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Kaon shock skids did not hold up as well as I'd hoped. Here is the before and after. A difficult stretch on Elephant Hill in Canyonlands destroyed both sides. Glad I had them, they did their job but I may be looking for some BudBuilt replacements.

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I just destroyed a set of Kaon Shock guards this weekend, first trip with them on actually...
Not HD at all, fine for overlanding but not for anything with a Rock around to possibly hit them.
 
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I just destroyed a set of Kaon Shock guards this weekend, first trip with them on actually...
Not HD at all, fine for overlanding but not for anything with a Rock around to possibly hit them.
Ha Ha, first trip for me too. These were not designed for Moab 😂
 
Same here. I "use" my rig but this happened on an after trail of last years LCDC in a mud hole I followed others through without checking to see what was below the surface. Large rock/boulder others missed. I also sheared a nut off the UCA bolt someway somehow. IMO, the BB guard did its job taking the brunt of the damage and giving way before any major component damage.

now for the mudhole...I'll be checking those a bit before going through. Lol
So does that bud built shock skid mount on the shock bolt? Looks like from the pictures on their website it mounts on the shock bolt with a tab on the inside of the slider, then a bolt on either side. Not sure I'm crazy about it mounting to the shock - If that is indeed how it mounts.
 
So does that bud built shock skid mount on the shock bolt? Looks like from the pictures on their website it mounts on the shock bolt with a tab on the inside of the slider, then a bolt on either side. Not sure I'm crazy about it mounting to the shock - If that is indeed how it mounts.
Yeah it utilizes the existing bolt locations. There have been discussions about different mounting options but from my experience the pluses outweigh the negatives.

Like others mine is not a rock crawler rig; run 33" tires but haven't avoided the "rocky" trails in the popular states. Probably cause I dont know what i dont know. Lol. Ive run the steel BB armor nose to tail for 5 years now and recommend them. A ton of R&D has gone into his products.
 
Here's a shot of how the Trail Tailor version attaches, there is a bolt thru that hole in the front as well as the one higher up that can be seen

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Yeah it utilizes the existing bolt locations. There have been discussions about different mounting options but from my experience the pluses outweigh the negatives.

Like others mine is not a rock crawler rig; run 33" tires but haven't avoided the "rocky" trails in the popular states. Probably cause I dont know what i dont know. Lol. Ive run the steel BB armor nose to tail for 5 years now and recommend them. A ton of R&D has gone into his products.
Ok, so looks like on yours that shock mount tab broke and peeled the guard back? Yeah mine is not a rock crawler rig either, but to be honest it has easily crawled up stuff I wouldn't have considered previously - which makes me less worried about crawling up more stuff in the future, lol. But of course I want to protect it with armor in the vulnerable spots. The more I get the 200 out on adventures the more I love it for it's capability and comfort.
 
Here's a shot of how the Trail Tailor version attaches, there is a bolt thru that hole in the front as well as the one higher up that can be seen

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thanks for this. I had read somewhere the trail tailor skids require self tapping? Looks from your picture like they use exiting holes to mount.
 
Ok, so looks like on yours that shock mount tab broke and peeled the guard back? Yeah mine is not a rock crawler rig either, but to be honest it has easily crawled up stuff I wouldn't have considered previously - which makes me less worried about crawling up more stuff in the future, lol. But of course I want to protect it with armor in the vulnerable spots. The more I get the 200 out on adventures the more I love it for it's capability and comfort.
Yep that's what it did...I hit mud hole/destructor object at about 10 to 15 mph, loud bang, shudder from front right then left rear, abrupt deceleration. Lol. Brunt of strike was on the weld which broke and then it just peeled it back.
It was that wrong speed, wrong place hit. Buuttt I'm soooo glad I had the armor. I'll be installing the replacement before heading up to Montana and this year's LCDC.

Heard good things about Trail Tailors version as well. I think you can't go wrong with either BB or TT.
 
thanks for this. I had read somewhere the trail tailor skids require self tapping? Looks from your picture like they use exiting holes to mount.
The TT parts for the rlca front mount requires drilling the mount and putting in some self tappers. I have those as well.
 
