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Lil'John said:Here is the third set of pictures of the stock FJ60 heater assembly.
The first picture shows the bottom of the heater assembly. Worth noting is the removed foot duct. To the right is a swing arm. This controls the door that prevents the AC cooled air from going through the heater core.
The second picture shows the vent section. The little cylinder on the right with the yellow X on it is removed. This is just for a cleaner look.
The third picture shows the vent section removed.
Lil'John said:So, my first attempt will be option 1. I'm going to cut the fan box and pray for the best. (anyone have any ideas for plastic "gluing"?)
The main reason I'm attempting this is a height issue. From most of the pictures/measurements I've seen show the aftermarket ones to be VERY tall. Too tall for the early FJ55 with vacuum shift bit.
Most kits are in the $1k+ range. But I doubt I'm going to save any money on this... actually, depending upon how much I end up replacing, I could be a lot cheaper. The hoses could add up to a bunch($300). The condesner was $50. A new drier will be $20-$30.
Filling in the stock heater hole will not be a cheap fix. I don't do sheet metal Doing some custom ducting will also not be cheap.
I'm not above going to the parallel flow condenser. What is a typical price on one?
In your opinion, what needs to be updated when converting to R134a? From what I've read, o-rings and drier were always mentioned. What about expansion valve? AC expansion core? AC lines? AC condenser?
Coolstream said:Prices vary depending on size, but for one measuring 18"W x 16"H runs $95.
As far as necessary changes to use R134a, the condenser is probably the most needed. The drier needs to be compatible with R134a, the stock expansion valve and evaporator will work just fine, the hoses might need to be changed to use newer style barrier hose to contain the R134a. Most all A/C o-rings are compatible with both refrigerants.
Is this the best size for sitting in front of Piggy radiator?
Strictly a guess on my part. The BMW condenser core measures 16"W x 13"H x 1"D and from the picture of it mounted in the Piggy, it looks to me that the 18 x 16 would be close. FWIW, a supplier I deal with now makes that BMW condenser in a parallel-flow design. P & A to be announced soon.
Very close guess on the size. I just got some measurements for the BMW core:
1 3/8" deep.
14 1/4"H core... plus another 3/8" for feet bracket (forgot top bracket)
15 1/2"W core... 17 3/4" overall width
The depth is maximum depth you can have for a condenser if you want to fit it behind the hood latch item.
The measurement for the pig area is:
22"W... this is inside of the front lip.
~15 3/4" tall... this is assuming max width. There is that horse shoe dip in the middle that I did not measure.
If you do not sneak under the hood latch area, you will loose 2" of height.
With some slight modifications, it fits perfectly:
I'm fighting a few drivability issues thus no updates yet. Hopefully after this weekend, I'll be able to hit this again.