Dethreaded recovery point bolts (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 2, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
75
Location
melbourne
Any pointers on tapping new holes for a new rated recovery point? I've never had to tap new threads before, and its a bit daunting doing it into the body but I'm sure I can figure out how to do it properly.

While using a new titan terrain jack on my 08 sahara 200 it lowered too quickly while I lowered the vehicle + rear bar down onto jack stands and ripped the recovery bolts out. I'm surprised- the car didn't drop far, so its probably a blessing this didn't happen in an actual live incident with a snatch strap. On odd thing was that while 3 bolts used 18mm hex heads when checking both sides, 1 bolt had a 19mm hex head which means someone did something strange once upon a time to fit the rear bar.

I'm gonna replace my old bar which has been bent so far it wont fit again. Will replace with a Kaymar bar while I'm at it. Would go with another brand but already have the wheel carriers fitted.

IMG_0F1FF6D428A7-1.jpeg
 
Stock bolts are all 17mm head in that location, so something definitely wasn't right.

Personally I'd verify they even have the stock thread and haven't already been tapped. The stock bolts are pretty fine thread for an M12.. I can't remember the pitch off hand but they are the same as for the front recovery points.
 
M12 x 1.25mm (fine thread). Did the bolts break in the frame? Do you have a picture of the frame? Depending on the condition they might be able to be thread-chased to clean them up (if I am understanding the problem correctly).
 
Yeah, something fishy going on. Maybe previously cross threaded, improperly torqued bolt then loaded, etc. The thread at the current size even cleaned up with a tap doesn't have enough meat to be reliable or safe. I would drill it out for the next size up. With the proper size bit and tap. New threads. Use up sized bolts or helicoil back to factory sized bolts.
 
@Queglay do you have a photo of the frame?
 
Considering a clean bolt didn’t hold, using the existing size hole is not on the cards. I’ll get a picture today.
 
Does look to be 1.25mm pitch. Damaged bolt measures as 11.5mm so probably m12. I think just the bolt hex head was different. The vehicle does have kaymar wheel carriers installed, so I wonder if the kaymar kit id supposed to come with longer bolts to account for the wheel carrier plate

IMG_9405.jpeg


IMG_9402.jpeg
 
Can anyone confirm the original length of the thread for the bolt? I get 50mm. Hoping that kaymar supplied a longer bolt. What i don’t get is there is an extra plate between the wheel carrier and the frame.

 
The captive nuts in the frame can sometimes move. Instead of moving the nut back, maybe they just screwed in one that kinda fit but hanging by partial threads.
 
How can you even replace that captive nut? Looks to be well locked in place. Sure would be nice if its an option.

I have no experience with helicoils but learning now. One thing I'm not sure about is getting it flush just to where the captive nut is, and what would happen if the coil was not the right length to match.

Measuring the distance to the back of the nut to the plate, is 35 mm, nut sure about the length of the threaded section of the captive nut exactly though.
 
Those captive nuts don't have a lot of meat to remove. They aren't built like a typical hex nut.. more like a thread insert with a flange that is welded to the inside of the frame (afaik)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom