Flywheel? Really? I thought that'd be covered up by the transmission bell housing.
What am I missing
What am I missing
Wrenchin' central
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
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Bomar
SILVER Star
There is an inspection plate to view for timing...
Yep. That is weird 
1. before you start make sure you know what your timing mark looks like. On the 2F engine it looks like a "bb" pressed into the fly wheel. This timing mark represents 7 degrees before top dead center. (next to the BB is a scribed line. This is TDC. You use this for valve adjustments, etc., but not for setting your timing). You might think about marking it with a dab of white paint or bright nail polish or something. To find it (and clean it off) the first time, I find it's easiest to crawl under the truck and remove the clutch inspection cover. This gives you a much larger view of the front of the fly wheel where the timing mark will be.
2. The timing mark for the 2F is on the front of the flywheel, not on the crank pulley. There is a sliding window on the front of the bell housing on the right side of the engine. Open the window and you will see the pointer. The object is to line the timing mark up with the pointer.
3. Your engine should be warm and the idle speed should be adjusted properly to spec. Because the distributor has a centrifugal advance if the engine is running too fast, the timing will be off.
4. before you check and adjust your timing you need to remove both vacuum lines from the distributor vacuum advance diaphragms and to plug them. Make sure you keep track which is which so you can put them back onto the correct diaphragm. The inside diaphragm is the main vacuum advance. The outside is for the high altitude compensation. You want to plug the lines when you remove them so you don't have a vacuum leak.
1. before you start make sure you know what your timing mark looks like. On the 2F engine it looks like a "bb" pressed into the fly wheel. This timing mark represents 7 degrees before top dead center. (next to the BB is a scribed line. This is TDC. You use this for valve adjustments, etc., but not for setting your timing). You might think about marking it with a dab of white paint or bright nail polish or something. To find it (and clean it off) the first time, I find it's easiest to crawl under the truck and remove the clutch inspection cover. This gives you a much larger view of the front of the fly wheel where the timing mark will be.
2. The timing mark for the 2F is on the front of the flywheel, not on the crank pulley. There is a sliding window on the front of the bell housing on the right side of the engine. Open the window and you will see the pointer. The object is to line the timing mark up with the pointer.
3. Your engine should be warm and the idle speed should be adjusted properly to spec. Because the distributor has a centrifugal advance if the engine is running too fast, the timing will be off.
4. before you check and adjust your timing you need to remove both vacuum lines from the distributor vacuum advance diaphragms and to plug them. Make sure you keep track which is which so you can put them back onto the correct diaphragm. The inside diaphragm is the main vacuum advance. The outside is for the high altitude compensation. You want to plug the lines when you remove them so you don't have a vacuum leak.
This might help, found this write up on it linked into a couple discussions on advancing the timing:
Ignition timing for the 4500cc petrol motor
Problem is that I don't have the timing light and no clue what it all means.....
Ignition timing for the 4500cc petrol motor
Problem is that I don't have the timing light and no clue what it all means.....
I gots the light, and I SEE the light. Sounds like this is written by someone not in the US.
Is advancing the timing commonly done with success in 80s tech?
Are the US & non-US computer programming pretty much the same?
We could really advance it and run race gas!
Is advancing the timing commonly done with success in 80s tech?
Are the US & non-US computer programming pretty much the same?
We could really advance it and run race gas!
I like your plan!!
I dunno if it's done that commonly, but I think it's in the FAQ section on the 80 Tech. I'm willing to play with it on the LX if one of y'all is crazy enough to help me in this madness, and I'm thinking (probably my downfall) that we can always turn it back if'n we go too far.
Thoughts?
I dunno if it's done that commonly, but I think it's in the FAQ section on the 80 Tech. I'm willing to play with it on the LX if one of y'all is crazy enough to help me in this madness, and I'm thinking (probably my downfall) that we can always turn it back if'n we go too far.
Thoughts?
Bomar
SILVER Star
I just turning my dizzy until the motor pinged under acceleration then backed it off a bit.. and after the valve adjustment to the correct direction of the dizzy my motor is rocking and rolling with more power..
