WTF is breaking my distributors? (1 Viewer)

[Mark W]

You can see in his photos that the pin in his distributor is hollow, so no need to wonder about other people's distributors.


(EDIT: Snap another pic of the gear if you want... with no lint or debris so we can see it bettter. From what I can see here, I would reuse it with no worries.)



The end of the dist shaft me have already been damaged or eroded from moisture in the past. The gear coming loose will not damage the end of the shaft.

The simplest way to quickly get a pin that is a snug but easily installed press fit would be to find a drill bit that is the right size. drill bits come in am amazing variety of sizes. You might not find the exact sixe at Lowes though. But it is worth checking. You might find some round rod stock that will fit too. Take the dist and gear with you and see what fits.

If you can't find any, or if the hole in the gear has been damaged by the failure, you could find a pieces of round rod that is slightly larger and drill the holes in the gear and shaft out for a snug fit.

One advantage of using rod stock is that you can peen the ends over to lock it in place. If you use a drill bit it will be harder and not peen easily. if you do not have a snug interference fit it might be harder to be sure the harder pin you wind up with is securely locked in place.

Drill bit would likely resist shear better, but any solid pin should be plenty strong.

If you have a welder, a small spot weld on one end of the pin, to the gear would also lock it in place.

Do also make sure that the dist spins freely before you go to the effort of repairing it.


Mark...

 

[daveIT]

I'll snap another pic of gear tomorrow when I have some sunlight.

 

[ntsqd]

Not as good as a solid pin, but a different option is to drive a second roll pin inside the first roll pin. This doubled pin is a common thing to find in some industries where the installment ease of the roll pin is needed, but the shear strength of a single pin isn't enough for the need. If you do this be absolutely, positively sure that the splits are 180* from each other. Under NO circumstances should they align directly on top of one another. AND, neither of them should be horizontal when the shaft is vertical.

 

[daveIT]

So the dizzy gear just seemed to have some burrs, so I've lightly filed those off.

I'm going to drop the oil pan and check out the oil pump...seems like something is still going on to jam something...maybe when I turn the truck just the right way or something...maybe some loose oil pump bolts? I'll pull the oil pump and check it out. How long are these expected to last? My truck has almost 214K.

From the 2F engine manual I downloaded, it looks like I can possibly just replace the gears or body. Is it best to go with an OEM or something else--have oil pumps been improved since 1984?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

From the 2F engine manual I downloaded, it looks like I can possibly just replace the gears or body. Is it best to go with an OEM or something else--have oil pumps been improved since 1984?

No changes to the oil pump since the end of the 76 model run.

If you have decided to replace the oil pump, I would replace the entire thing as a unit. It's quite simple and attaches with 1 bolt that I would for sure locktite in place.

You can get Toyota or Aisin aftermarket ones. I would avoid anything else.

 

[lehiguy]

No changes to the oil pump since the end of the 76 model run.

If you have decided to replace the oil pump, I would replace the entire thing as a unit. It's quite simple and attaches with 1 bolt that I would for sure locktite in place.

You can get Toyota or Aisin aftermarket ones. I would avoid anything else.

I would vote for feshening up the one you have be reversing the gears inside and making sure the button plate is perfectly flat. I watched a machinist do this once and I was surprised how easy it was and my oil pressure went up afterwards.

 

[Mark W]

The oil pump is a damn simple unit. Not much that can go wrong. Really no way for anything to be loose or for anything to get into it to jam.

Reversing the gears and smoothing the top plate will give yoiu a like new pump (a piece of sandpaper on glass or perfectly flat steel works well to "mill" it flat).


Mark...

 

[daveIT]

Oil pan ?

Do these bolts in the front of the oil pan need to come off for me to remove it? Not sure if it's those or a crapload of gasket sealer holding it on..

I have the engine manual but it doesn't show dropping the pan.

Any trick to popping it off? I have a couple jack stands under is since I don't know how heavy it is.

 

[Mark W]

Those bolts do not need to come off.

The pan weights a couple of pounds I would say.


Mark...

 

[Pighead]

It's quite simple and attaches with 1 bolt that I would for sure locktite in place.

...Two bolts.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

The support for the shaft attaches with 2 bolts to the side of the block. The pump itself is 1 small bolt.

And Pighead-you can come over and see for yourself in a few weeks as my FJ40 blew an engine amoung other adventures you missed last week. LOL.

 

[Mark W]

You have to pull the oil supply shaft too. That is another bolt (fitting around the tube actually) to the block.


Mark...

 

[daveIT]

Sweet got it off...just needed to use my big boy muscles...do I need to replace the whole gasket or just scrape the sealant off the oil pan and shove it back on?

Anyway, I think I might have found the culprit...about 46 shear pins worth of metal in the oil pan! This was all in the pan, there are some more pieces in the container I drained the oil into. Haha. So I'm guessing some of this is getting thrown up and jamming, snapping my shear pin?

The oil pump looks pretty good from the outside. Not loose at all...I'm sure it was Loctite'd in since it was a bitch to get off. The top is labeled TEQ and the bottom Aisin. Not sure if the bottom part was replaced before...it looks newer and is a different color. I still need to pull it apart and check the insides out.

Let me know what you think!

Some pics:

 

[daveIT]

You have to pull the oil supply shaft too. That is another bolt (fitting around the tube actually) to the block.


Mark...

Actually it was 1 bolt and a nut....

Thanks to all you folks for all your help and insight for my so far in the thread!

Virtual s for all

 

[Mark W]

Your pump is normal. The top is steel and the bottom as aluminum.

what are the fragments from? Are they steel or Aluminum?

Post some closeups of them.


mark...

 

[daveIT]

It's all pieces of the shear pins...

 

[Spike Strip]

Are you able to take a pic of the section of CAM that turns the distributor gear ?

 

[daveIT]

Not yet, I tried before but couldn't get a good pic. Maybe with the oil pan dropped I can shine a light up. It's overcast now, I'll try if the sun comes back out.

___

EDIT:

This is about as good as I can get...I used my Streamlight TLR-1 from my Glock as the light source (I took it off, I would never point my Glock at the Land Cruiser!) That thing heats up pretty good if you leave it on for a few minutes!

 

[NCFJ]

I'd follow the advise posted above and put a solid pin in there. I would still want to know what was binding up. Maybe run a solid pin for a week or so, pull it and check it for odd wear. Sure was a mess in your pan, a good flush is in your future.

 

[ntsqd]

Might just be the pic, but that cam gear doesn't look too good to me.