiking/hunting truck. It has evolved over time and I hate to think of how much money I have spent, BUT it has taken me places in Mexico, Utah, AZ, and CA that few if any people will ever see, all in reliable & ridiculous comfort. I have done some of the tougher trails like Hole in the Rock, Elephant Hill, Dollhouse, all with nearly 8,000lbs. But my real problem is not technical trails with rocks & ledges, it is getting there on a rutted out washboard road! In the desert and on fire service roads I drive faster than most (25-50mph) Washboard roads are my worst nightmare (think Race Track Road in Death Valley x 2), especially on a slight curve when not paying attention. Faster is better, but eventually I will crash if not careful. The easiest solution is to slow down. I know ask my wife...
Problems:Too much crap...My truck weighs 7,900lbs and handling was almost dangerous. It bottomed out so much that at times I thought the hits would bend or break the rear axle. (Baja Mexico is not a good place for this to happen) Going slow at 5mph is not an option all the time. If you have driven to or spent time in Baja/North Rim/Utah Maze/Saline Valley/Death Valley you will agree that hundreds of miles on washboard are inevitable, and driving faster is better sometimes. When I make mistakes and hit washouts or pot holes I want my truck to stay in one piece.
I have weighed this truck and almost puked when the scale said 8,000 lbs. The next time I loaded the truck I threw out stuff I did not need, and then weighed everything as I packed just to see what the hell I was puting in there. I hate to post this as it is embarrassing but I think most guys would find this interesting. I am no longer in denial, which is the first step to recovery. See my list below and tell me how much your truck weighs.
6860 Stock Gross Vehicle Weight Restriction
5560 Dry Weight
215 Slee Rear Bumper
100 ARB Sahara Front Bumper
175 F&R Lockers / Winch M10000
150 Tires Extra Weight for five 33" tires over stock
30 2nd Battery
50 Wood Platforms inside in place of seats
(180) Removed Rear Second and Third Row Seats
300 2 People
150 Roof Top Tent (Maggiolina)
45 Awning
75 Refridgerator Empty
50 Pul Pal
30 Powertank
40 Pelican Case: Tools
85 Pelican Case: Recovery Gear
85 Pelican Case: Parts/Repair
65 Pelican Case: Spare Fluids
45 Pelican Case: Camping
40 Pelican Case: MIsc/Medical
20 Shower Tent and Water Heater
30 Chairs
75 Clothes
30 Packs
30 Books/Other
50 Food/Drink Refridgerator
100 Drinking Water/Beer/Sodas
30 Dry Food
156 Main Fuel 25 Gal
94 Aux Fuel 15 Gal
165 Water for Showers/Dishes 20 Gal
7890 Total Weight
-125 Fuel
-90 Water
-60 Food & Water
7615 Average weight during the trip
My Set Up for Heavy Truck:
Springs: I finally switched to the OME864 rear spring. A springs primary job is to support the desired load at the correct ride height. Not the empty truck but the fully loaded truck. If your truck squats and sits just off the bump stops get a heavier spring or bring less crap! (Air bags are great for some, but I chose not to do it for reasons I do not have time to get into here)
Shocks: This is the most under appreciated item on any truck. How many times have you used your winch? your lights? Most guys here have $15-30,000 (not including the gear inside) of crap on these trucks and nearly everyone runs tiny shocks that sell for $75. I have personally exploded two sets of OME shocks. They get hot and boil the fluid then the seals failed/ They DO NOT work when I need them most. I would bottom out on every bump. One 2" Remote Resevoir Shock is the same as 2-3 OME shocks per corner. One 2.5" Remote Res shock is the same as 4-6 OME shocks per corner!!!!. Most shock manufacturers agree that for this truck fully loaded we need a 2.5" remote res shock and would really recommend a 3" shock for 8,000lbs (if it would fit but it won't). Have you ever had your heart stop on a washboard or rutted road on a slight bend in the road when you felt you truck skipping towards the ditch? Your wife screams, and yells slow down, and you need 5 minutes just to calm down? When the OME shock fluid is boiling hot and not functioning your tires will bounce and skip you right into a ditch! If you don't belive me then just feel how hot your OME shocks are after driving on a washboard road for 30 minutes. After a while you will not be able to touch them. 90% of the people here who comment on what shocks to buy, have not compared handling on a truck with good shocks and one without. (think Ford Raptor vs Ford F150) The Raptor is the same truck with suspension mods. Shocks are the biggest expense in a typical suspension upgrade and by far the most important component. These things can be expensive at $400 per corner! I have spent countless hours under my truck measuring droop and wheel travel. I will not debate what size or brand to use, I live in Orange County CA and can drive 30 mintues to King Shocks, Fox, Rad Flo, Icon, etc... I have bugged everyone of them including Christo about this subject. After years of trying to find a 2.5" remote res shock I finally went to King Shocks. They needed a donor truck to design a 2.5" bolt in kit for the IFS UZJ100. They had my truck for two weeks building brackets and measuring for droop and clearance. They should have production started soon. (I will post pictures later) AGAIN, I cannot tell you what shock or length of shock to buy, but when I think about all the money I spent before this upgrade it is almost laughable I did not upgrade earlier.
Bump Stops: 100 series trucks are a mystery when it comes to rear bump stops. Some have them and some don't. The shock itself is not designed to stop the truck from bottoming out. If you do not have bump stops your lower shock mount will take the hit and most likely explode your shock. Many here think droop is more important for rock crawling, and I wont argue that, but reducing up-travel (by having to lower your bump stops) to absorb big hits is a major compromise. It is the up-travel I need driving through places like Death Valley in order to absorb the bumps/ditches, and potholes.
Rear Sway Bar Link Extension: Not many people extend their link ends but I think it is something to look into. If you raise the truck 2 inches then the sway bar is loaded up more than it's intended to be. I plan to do this mod this winter, and add between 40-50mm.
Front Suspension: There is not much to do yet. Adding a new aftermarket Upper Control Arm from Total Choas or Carl at Just Differential's is the only real mod. It allows people to run a slightly longer shock that allows for a little more droop (.5"-1") For those new to this subject the Stock UCA is is the limiting factor in droop. If you run a longer shock the the UCA will hit the shock before the shock is fully extended and you will need limiting straps. I run the Slee diff drop as well to help with excessive CV angles but I do not have any problems. They CV shafts in these trucks are nearly bomb proof. They might leak a little for some but who cares. Mine don't. FYI Total Choas just finished their new UCA for the 100. They had my truck for 2 weeks doing final fitment, so prodcution should start soon.
Brakes: I have read so many posts on this subject but still not sure if there is a definitive answer. I do not care about brake pad longevity, I just want better stopping power. Is there a documented stopping difference for the different options? I plan to add braided brake lines at some point, but mainly to avoid over extending the stock lines, and to avoid a rupture from flying debris. Any ideas on the best setup would be great.
Guys let me know your thoughts on how you set up your 8,000lb Land Cruiser. (besides leaving stuff at home) I would love to hear about your set up, and especially your springs, bump stops etc... Also how much does your truck weigh fully loaded for a week long trip?
