Won’t start; confused.

[boydmick]

My battery was tired and not holding a charge so I picked up a new one and replaced it. The truck turns over strong, but will not start. No other changes than the battery. The truck ran fine before the swap.

I double checked the wires and everything is connected correctly; what am I missing?

 

[BILT4ME]

My battery was tired and not holding a charge so I picked up a new one and replaced it. The truck turns over strong, but will not start. No other changes than the battery. The truck ran fine before the swap.

I double checked the wires and everything is connected correctly; what am I missing?

Did you remember to connect the fusible links?

Also, it's not uncommon to cause a fusible link failure while yanking on the battery cables during a battery change.

Use a multimeter to determine if you have voltage on both sides.

Also advise if you have:
Headlights
Dash lights
Radio
Interior lights

This helps determine which one broke even though you replace them as a set.

 

[boydmick]

Did you remember to connect the fusible links?

Also, it's not uncommon to cause a fusible link failure while yanking on the battery cables during a battery change.

Use a multimeter to determine if you have voltage on both sides.

Also advise if you have:
Headlights
Dash lights
Radio
Interior lights

This helps determine which one broke even though you replace them as a set.

Fusible links connected and voltage checked.

Headlights - check
Dash lights - check
radio - check
interior lights - check
EFI relay - check
Fuses - check

It ran fine before the battery swap, I don’t know what I’m missing here.

 

[BILT4ME]

Fusible links connected and voltage checked.

Headlights - check
Dash lights - check
radio - check
interior lights - check
EFI relay - check
Fuses - check

It ran fine before the battery swap, I don’t know what I’m missing here.

You didn't mention what year.

If you have a 1FZ, check the plug on top of the distributor to make sure it's plugged in and there is no damage to the wired coming into the plug. It's a nice "leaning" point and it gets hands set on it while doing other things and sometimes it will fail.

Try to spray starting fluid into the intake and crank it to determine if you have spark and computer.

Do you have a Check Engine Light (CEL) with the key in the RUN position? Here's a hint: If no CEL it will NOT run because the computer is not ready and does not have what it needs.

 

[boydmick]

So, it’s a 1997 FZJ.

All wires connected.

There is not a CEL with the key in run, didn’t notice that before. What could be keeping this from lighting?
While cranking the Low AT temp and low oil pressure lights illuminated but they went out when I stop cranking.

I can’t remember if you can hear the fuel pump cycle when you turn the key, but mine is silent.

 

[jonheld]

There is not a CEL with the key in run, didn’t notice that before.

Full stop. This engine will not run without the CEL illuminated with the key in the ON/RUN position. Don't bother cranking the starter.
You said you checked the fusible links. Did you use a meter or your eyeballs?
Check the 15 amp EFI MAIN fuse in the underhood relay box on the left fender.
Check the 7.5 amp IGN fuse in the fuse box by the driver's left knee.
Check the 15 amp ECU-IG fuse in the same location.
Check fuses with a meter, not your eyeballs.

 

[boydmick]

Alright, I rechecked everything with a meter multiple times and everything checked good; almost.

The continuity on the third little pink fusible link was sketchy. When I held it firmly I would get a good tone, if I left it loose it would drop in and out. I dug through my spares and luckily I had a new set. I got them installed and the truck fired right up!

Thanks for the help!