ARCHIVE Wits' End York On-Board-Air Schematic and Discussion

[TossYoda]

I like that schematic, it's understandable.

Are you going to give 'Pro-Tips' on routing the tubing?

 

[NLXTACY]

I like that schematic, it's understandable.

Are you going to give 'Pro-Tips' on routing the tubing?

Along the fuel lines, along the brake lines and inside the frame rails

Zip ties are your friend

 

[NLXTACY]

Just as a side note, I had the filter I thought I wanted to use and did a mock-up of the bracket for it but it just seems like too much to do for just a stupid bracket. I've ordered a different type of filter that uses a different style of mounting that might make a little more sense.

 

[Steve D]

Huge thanks to @NLXTACY for quick-shipping me a manifold in its raw state. It is a fantastic all-in-one package. I leave Friday for Moab and wanted to have OBA up and running. The hardest part was sketching out the lines and AN fittings. I mounted my coalescing filter on the back side of the cruise control cable bracket and needed relatively long runs of hose. There was a bit of a learning curve for me making AN hose ends work, but I got there.

I will add more photos and write-up but here's how it looked after I hit the switch. Well, after I hit the switch, realized I hadn't hooked up B+, turned off the switch, connected the relay to B+, and hit the switch again.

One note, Joey's standard setup has the plastic line to the tank running from the left (rear) side of the manifold and the line from the York on the right (front) side. I swapped the lines because of the location of my coalescing filter. Due to the size of the AN fittings from the filter and the check valve Joey supplies, the hood strut was hitting that AN fitting. I slotted the Wits' End bracket holes, mounted it under the fender lip, mounted it closer to the air box than intended and got enough clearance to the hood strut to be happy.

I plan to install a 90* fitting so the hi/low switch and its wires (red & blue in this photo) will point down out of view.

If I had it to do over again, I would try to run the air lines in the configuration Joey intended.

I'm looking forward to the York being as dirty as the air box!

 

[Steve D]

After 10 days on the road to/from/around Moab, I'm happy to report the easy, quiet, carefree use of my Wits' End OBA system courtesy of @NLXTACY .

I tried not to gloat too much when the other guys were shouting over their buzzy little ARBs and Viairs. Truth be told, there wasn't much time to gloat. I aired back up after each of the 5 trails I covered and even got to offer air tools to the mini truck driver who broke down on Poison Spider.

Thanks again to Joey for all his work on this wonderful little niche product!

 

[NLXTACY]

Huge thanks to @NLXTACY for quick-shipping me a manifold in its raw state. It is a fantastic all-in-one package. I leave Friday for Moab and wanted to have OBA up and running. The hardest part was sketching out the lines and AN fittings. I mounted my coalescing filter on the back side of the cruise control cable bracket and needed relatively long runs of hose. There was a bit of a learning curve for me making AN hose ends work, but I got there.

I will add more photos and write-up but here's how it looked after I hit the switch. Well, after I hit the switch, realized I hadn't hooked up B+, turned off the switch, connected the relay to B+, and hit the switch again.

One note, Joey's standard setup has the plastic line to the tank running from the left (rear) side of the manifold and the line from the York on the right (front) side. I swapped the lines because of the location of my coalescing filter. Due to the size of the AN fittings from the filter and the check valve Joey supplies, the hood strut was hitting that AN fitting. I slotted the Wits' End bracket holes, mounted it under the fender lip, mounted it closer to the air box than intended and got enough clearance to the hood strut to be happy.

I plan to install a 90* fitting so the hi/low switch and its wires (red & blue in this photo) will point down out of view.

If I had it to do over again, I would try to run the air lines in the configuration Joey intended.

I'm looking forward to the York being as dirty as the air box!

View attachment 1447635

BTW, the shipping version has the low pressure switch and wires pointed down now

 

[NLXTACY]

After 10 days on the road to/from/around Moab, I'm happy to report the easy, quiet, carefree use of my Wits' End OBA system courtesy of @NLXTACY .

I tried not to gloat too much when the other guys were shouting over their buzzy little ARBs and Viairs. Truth be told, there wasn't much time to gloat. I aired back up after each of the 5 trails I covered and even got to offer air tools to the mini truck driver who broke down on Poison Spider.

Thanks again to Joey for all his work on this wonderful little niche product!

Great to hear!

 

[Irish Reiver]

Well this sucks... Of all the positions the coupler could have stopped it had to be here. Distance between the coupler and the intake plug is about 1 inch with a 2 inch separation. The hose will kink at this distance. Not sure if a large washer will change the orientation.

 

[NLXTACY]

Well this sucks... Of all the positions the coupler could have stopped it had to be here. Distance between the coupler and the intake plug is about 1 inch with a 2 inch separation. The hose will kink at this distance. Not sure if a large washer will change the orientation.