Yeah, I saw a couple posts saying that some peeps didn't have the timing light or just went for it and advanced the timing a bit without going into diagnostic mode. The thought crossed my mind to take the shortcut, but it's running fine right now, and if I cause issues resulting in a blown head gasket, I'd be wishing I didn't cowboy it. But I'm still pondering it...
Me and the Dremel attacked the broken off bolt today, and managed to get it out!! Unfortunately, the local Yota stealership didn't have a replacement bolt in stock, so I'm using the NAPA scab part. Trying to decide whether it's worth it to get CDAN to send the OEM, or just live with the fact that I've veered off the OEM path of righteousness....
Waiting on my 54mm socket to come in to start the front fun and games!
Waiting on my 54mm socket to come in to start the front fun and games!
Bomar
SILVER Star
Slabsides45 said:
Awesome to hear... If it is just a bolt be all crazy and run the Napa...
Yeah, that's me... all crazy and livin' on the edge.... I even pushed the envelope and used a generic 1/4" washer on it. Full throttle, baby.
Glad to hear you got the bolt out. Sounds like it was much easier than David's broken bolts.
I have that 54mm socket if you'd rather just borrow it. I can't imagine you'll use it very often. If you want it, I can bring it to work tomorrow.
Thanks for the offer, but I'd already ordered it from Northern Tool. Got it for around $20 shipped, so not too bad and I'll have it to remind me of what a twit I was to fall for this Cruiser madness...
Now I'm just working up to the job.....
Now I'm just working up to the job.....
Any of utes know much about steel plate? Say... as an example... if some schmo was to build a rear bumper, what kind of steel would do it? Could you use A36, 3/16" and gusset the poo outta it to make that do the job?
I would use 3/16" myself.
Oh wait, I DID use 3/16"!
It will be plenty strong if you design it right. most of the aftermarket bumpers are 3/16 or less, except for a few keys pieces.
Oh wait, I DID use 3/16"!
It will be plenty strong if you design it right. most of the aftermarket bumpers are 3/16 or less, except for a few keys pieces.
It comes in a 6"x20' flat stock. I like it cause it's easy to work with and gives you lots of straight edges.
Six inches? Can't I get it bigger? I talked to a guy in Memfrica today about a 4'x8' sheet of 3/16" for around $125.00. Is that a fair price?
Considering doing the score-and-bend technique that Guzzla used in his thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/591744-custom-rear-bumper-wheel-carrier.html
...with a little cardboard mockup first to get the lines just so ( and sans the wider wings on the quarter panels).
I like the looks of the one shown on wildyoats.com:
http://www.wildyoats.com/80_series_rear_bumper.htm
I like the simple lines of that one....
Along the same line of thought, can a plasma cutter be used to score the pattern by hand (for bending), or is that so precise that it calls for a CNC machine?
Considering doing the score-and-bend technique that Guzzla used in his thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/591744-custom-rear-bumper-wheel-carrier.html
...with a little cardboard mockup first to get the lines just so ( and sans the wider wings on the quarter panels).
I like the looks of the one shown on wildyoats.com:
http://www.wildyoats.com/80_series_rear_bumper.htm
I like the simple lines of that one....
Along the same line of thought, can a plasma cutter be used to score the pattern by hand (for bending), or is that so precise that it calls for a CNC machine?
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Slabsides45 said:
I'm not sure even a CNC could be that precise. I'm afraid you will need the mother of all precision instruments - THE ANGLE GRINDER!!
You doin' the mudflaps?
Sounds like a good price on the steel. I think I paid $50 or so for the flat stock.
Looking forward to seeing you cut and fold the entire bumper out of one piece of steel!
Do you have a 220V welder?
Looking forward to seeing you cut and fold the entire bumper out of one piece of steel!
Do you have a 220V welder?
Bomar
SILVER Star
FJ60Cam said:
Yeah he does... I need some steel for a skid plate