I got my new tranny installed and just need to flush the cooler lines before I install the new cooler. I need to know which fitting is the output and which is the input on the side of the transmission? I have no idea and my manual doesn't mention which is which. My plan is to hookup the output line only and pump a few quarts of fluid through the cooler lines to clear them and then blow the line out with air.
which tranny cooler line is in/out
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Trunk Monkey
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In your 62?
Inlet on top, outlet on bottom.
Inlet on top, outlet on bottom.
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sorry, guess i need to update my signature. 2001 100 series, A343F
there is one towards the front by the bellhousing and one towards the back by the transfercase
there is one towards the front by the bellhousing and one towards the back by the transfercase
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Tada . . .
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sweeeet! exactly what i was lookin' fer. thanks cory
On the oil cooler, the TOP line is the "OUT" line.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Other way around. Updated my pic to show the cooler too. Fluid comes in on top, cools as it flows down the fins, and then out the bottom.
Coming OUT of the transmission... yes.
I would consider an in-line filter downstream from the cooler in addition to the flush. Small insurance for an expensive part.
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that's a good suggestion. i was so paranoid, I bought a 250lb pull super magnet from harbor frieght and stuck it to the tranny pan once i got it all put together. that sucker is strong! if there is anything metallic in there it's not getting past that bad boy. I plan to drop the pan on it in a few weeks to be sure everything looks good and refill with full synthetic. so far it drives great... just like the day before it blew up on me.
I know this is an old thread but I am currently replacing fluids in my new to me 2000 LX. When I do transmission fluid should I change these inlet and outlet hoses due to age? The LX only has 74k miles on it and is in great mechanical shape.
Thanks
Thanks
I recently had an oops with my radiator and would like some input on my understanding.
Back story - I was leaking ATF where goes into the engine radiator. Turns out that the o-ring in the fitting that connects the ATF hose to the bottom of the radiator was broken. I am not sure when it broke, but my further messing with it and tightening, trying to get it to stop eventually broke the radiator! I sheared the threaded cuff that holds the inner ATF heat exchange to the side of the radiator which also resulted in the ATF line flopping out of the radiator. ATF everywhere.
I learnt a lot from this thread on the assembly of the DENSO radiator, which is what I bought as a replacement.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...33-radiator-comparison-denso-spectra-osc.html
So here is what I want to understand:
(Pic from above, thanks @Trunk Monkey
In this pic, ATF goes from the tranny (outlet) to the ATF cooler first, then into the bottom of the engine radiator and then across the bottom of the engine radiator (bathed in engine coolant) and out to the tranny. So the final stage of the ATF cooling/heating process, matches the temperature at the bottom of the radiator - presumably the coolest part of the cooling system at all times (at least once the thermostat opens).
So I think this means that the engine coolant thermostat is also indirectly modulating the ATF temperature too...
If the engine is cold, and the thermostat is (mostly) closed - the ATF is not really getting warmed by the engine directly.
My current thinking is that the ATF cooler "pre-cools" the ATF mostly* independently of the engine - so that the ATF is not heating the engine through a shared heat exchange. Once the ATF is cooled down sufficiently by its own cooler it then goes through the bottom of the radiator for a final cooling stage. At this point the ATF itself should be below the temp of the hottest part of the engine and coolant (at the top of the radiator).
I don't think we can say that the ATF is helping cool the engine, but it is also not heating the engine either? Also I don't think there is any concept of warming the transmission fluid with the engine when its cold because the thermostat is closed at this point too?
There is no benefit to bypassing the engine radiator and running ATF from its cooler directly to the transmission either...the engine thermostat will still govern engine temp to the same temperature.
* I say "mostly" because heat exchanged in the ATF cooler does raise the air temp crossing the engine radiator.
