Working on a butchered carb (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 4, 2007
Threads
39
Messages
254
Location
Santa Fe, NM
Website
www.billstengel.com
Colombian 1994 FZJ73.
This poor carb looks like it was maintained in the roughest way. Every screw is stripped out, the linkage is in shambles and I’m trying my best to bring this thing into working shape. Naturally, I have some questions for this amazing community.

All but one of the plastic bushings (the one that is left is green) in the linkage are gone. Megazip doesn’t cite a part number for the linkages so I’m assuming they are very much NLA. Has anyone gone through this and found a solution? I’m thinking of fabbing some from brass or nylon round stock from Lowe’s or similar.

There’s what looks like a lead/zinc plug between the barrel and the accelerator pump. (See attachment) It’s above the nozzle that the accelerator pump sprays through. This plug is gouged back so when the accelerator pump is pressed, fuel sprays out of this gouge and into the barrel. I’m assuming this isn’t normal and should be repaired somehow. Perhaps soldered over or maybe some epoxy?
Any input would be huge.
Thanks!

D3D72417-6343-49C3-9AAD-B5B0A7F45527.jpeg
 
One of the guys on here bought a Chinese replacement for a good price as a temporary replacement while he worked on the one that came on the rig. Hopefully he will chime in or you can find it with the search function
@c2dfj45 - if i recall, I think he just forked out the dough for a new one.
 
One of the guys on here bought a Chinese replacement for a good price as a temporary replacement while he worked on the one that came on the rig. Hopefully he will chime in or you can find it with the search function
I bought that very carb from said member as a temporary solution while I figure out what my options are. Evidently the usual suspects here for proper rebuilds are several months backed up.
 
I bought a Chinese one and it sucked....shocking. Then I bought the new OEM one, bolted it up, made a few adjustments and it's been perfect.
 
I bought a Chinese one and it sucked....shocking. Then I bought the new OEM one, bolted it up, made a few adjustments and it's been perfect.
No surprise there. Did you source it from Megazip or Partsouq? Looking at what needs to be done, buying a new OEM could very well be a break-even on rehabbing this one at the $815 mega zip wants right now.
 
One snag in this OEM carb scheme is that the connector on the harness is melted and I can't find it anywhere on any of the diagrams. Might anyone have any leads on where to find it?
 
No surprise there. Did you source it from Megazip or Partsouq? Looking at what needs to be done, buying a new OEM could very well be a break-even on rehabbing this one at the $815 mega zip wants right now.
Partsouq for mine.
 
Could you post the part number please? I'm struggling with mine.
If I were you, I'd get a new spacer/insulator for the carb, fuel filter, probably a fuel pump, rubber fuel lines, etc. Might want to think about having the tank cleaned while you're messing around so you know you've got a clean tank. Do a sending unit if you're dropping the tank. Most all of that stuff will need attention at some point, kind of nice to get it all done and not have to think about it for a long time.
 
If I were you, I'd get a new spacer/insulator for the carb, fuel filter, probably a fuel pump, rubber fuel lines, etc. Might want to think about having the tank cleaned while you're messing around so you know you've got a clean tank. Do a sending unit if you're dropping the tank. Most all of that stuff will need attention at some point, kind of nice to get it all done and not have to think about it for a long time.
Thank you for the suggestion, have done most of these items already, save for dropping and cleaning the tank.
I am busy rebuilding the engine and noticed cylinder no. 4 was more worn than the others not sure if the carb was running too rich or previous owner neglect, but I really don't want to pull this motor again in the near future, so trying to address the issues now.
 
Doubling my efforts with a similar thread I have going in the NM forum:

New carb is in. It’s a stark contrast with the one I was hoping to bring back to life.
In going through the vacuum diagram, I learned that both of the bi-metal vacuum switches in the circuit were broken so while I wait for those to arrive, I am wondering if brand new OEM carbs come fully set up per pages 333-340 of the FSM. If not, I’ll have to figure out how to fashion the SST that measures the various angles of the valves (there’s one on eBay right now for $500) and how to apply vacuum to check the rest of it.
I know it’s prudent to always check someone else’s work, but do these leave the factory ready to drop in?
Thanks!
 
Alright, MUD braintrust, installation of this new carb and its various bits is imminent. I am tremendously appreciative of your help so far. The last thing I need to figure out is wiring.
The carb wiring as it arrived on this truck was as follows: the electric choke and the solenoid next to the choke were spliced together into a Y and then went down to the harness. I don't know if they were wired into the correct spot. The other solenoid (with the hose coming off of it) wasn't wired at all. @Onur helped me find the connector that comes off the harness and plugs into the carb but properly wiring it into the harness is unclear.

I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram for this truck and electrics are the thing that I'm least versed in.

What I am curious to know is this: do the three things on this carb that require power (choke, 2 solenoids) simply need current, or do they have their own specific wire in the harness which has some sort of switch or sensor upstream? I guess this is more a logic thing than something specific to this model/part etc.

Thank you!
 
The new carb is in and mostly plumbed out. Between the vacuum hose parts diagram and @snapdragon ’s partial hood sticker, I think I’ve gotten all the lines laid out correctly. The one spot I can’t make out is what happens with the nipples on either side of the idle mixture screw: the lower of the two toward the front appears to go to one of the three hard lines grouped together mounted to the intake, the upper one and the one to thare both unclear to me.

This last vaccuum bit, the carb wiring and I’m in business. Then it’s on to the radiator, water pump, oil pump, front main. I *think* after that second round, I’ll be able to drive it and start ironing things out as needed. It’s been a long 2 months!
 
With regards to the nipples by the mixture screw. The single one is blocked off. Where there are two (one above the other) top nipple is vacuum advance and goes to dizzy the bottom one goes to charcoal canister
 
With regards to the nipples by the mixture screw. The single one is blocked off. Where there are two (one above the other) top nipple is vacuum advance and goes to dizzy the bottom one goes to charcoal canister
Awesome, thanks!
I don't have a charcoal canister so I'll cap that one off.

Inching closer!
 
...do the three things on this carb that require power (choke, 2 solenoids) simply need current, or do they have their own specific wire in the harness which has some sort of switch or sensor upstream?

Does anyone have any insight into this, specifically? This is the last piece to having this sorted and electrics is not something I know a lot about.

I pulled apart the section of wires that were going to the old carb and to the brake master cylinder cap. Going to the carburetor, there was one wire that was split into a Y, with one wire going to the choke and one to the solenoid next to the choke. The solenoid on the front side of the carb wasn't wired to anything.

Thanks!
 
Hello,

The carburetor has a coil housing with a thermostat. There is a wire that connects to a four-pin connector that joins the wire harness.

Connector pinout is

2 | 1
4 | 3

The coil housing wire goes to pin number 1.

Hope this helps.





Juan
 
Hello,

The carburetor has a coil housing with a thermostat. There is a wire that connects to a four-pin connector that joins the wire harness.

Connector pinout is

2 | 1
4 | 3

The coil housing wire goes to pin number 1.

Hope this helps.





Juan
Thanks, Juan.
 

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