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Wired up some ARB Solis Lights. Debated between these and the Baja Designs LP9. I might change at some point, but these are more affordable and put out tons of light. I opted for both flood because I live in the boonies with lots of wildlife and wanted a really wide pattern so I can see the deer hopping fences to cross the road. They work great.

I don't like tapping into stock wiring harnesses if there is another option, so I purchased a headlight jumper from Australia which made the install pretty simple. The jumper sends power to the spots when my high beams are on. I need to figure out how to interrupt that power with my switchpro or something so I have to option to turn them off all together.
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Apologies if I missed a subsequent post on this.

I have LP9s attached to a standard OEM style switch. Do you think that by including this in the setup I would be able to first press the button under the dash and THEN activate the driving lights with the high beam stalk? That’s what I’m looking to accomplish but I’m unfamiliar with this piggy back adapter approach. Thanks for any insight! Again, I love how your build has progressed
 
Apologies if I missed a subsequent post on this.

I have LP9s attached to a standard OEM style switch. Do you think that by including this in the setup I would be able to first press the button under the dash and THEN activate the driving lights with the high beam stalk? That’s what I’m looking to accomplish but I’m unfamiliar with this piggy back adapter approach. Thanks for any insight! Again, I love how your build has progressed
I've had vehicles with spots wired that way so I know if can be done. I have never wired it myself so I'm not sure how you would do it.

I think if you have the LP9 attached to an OEM switch already you would just add the Stedi harness so that the LP9 only get power when your brights are on. Make sense? Someone with more wiring knowledge can probably explain that better.
 
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I've had vehicles with spots wired that way so I know if can be done. I have never wired it myself so I'm not sure how you would do it.

I think if you have the LP9 attached to an OEM switch already you would just add the Stedi harness so that the LP9 only get power when your brights are on. Make sense? Someone with more wiring knowledge can probably explain that better.
That would be my guess as well. The main goal is to just make it more intuitive/easy to flip the lights on and off.

I have definitely, inadvertently of course, blinded cars that may be on a side road or the like because I was a second too slow in turning the lights off. The high beam stalk would be faster and more intuitive in those situations…
 
That would be my guess as well. The main goal is to just make it more intuitive/easy to flip the lights on and off.

I have definitely, inadvertently of course, blinded cars that may be on a side road or the like because I was a second too slow in turning the lights off. The high beam stalk would be faster and more intuitive in those situations…
Exactly. Thinking about it, that is exactly how my Solis lights were wired before I moved the switch to the switchpro. I wish I had documented how I wired that.

The switchpro has a brights trigger but it seems to override the switch which is not ideal. I'm sure there is a way to do it with the switchpro too, I just don't know how yet. On my list of things to fine tune.
 
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Installed Bud Built rear shock skids. I think I'm going to have to remove the plastic rock guards from the BP51. It's quite difficult to adjust the shocks now with both rock guards and the skids mounted.
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My @sleeoffroad slider tread plates have been losing their finish. Whatever coating they used started flaking within the first year or so. I was just going to order some new tread plates, but I had a bottle of black raptor liner sitting around. I decided to just recoat them and see if the raptor liner holds up any better than whatever Slee had used. I don't love the look of the raptor liner, so I may order some replacement plates from Slee. Ok for now though and seems to be holding up well. Love these sliders, Slee makes some great stuff.
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FWIW - Update on my antenna location. After taking several trips with it mounted here we have found that if my travel companions are behind me the reception is great. If they are in front of me, they sometimes have issues understanding me. It probably needs to be moved to the front bumper - I don't want it there so we'll just deal with it, or maybe get a stubby for the front bumper instead. Just an FYI for anyone considering this mounting location. I do like how it's more discreet back here.

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Black bear. Cool trail, maybe over hyped? Other than one spot above the falls, not that scary. Switchbacks were no big deal. Great trail, don't get me wrong. We returned to Imogene, engineer, corkscrew etc. Always a fantastic time in Ouray. This time my 14 year old drove a lot of it and we had a great time together.
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I felt like the steps were the most memorable part of the trail but the toughest obstacle is actually the two off camber rock ledges just before the steps. I also thought the pucker factor was a little overhyped, but tough to beat those views dropping into Telluride.

For what it's worth I think the bed liner on the step actually looks pretty cool and rugged.
 

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