Ziebart/ZTech Undercoating Advice (1 Viewer)

[MWaltz]

It's really not that hard to do and you really can preserve your vehicle...I should know I drive my rust-free 80 all year in Minnesota and they use a ton of salt and our winters last forever. I ALWAYS completely undercoat it with FluidFilm and I have a $30/month all-you-can wash car wash deal with the Holiday gas stations here so I take full advantage of that. Considering where you live I wouldn't worry about it at all if you follow my advice.

This is definitely the way I should have gone about it, sounds like you’ve got the right system if it’s working in Minnesota. One of my concerns is that if I do that now on TOP of this coating, will there still be an issue down the line of it failing (because you’re supposed to maintain them with annual touch-ups) and trapping moisture etc. even if I fluid film it and keep it very clean? I’m not sure if I really need to remove this undercoating if I’m really gonna fix the issue.

 

[MrMacdugal]

Don't try to remove the zeebaht crap. Put some fluid film or something everywhere else. Let that plastic crap fall off naturally and keep up with washing and reapplying of the fluid film regularly. put it in cavities and over the surface of your mistake... Dont stress is too much. If you garage your vehicle and aren't submerging it, your probably going to be fine. The main part is you care and will actively be watching so you can be proactive. You put on a rust preventative, not an accelerator. remember that.

That being said. I work for a limousine manufacturer, we build stretch limos from raw metal. After stretching a vehicle 10 feet we prime, seal and undercoat. With the addition of cavity wax in the frame rails and any enclosed cavity. We always use rubberized undercoating(which I hate and have been advising against for years). I have seen 5 year old limos come back with holes in the floor that you could use like Fred Flinstone's car. Its Incredible. Depends on the person applying it(thickness and attention to detail) Sometimes that stuff just causes a nightmare. Other times, seemed to do its job. The people that do not maintain their vehicle always were the ones with rusting floors. They are also the ones who don't wash their vehicles, and keep them outside.. go figure.

 

[MWaltz]

Don't try to remove the zeebaht crap. Put some fluid film or something everywhere else. Let that plastic crap fall off naturally and keep up with washing and reapplying of the fluid film regularly. put it in cavities and over the surface of your mistake... Dont stress is too much. If you garage your vehicle and aren't submerging it, your probably going to be fine. The main part is you care and will actively be watching so you can be proactive. You put on a rust preventative, not an accelerator. remember that.

That being said. I work for a limousine manufacturer, we build stretch limos from raw metal. After stretching a vehicle 10 feet we prime, seal and undercoat. With the addition of cavity wax in the frame rails and any enclosed cavity. We always use rubberized undercoating(which I hate and have been advising against for years). I have seen 5 year old limos come back with holes in the floor that you could use like Fred Flinstone's car. Its Incredible. Depends on the person applying it(thickness and attention to detail) Sometimes that stuff just causes a nightmare. Other times, seemed to do its job. The people that do not maintain their vehicle always were the ones with rusting floors. They are also the ones who don't wash their vehicles, and keep them outside.. go figure.

Thanks for this. I definitely care and that’s making me even more mad at myself for not recognizing this as a bad idea before having it done. So you think I should fluid film everything and as the rubberized stuff starts to crack, just keep proactively chipping that off and rewash/fluid film those areas? Also, what’s the best way to get in the frame rails effectively? I’ve seen some talk about using a wand with 360 degree applicator tips.

I don’t submerge it, it only gets wet from precipitation. Do you recommend garage keeping it just so it stays more dry and avoids humidity? Right now it splits garage time with my ‘19 Camry that’s my gas saver (and I suppose winter driver).

 

[bigredmachine]

as the rubberized stuff starts to crack, just keep proactively chipping that off and rewash/fluid film those areas?

i would, if its cracked and pealing than its not protecting anything and itll trap dirt, grim and salt. itll hold moisture longer and make it harder to wash that all off

Do you recommend garage keeping it just so it stays more dry and avoids humidity? Right now it splits garage time with my ‘19 Camry that’s my gas saver (and I suppose winter driver).

not necessarily, if its being parked in a paved or concrete driveway thatll act as a moisture barrier vs. parking on dirt or gravel. while it would be better to park it inside its not totally necessary

 

[bigredmachine]

a friend of mine uses diesel fuel and bar oil as an undercoat and so far so good. just get a good bar oil that has a high zinc content. mix it up, load it into a lawn sprayer and have at it

 

[jonheld]

I bought my LX450 in Phoenix and drove it back to Jersey where it is a daily driver. I spray everything below with Fluid Film every October from tip to tail in my driveway. After 9 years of Jersey winters with salt and brine, I have no rust. The key is to start spraying before it starts to rust.

 

[MWaltz]

I think I’ve got a game plan guys. Thanks. I’ll reat it myself with something legit, most likely fluid film, keep it from getting exposed to any of the winter nastiness, and monitor this junk coating to make sure I’m removing what’s failing and keeping those areas treated.

This is a pretty ignorant question, but where do I need to check to make sure I have proper drainage? I don’t have much knowledge on that.

 

[SteveH]

Doors, fenders, and rocker panels often have either weep holes or small rubber plugs (rear fenders) that seal holes. Make sure those are clear and open. On some Toyotas, the drain holes in the doors are just channels in the stamping (of the inner and outer door panel) and may also be hidden behind door seals. You will just have to study the doors and find the drain holes.

Many folks use the skinny end of a zip tie to shove up inside this drain channel to be sure it's open. My FJ60 had a gallon or two of water trapped in the rear quarter panel because of those idiot rubber plugs Toyota put in the drain holes at the bottom of the quarter panel. I removed the plugs and left them out. You gotta let water out! Mine filled because the gasket around the gas filler neck was defective/rotted.

The real solution is to drive something else (as you indicated) when the salt-storm is upon you.

Finally, the trick with any rustproofing is to use a gooey, non-hardening grease or oil formula, rather than a tar-based formula. Gooey stuff will stick to metal, and nothing can get behind it. A rock-hard tar film will eventually perforate, water/sand/salt will get behind it, and bad things will happen.

 

[MWaltz]

Doors, fenders, and rocker panels often have either weep holes or small rubber plugs (rear fenders) that seal holes. Make sure those are clear and open. On some Toyotas, the drain holes in the doors are just channels in the stamping (of the inner and outer door panel) and may also be hidden behind door seals. You will just have to study the doors and find the drain holes.

Many folks use the skinny end of a zip tie to shove up inside this drain channel to be sure it's open. My FJ60 had a gallon or two of water trapped in the rear quarter panel because of those idiot rubber plugs Toyota put in the drain holes at the bottom of the quarter panel. I removed the plugs and left them out. You gotta let water out! Mine filled because the gasket around the gas filler neck was defective/rotted.

The real solution is to drive something else (as you indicated) when the salt-storm is upon you.

Finally, the trick with any rustproofing is to use a gooey, non-hardening grease or oil formula, rather than a tar-based formula. Gooey stuff will stick to metal, and nothing can get behind it. A rock-hard tar film will eventually perforate, water/sand/salt will get behind it, and bad things will happen.

Great, thanks. I’ll check it out and make sure The drainage is squared away

 

[MWaltz]

The only permanent coating I would apply to the undercarriage with is epoxy, like this:

Abrasive Blast and Paint Undercarriage? 7 year update

I live in the Northeast and work at a place that does abrasive blasting and painting so ive been talking to the guys about having my rear axle cleaned and painted. I plan on simply rolling my truck in, jacking it up, and having them do what they call "sweep blasting" which is going to knock off...

forum.ih8mud.com

Less intensive options are Fluid Film and Woolwax. Mustie1 on YouTube is in New England and has a few videos about rust prevention using homemade concoctions:

Last thought about a removal attempt - I do have a buddy whose family owns a company that does sand and other types of abrasive blasting. Is this even worth considering? The guy in this thread’s truck was rusty and didn’t have a rubber coating. I’d be doing it just to remove the coat so I could treat it myself with something oil based. I’m not sure if it would even work or if it would be worth it even if it would work. I know there could be issues damaging some of the more sensitive stuff underneath.

 

[clx16]

There are so many great reviews for the spray on cosmoline options(RP-342 and CRC HD) out there, I am not sure why it isn't discussed more here. I wonder if it is the smell that turns people off. I know when i lived in the salt belt we had something we put on that was cosmoline that we put on non automotive and farming equipment. no idea why we didn't use it on vehicles back then since it did work for the steel we had out in the weather.



and of course project farms reviews.
Best Car Undercoating? Let's find out! Is Flex Seal the Best Rust & Salt Protection? - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk

 

[gummycarbs]

Is this even worth considering?

No.

The product you have was formulated to be removed with mineral spirits. Either remove it with mineral spirits or leave it alone. Be aware that spraying oil over it might just dissolve it, too.