Back story - I was leaking ATF where goes into the engine radiator. Turns out that the o-ring in the fitting that connects the ATF hose to the bottom of the radiator was broken. I am not sure when it broke, but my further messing with it and tightening, trying to get it to stop eventually broke the radiator! I sheared the threaded cuff that holds the inner ATF heat exchange to the side of the radiator which also resulted in the ATF line flopping out of the radiator. ATF everywhere.
I learnt a lot from this thread on the assembly of the DENSO radiator, which is what I bought as a replacement.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...33-radiator-comparison-denso-spectra-osc.html
So here is what I want to understand:
(Pic from above, thanks @Trunk Monkey
In this pic, ATF goes from the tranny (outlet) to the ATF cooler first, then into the bottom of the engine radiator and then across the bottom of the engine radiator (bathed in engine coolant) and out to the tranny. So the final stage of the ATF cooling/heating process, matches the temperature at the bottom of the radiator - presumably the coolest part of the cooling system at all times (at least once the thermostat opens).
So I think this means that the engine coolant thermostat is also indirectly modulating the ATF temperature too...
If the engine is cold, and the thermostat is (mostly) closed - the ATF is not really getting warmed by the engine directly.
My current thinking is that the ATF cooler "pre-cools" the ATF mostly* independently of the engine - so that the ATF is not heating the engine through a shared heat exchange. Once the ATF is cooled down sufficiently by its own cooler it then goes through the bottom of the radiator for a final cooling stage. At this point the ATF itself should be below the temp of the hottest part of the engine and coolant (at the top of the radiator).
I don't think we can say that the ATF is helping cool the engine, but it is also not heating the engine either? Also I don't think there is any concept of warming the transmission fluid with the engine when its cold because the thermostat is closed at this point too?
There is no benefit to bypassing the engine radiator and running ATF from its cooler directly to the transmission either...the engine thermostat will still govern engine temp to the same temperature.
* I say "mostly" because heat exchanged in the ATF cooler does raise the air temp crossing the engine radiator.
Hi Lost African. Found this thread that is great tutorial for me to get ready to exchange the tranny fluid in my 2002 LX470. From your last diagram, I found my tran oil cooler outlet hose (bottom of cooler radiator) is attached to the solid pipe shown in the diagram with a bend (32905) and the inlet or top of the cooler radiator hose is attached to the solid pipe that is straight. My thought is to drain the tranny pan, fill with fresh ATF, disconnect the bottom hose of the cooler radiator, start the engine and let the old fluid run out, then refill and repeat until tranny fluid is clean. Could mine be reversed where ATF from tranny goes into bottom of cooler radiator and out the top? What was your experience when you did yours? Thanks.
This thread on the tranny cooler line and how to fully change the tranny fluid was excellent. The only suggestion I would make is to disconnect the hose for the bottom of the tranny cooler. Disconnect on the car-side where it goes into the return line 32906. This way, you flush out the fluid inside the cooler as well. Thanks to all.
My '00 LX470 just turned 200k and I'm looking to do this myself. Last drain and fill from previous owner was at 127k. A question I have is that I recently took it to a Toyota dealer who said they couldn't get the drain plug out of the tranny. I left there disgusted and now am eager to do this. Is there any harm in NOT draining the pan and simply going to this method seeing the plug is frozen? Can't thank everyone enough here for all the great info.
I would use a Fluid Extractor to extract as much ATF as possible from the dipstick/filler tube first.
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Crawl under there yourself and take a look. What do they mean they can't get it out? Is it cross threaded and they don't want to be liable for the repairs? Draining through the lines is not a bad method, just measure your fluid level before you start and measure how much drains out so you can make sure the same amount goes back in (or whatever amount is needed to get to the proper level). But there are magnets at the bottom of the pan that collect metal shavings and can be cleaned if you drop it.
I did take a look at it when I got it home and they actually did spray something on it to apparently loosen it up. Being it's a dealership and in CA there's probably a law against removing tight bolts. Might cause carpal tunnel or something else as stupid.
I'll try to get it off myself this weekend. Thanks again for all the help.
