YAIT - Yet another idle thread... (2 Viewers)

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Yes it has revved to 2200+ RPM on cold start from time to time. Never a regular thing.
And I think that when it did that revving (on mine), it was not in any way related to injectors. It was the low idle, rough idle, and eventually a full blow intermittent misfire that the replacement of injectors fixed. Just throwing it out there that it could be a similar issue. Like I said, it's not a popular option to look at injectors, take it or leave it just sharing my experience. Maybe it was not the injectors themselves but the seals at the injector tips where they seal against the intake manifold. They looked OK to me, but I did not do any checking for vacuum leaks there.
 
I ordered the brake booster vacuum line, check valve grommet, a new dipstick seal, and an IAC oring, so we'll eliminate those as potential issues.

So far it likes that 10 degrees BTDC timing a lot!

Here's what we're working on:

View attachment 3413341

Yeah, mine really appreciated some more timing advance. Hope it's the final piece of the puzzle for your 👍
 
I had a similar issue and it was that my MAF sensor connector would come just slightly loose from the sensor housing. It still happens from time to time after extended washboard road driving. My CEL will come on, idle will get rough when in D, and start to dip and become rough.

I shut off the rig, disconnect the battery, firmly press in the MAF connector, fire everything back up and then the rig is back to normal.

Someone posted a thread about adjusting the terminal prongs in the connector so that they are tighter and don't come loose.

Just one more piece of food for thought.
 
Have you checked your VAF connection for corrosion on the contacts?
If you have it apart adding some corrosion inhibitor like ACF50 will help, the actual load through the unit is low so any corrosion has a big negative effect!
Once again, that was my idle problem.
 
Have you checked your VAF connection for corrosion on the contacts?
If you have it apart adding some corrosion inhibitor like ACF50 will help, the actual load through the unit is low so any corrosion has a big negative effect!
Once again, that was my idle problem.
I just pulled the connector, and there didn't seem to have any corrosion or pitting on either the plug side (female) or VAF side (male) pins. I sprayed both sides with DeOxit and ran the connector in and out a couple of times.
 
I just pulled the connector, and there didn't seem to have any corrosion or pitting on either the plug side (female) or VAF side (male) pins. I sprayed both sides with DeOxit and ran the connector in and out a couple of times.
U can also pull back the boot and check the values as prescribed in the FSM to eliminate bad connectors.

Just because a connector is plugged in doesn’t mean it’s conducting they way it is supposed to be.

A loose female plug will have issues from a male plug if they are not tight.
 
This was wrong. I was corrected below. The readings were in spec.

The VAF meter failed on-vehicle inspection.
Only
0.328 k ohms (edited: this is 328 ohms) between VS and E2, where the acceptable resistance range is 200 to 600 ohms.

THA to E2 (maybe idle air temp sensor) was in range at 2.263 k ohms at 73 degrees fahrenheit, where the acceptable resistance is 2-3 k ohms at 68 degrees fahrenheit. Seems in the right ballpark.

IMG_2360.jpeg


Anyone know the part number for the VAF, so I can try to source a used one?
 
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The VAF meter failed on-vehicle inspection.

Only 0.328 k ohms between VS and E2, where the acceptable resistance range is 200 to 600 ohms.

THA to E2 (maybe idle air temp sensor) was in range at 2.263 k ohms at 73 degrees fahrenheit, where the acceptable resistance is 2-3 k ohms at 68 degrees fahrenheit. Seems in the right ballpark.

View attachment 3414713

Anyone know the part number for the VAF, so I can try to source a used one?

11/92

22250-66010

image.jpg
 
The VAF meter failed on-vehicle inspection.i

Only 0.328 k ohms between VS and E2, where the acceptable resistance range is 200 to 600 ohms.

THA to E2 (maybe idle air temp sensor) was in range at 2.263 k ohms at 73 degrees fahrenheit, where the acceptable resistance is 2-3 k ohms at 68 degrees fahrenheit. Seems in the right ballpark.

View attachment 3414713

Anyone know the part number for the VAF, so I can try to source a used one?
Looks good from here, 0.328 k equates to 328 ohms
 
Thank you! So it actually passes the on vehicle test? Thanks.

Guess I remove it and do the door resistance test now.
 
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Thank you! I am so hopeless with the metric system. So it actually passes the on vehicle test? Thanks.

Guess I remove it and do the door resistance test now.

Resistance and other electrical measurements are just that. Not Metric or SAE. :bang::deadhorse:
 
Door resistance measurement falls in the acceptable reading range at fully open and fully closed.

314 ohms fully closed (should be 200-600 ohms)
68 ohms fully open (should be 20-1200 ohms)

The readings going through the sweep of the range are very non-linear, but a note in the fsm calls that out.

IMG_2361.jpeg
 
Almost forgot - also try running with the 02 sensors disconnected and see how it does. Mine were not throwing codes but it ran a lot better (albeit rich) when they were disconnected. Might not be the issue but worth checking as a possible contributor to the problem.

I replaced them around the same time all of the other adjustments were being made but didn't take notes if I did them before or after.

@ZackR @OffRoadScott - I finally got a chance to disconnect the O2 sensors and road test it. And it idles like a sewing machine...

What does this tell me?

Does the ECM kick into open loop mode when the O2 sensors are disconnected? If so, doesn't this mean it is basically ignoring the sensor inputs, so it could be any input sensor - O2, ECT, VAF temp circuit, what else?

It seems like if it idles steady as a rock in this condition I am not chasing vacuum leaks anymore... Is that a correct assumption?

The O2 sensors are brand new, Denso units for the 95-97 with the plug trimmed per 'mud guidance, installed in the PAIR openings in the exhaust manifold.

It runs amazingly without the O2 sensors plugged in. Almost enough that I'm tempted to leave them unplugged and live with a CEL. But I really want it to run properly with them connected.

Any guidance or advice?

Note, I used these: Denso 234-4153 Oxygen Sensor https://a.co/d/9Kr0OEQ
 
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What does this tell me?

That with enough bandaids, you can't see the problem anymore.

Any guidance or advice?

Undo the changes you made that caused the problems in the first place:


You 1) didn't start from a known baseline, 2) made a bunch of modifications and 3) are looking everywhere *but* at the modifications.
 
That with enough bandaids, you can't see the problem anymore.



Undo the changes you made that caused the problems in the first place:


You 1) didn't start from a known baseline, 2) made a bunch of modifications and 3) are looking everywhere *but* at the modifications.
I'm not reverting to the way it came because it had 300K of worn out components and deferred maintenance.

I'd love to get some helpful advice from you, but nothing you've posted on my threads has been helpful. Most of it is just mean spirited. Do you have anything nice or helpful to add?
 
Did you repin the o2s? I always ran the correct ntk o2s with no issues in the manifold. I also had everything removed for emissions and all vacuum lines pulled except for the one u see the tps and one for fuel pressure.
 
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Did you repin the o2s? I always ran the correct ntk o2s with no issues in the manifold. I also had everything removed for emissions and all vacuum lines pulled except for the one u see the tps and one for fuel pressure
 

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