Zero Point Calibration

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It's not talked about on this site, but it's a thing in almost all Toyota/Lexus models - zero point calibration.

I have not researched this topic enough to understand it fully, but it's generally recommended after any sort of suspension, alignment, steering rack work, that a zero point calibration be performed on the yaw rate sensor. This calibrates the skid ECU so that it's reading accurately, such that it responds properly to driving conditions.

I'd imagine there's many of us that are due, especially if an alignment has not been performed at a facility that is aware of the procedure. If one gets unexpected VSC intrusions, it's very likely a calibration needs to be performed.

I'm also interested in hacking this... Wonder if this same sensor feeds the ECU/transmission map such that we could effect shift points for larger wheels, by making the vehicle think it's going uphill.
 
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radman

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I've been working on mastering the Height Offset, and have also come across this calibration in the FSM.


I wonder if the dealer even takes the time to perform this, or they're more interested in higher billable items.
 
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LBridges

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I'm sorry for changing the subject, but maybe worth mentioning in the same thread...

For the 2018 and newer models the FSM also states that after the battery has been disconnected for some sort of testing, the following should be done:

NECESSARY PROCEDURE​
EFFECT OR INOPERATIVE FUNCTION WHEN NECESSARY PROCEDURE IS NOT PERFORMED​
Initialization of steering angle sensorVGRS system function
Correction of steering angle neutral pointMulti-terrain monitor system function
Reset back door close positionPower back door system

Don't know if it applies to all the '16+ models (or earlier?). It might and the FSM was just changed to reflect the power back door.
 
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It's not talked about on this site, but it's a thing in almost all Toyota/Lexus models - zero point calibration.

I have not researched this topic enough to understand it fully, but it's generally recommended after any sort of suspension, alignment, steering rack work, that a zero point calibration be performed on the yaw rate sensor. This calibrates the skid ECU so that it's reading accurately, such that it responds properly to driving conditions.

I'd imagine there's many of us that are due, especially if an alignment has not been performed at a facility that is aware of the procedure. If one gets unexpected VSC intrusions, it's very likely a calibration needs to be performed.

I'm also interested in hacking this... Wonder if this same sensor feeds the ECU/transmission map such that we could effect shift points for larger wheels, by making the vehicle think it's going uphill.


HI,
Have ya figures out how to do the zero point calibration?
thanx,
 

4gotalot

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It's not talked about on this site, but it's a thing in almost all Toyota/Lexus models - zero point calibration.

I have not researched this topic enough to understand it fully, but it's generally recommended after any sort of suspension, alignment, steering rack work, that a zero point calibration be performed on the yaw rate sensor. This calibrates the skid ECU so that it's reading accurately, such that it responds properly to driving conditions.

I'd imagine there's many of us that are due, especially if an alignment has not been performed at a facility that is aware of the procedure. If one gets unexpected VSC intrusions, it's very likely a calibration needs to be performed.

I'm also interested in hacking this... Wonder if this same sensor feeds the ECU/transmission map such that we could effect shift points for larger wheels, by making the vehicle think it's going uphill.

After I installed my OME 2" lift I took it to the dealer for an alighnment and reset the yaw rate sensor on my 2011. I received the print out for the alignment and they said they reset the yaw rate sensor. I have 68k miles on the original brake pads now and the rear pads are at 30% remaining and the front still have at least 50% if not 60% remaining. Rotors and brake pedal feel normal. L & R pads are even.

I am guessing that they did not reset the sensor and that's why my rear brakes are wearing a lot faster than the front.
Does this sound like a possibility that that sensor may have control of?
 
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After I installed my OME 2" lift I took it to the dealer for an alighnment and reset the yaw rate sensor on my 2011. I received the print out for the alignment and they said they reset the yaw rate sensor. I have 68k miles on the original brake pads now and the rear pads are at 30% remaining and the front still have at least 50% if not 60% remaining. Rotors and brake pedal feel normal. L & R pads are even.

I am guessing that they did not reset the sensor and that's why my rear brakes are wearing a lot faster than the front.
Does this sound like a possibility that that sensor may have control of?
I have no idea..... just looking for someone that has done the zero point calibration at home WITHOUT a scanner.
 

CharlieS

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Apologies in advance if it isn't helpful - and is opinion only - my only zero point calibrations have been on an Audi, but they required software and a cable (VAG Com). I'd be shocked if you can do it on the cruiser without software (like Techstream).
 
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Sorry guys, I haven't gotten to this on my own car yet. I AHC sensor lifted my car a couple months back about .75". Driving in back mountain roads, the VSC is much more sensitive and intrusive, shutting down the party well before any slip angles. Yes, I expect even the mild lift itself contributes to lower cornering, but I strongly believe I need to calibrate the VSC zero point calibrations as prescribed with any suspension or alignment changes.

By the lack of discussion on the boards of this topic, many of us might have been missing out on more performance.

It looks to be common amongst all Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Lookup youtube for toyota zero point calibration and you can see that it can be done without a software tool. With basics like 2 paperclips to jump a couple pins in the right procedure should do it.

I can't vouch for it yet as I haven't tried. This thread might help
 
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Joined
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Sorry guys, I haven't gotten to this on my own car yet. I AHC sensor lifted my car a couple months back about .75". Driving in back mountain roads, the VSC is much more sensitive and intrusive, shutting down the party well before any slip angles. Yes, I expect even the mild lift itself contributes to lower cornering, but I strongly believe I need to calibrate the VSC zero point calibrations as prescribed with any suspension or alignment changes.

By the lack of discussion on the boards of this topic, many of us might have been missing out on more performance.

It looks to be common amongst all Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Lookup youtube for toyota zero point calibration and you can see that it can be done without a software tool. With basics like 2 paperclips to jump a couple pins in the right procedure should do it.

I can't vouch for it yet as I haven't tried. This thread might help
That's what i'm going to do, jumper the 2 terminals. I don't want to jumper the WRONG 2 so am looking for verification. Which 2 are they and which position are they on the DLC3?
 

4gotalot

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I have no idea..... just looking for someone that has done the zero point calibration at home WITHOUT a scanner.
I have only heard of it being done on a 200 with TS and it has been discussed before some were on this forum. My brake wear info is for other to relate the experience to what the YRS does or does not do. The FSM does want you to reset the YRS to zero after a lift change and that's why I asked them to do it but my guess is they did not.

If you learn more about a paper clip recalibration of the sensor with out TS hooked up to a 200, please let us know.
 
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I have attached a PDF for instructions on how to perform the zero point with or without techstream for a 2013 LC.
1586016316299.png
 

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Thanx much...….
This is what I found that worked on my 2003 LX
zero point calibration
 

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Get your zero point on!

Finally took the car through familiar mountain roads in Julian this morning. Premature "beep beep" is conquered!

After I AHC lifted the car, I found the stability control particularly sensitive. It would kick in before any significant slip angle. Zero point cal'd and the car is back! I can corner with some real aggressiveness again and the stability control is stepping in as appropriate rather than premature.

Everyone that's lifted with tires, suspension mods, alignment, etc., needs to perform this calibration.
 
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Joined
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Getting around to zero cal'ing after the last suspension mods. Hating the premature traction control on and off-road, but I keep forgetting to do this detail.

What the data list looks like after:


1663903372587.png
 

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