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Excellent! This is a very important thread. I, for one, will be following along. Thank You, for taking the time and the brain cells, to help all of us. If my post, muddies up your informational thread, please free to delete it. The only thing, I can offer, is alittle long distance encouragement! :cheers:
 
Lil'John said:
Here is the third set of pictures of the stock FJ60 heater assembly.

The first picture shows the bottom of the heater assembly. Worth noting is the removed foot duct. To the right is a swing arm. This controls the door that prevents the AC cooled air from going through the heater core.

The second picture shows the vent section. The little cylinder on the right with the yellow X on it is removed. This is just for a cleaner look.

The third picture shows the vent section removed.

It looks like the images for this post never made it up.
 
Lil'John said:
So, my first attempt will be option 1. I'm going to cut the fan box and pray for the best. (anyone have any ideas for plastic "gluing"?)

ABS cement ;). You can get it at your local Home Depot/Lowes, you just need to find a piece of the same type of plastic to mate up -

Tucker
 
So Lil' John, the areas that you're having fitment problems, are the ebrake handle and the vacuum shift handle, light switch area. On the floor shifter, is that still in the stock location.

I know, you like the vacuum shift handle and want to keep your ebrake handle there, but maybe it would be easier, to mount them on the floor and leave the fan box alone.

Just thinking out loud
 
So, in mine, there is no ebrake handle there and no lower dash, where the vacuum shifter is. I'm guessing that it would fit alittle easier, without all that hardware.

Also, you said. that the firewall holes would have to be filled in. The 60 model, doesn't use those openings? Just cab air or do you have to make new air openings. I know the water lines and a/c lines will have to come through, but no air.
 
LJ, out of curiosity, why did you go with a used 60 a/c vs. buying a new kit from one of the many vendors like Vintage Air etc.? Was it to save money? I am all about saving a few bucks, but the kits sold look pretty reasonably priced and I would hope they will work better than an old 60 a/c system. Thanks, Mark
 
Pablo said it best----Excellent resource--great job LJ
 
The main reason I'm attempting this is a height issue. From most of the pictures/measurements I've seen show the aftermarket ones to be VERY tall. Too tall for the early FJ55 with vacuum shift bit.

Most kits are in the $1k+ range. But I doubt I'm going to save any money on this... actually, depending upon how much I end up replacing, I could be a lot cheaper. The hoses could add up to a bunch($300). The condesner was $50. A new drier will be $20-$30.

Filling in the stock heater hole will not be a cheap fix. I don't do sheet metal:lol: Doing some custom ducting will also not be cheap.

Sounds like you will come in under that amount. I bet if you find the hoses locally, they will be less than online? With all your talent I am sure you could weld. You should give it a try, it's easy. I did see a slim line a/c unit somewhere tho. Keep posting, thanks.
 
Nice work! I just happened on this thread and while I don't have a 55 anymore, this is an interesting project. The BMW condenser is a tube and fin design, cheap but not very efficient. What about using a universal parallel flow condenser? Something like the one pictured below. They are typically thinner than the tube/fin, and yes, it will cost more, but it will work with R134a where the BMW one will be marginal unless used with R12.
24-50021.jpg
 
I'm not above going to the parallel flow condenser. What is a typical price on one?

In your opinion, what needs to be updated when converting to R134a? From what I've read, o-rings and drier were always mentioned. What about expansion valve? AC expansion core? AC lines? AC condenser?

Prices vary depending on size, but for one measuring 18"W x 16"H runs $95.

As far as necessary changes to use R134a, the condenser is probably the most needed. The drier needs to be compatible with R134a, the stock expansion valve and evaporator will work just fine, the hoses might need to be changed to use newer style barrier hose to contain the R134a. Most all A/C o-rings are compatible with both refrigerants.
 
Coolstream said:
Prices vary depending on size, but for one measuring 18"W x 16"H runs $95.

As far as necessary changes to use R134a, the condenser is probably the most needed. The drier needs to be compatible with R134a, the stock expansion valve and evaporator will work just fine, the hoses might need to be changed to use newer style barrier hose to contain the R134a. Most all A/C o-rings are compatible with both refrigerants.

I thought expansion valve was different for R134a?
Cool, learn something new today!
 
Is this the best size for sitting in front of Piggy radiator?

Strictly a guess on my part. The BMW condenser core measures 16"W x 13"H x 1"D and from the picture of it mounted in the Piggy, it looks to me that the 18 x 16 would be close. FWIW, a supplier I deal with now makes that BMW condenser in a parallel-flow design. P & A to be announced soon.
 
Strictly a guess on my part. The BMW condenser core measures 16"W x 13"H x 1"D and from the picture of it mounted in the Piggy, it looks to me that the 18 x 16 would be close. FWIW, a supplier I deal with now makes that BMW condenser in a parallel-flow design. P & A to be announced soon.

Very cool information!
I am watching this thread closely as I want to revive the A/C in my '74
My understanding is that it is dealer installed, just a knob under the dash, no seperate vents.
If I use parallel flow condenser for R134a, can I still use the old evaporator in my dash and expect decent performance out of the R134a?

I am probably borderline on needing to start my own thread...
 
Very close guess on the size. I just got some measurements for the BMW core:
1 3/8" deep.
14 1/4"H core... plus another 3/8" for feet bracket (forgot top bracket)
15 1/2"W core... 17 3/4" overall width

The depth is maximum depth you can have for a condenser if you want to fit it behind the hood latch item.

The measurement for the pig area is:
22"W... this is inside of the front lip.
~15 3/4" tall... this is assuming max width. There is that horse shoe dip in the middle that I did not measure.

If you do not sneak under the hood latch area, you will loose 2" of height.

So the BMW piece fits?
 
With some slight modifications, it fits perfectly:
attachment.php


I'm fighting a few drivability issues thus no updates yet. Hopefully after this weekend, I'll be able to hit this again.:mad:

Ooh, nice pic!

That is the parallel flow unit for R134a?

Could I see close-ups of how you mounted it?
 

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