View attachment 1468269

Adding a washer under the fitting will make it worse. Why are you using a 90 off the pair?

 

[Steve D]

Adding a washer under the fitting will make it worse. Why are you using a 90 off the pair?

His supplier had a limited selection.

@Stretched - Use a longer hose and have it make a U. That will give you enough slack to change the air filter in the future.

And make sure you use the o-rings for the compressor. If you don't, a thin coat of oil will form on top of the York. #askmehowiknow

 

[Irish Reiver]

Thanks @Steve D I hadn't thought about removing the air canister lid - great point.

Talking of oil - is there a consensus on the type of oil to use in the York? There appears to be a lot of info on the interweb relating to oil mods and running the compressor low on oil to minimize oil in the air lines.

 

[Steve D]

Talking of oil - is there a consensus on the type of oil to use in the York? There appears to be a lot of info on the interweb relating to oil mods and running the compressor low on oil to minimize oil in the air lines.

I'm not saying this is right, but I just used some motor oil I had on the shelf. Given how infrequently the compressor is used in this application vs as an air conditioning component, I don't think weight/type matters.

Not knowing what to expect in terms of volume of oil spitting out, I zip tied an empty soda bottle to the frame rail and ran hose from the coalescing filter. After a few days of airing back up each day, I had a few ounces of oil in the bottle. I also had some oil in the tank that sprayed out on my hand when I pulled the drain valve. Given where the air outlet is, I would have to run about 1.25 gallons of oil into the tank before it would get to the air hose outlet. All that to say I am not concerned about oil in my system affecting the end product.

I made a dipstick per the York manual and filled it full.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Huge thanks to @NLXTACY for quick-shipping me a manifold in its raw state. It is a fantastic all-in-one package. I leave Friday for Moab and wanted to have OBA up and running. The hardest part was sketching out the lines and AN fittings. I mounted my coalescing filter on the back side of the cruise control cable bracket and needed relatively long runs of hose. There was a bit of a learning curve for me making AN hose ends work, but I got there.

I will add more photos and write-up but here's how it looked after I hit the switch. Well, after I hit the switch, realized I hadn't hooked up B+, turned off the switch, connected the relay to B+, and hit the switch again.

One note, Joey's standard setup has the plastic line to the tank running from the left (rear) side of the manifold and the line from the York on the right (front) side. I swapped the lines because of the location of my coalescing filter. Due to the size of the AN fittings from the filter and the check valve Joey supplies, the hood strut was hitting that AN fitting. I slotted the Wits' End bracket holes, mounted it under the fender lip, mounted it closer to the air box than intended and got enough clearance to the hood strut to be happy.

I plan to install a 90* fitting so the hi/low switch and its wires (red & blue in this photo) will point down out of view.

If I had it to do over again, I would try to run the air lines in the configuration Joey intended.

I'm looking forward to the York being as dirty as the air box!

View attachment 1447635

Any pics of your suction side? Just want to make sure I'm doing it right before I punch a hole in it. Basically just get it in where it fits in?

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Well this sucks... Of all the positions the coupler could have stopped it had to be here. Distance between the coupler and the intake plug is about 1 inch with a 2 inch separation. The hose will kink at this distance. Not sure if a large washer will change the orientation.

View attachment 1468269

How tight is the fitting in this pic? I put mine on as tight as I could by hand and this is where it stopped. I kind of panicked because I didn't think a wrench would move it very far, but it went about 45 degrees more and into a better position.

 

[NLXTACY]

The hose is universal in length. I would use the top of the canister vs the side. The side is pre-filtered whereas the top/bowl/MAF section is post-filtered.

Any pics of your suction side? Just want to make sure I'm doing it right before I punch a hole in it. Basically just get it in where it fits in?

 

[NLXTACY]

How tight is the fitting in this pic? I put mine on as tight as I could by hand and this is where it stopped. I kind of panicked because I didn't think a wrench would move it very far, but it went about 45 degrees more and into a better position.

It still might change as you hunt down potential leaks.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

The hose is universal in length. I would use the top of the canister vs the side. The side is pre-filtered whereas the top/bowl/MAF section is post-filtered.

s***, I didn't even think about that. You're so smart

 

[NLXTACY]

s***, I didn't even think about that. You're so smart

You're giving me waaaay too much credit

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Another question, or more of a concern. In the pic I have about the flattest section of the rounded area. Is it going to seal good enough? I'd like to move it closer to the MAF, but it's more rounded and the nut has a more visual gap on the outside.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Pro tip- don't put the hose on the barbed fitting for mockup unless it's right where you want it. Good thing there is extra because that mfer isn't coming off lol