ARCHIVE Wits’ End takes over production of the PHOTOMAN alt mod

[NLXTACY]

After a few messages back and forth between Bill and myself the production is moving forward.

Wits’ End will be producing the kit in its entirety nearly identically to how it was originally offered. The main difference is I am going to be producing 50 kits all at one time vs build to order.

This process started back in early January and once the metal pieces are done I’ll have enough of the wiring to be ready to go.

For those unaware of the mod please start here:

Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp

forum.ih8mud.com

As soon as everything is ready I will be posting it up on the site.

 

[Filo Bedo]

Have you determined a final price for the kit? It looks awesome. The windings in mine look like they have been hot and the insulation doesn’t look good. It’s on the short list.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Remind me again why I would need this and would i need to upgrade any of the cables/harness to accept the higher current

 

[jht3]

nice. had my eye on this recently so glad to hear you are taking on future orders!

stock fusible links are still sufficient? i already have beefed up the other battery and ground cables.

 

[Delta VS]

NICE WORK!!

 

[jwbc84]

Can I put my order in now?

 

[gummycarbs]

Remind me again why I would need this and would i need to upgrade any of the cables/harness to accept the higher current

I really like my 150A alternator. My lights don't dim at idle like they did with the stock setup, and I know that I have enough amperage for whatever I do later. To each his own, but I really like my Photoman setup.

I added a 4 AWG cable from the alternator to the battery, with a Littelfuse MEGA Fuse. Also, 4 AWG ground to the battery and to the alternator case, which is a pretty standard thing in the car audio world. I used 4 AWG simply because I had it on hand, I'm sure you can get away with smaller wires for such short runs.

 

[TYM4FUN]

Remind me again why I would need this and would i need to upgrade any of the cables/harness to accept the higher current

Large subwoofer

 

[Shipwreck]

I love my Photoman alternator bracket. The only thing I would change would be to include JIS metric vs SAE hardware. Any chance of this happening?

 

[-Spike-]

I love my Photoman alternator bracket. The only thing I would change would be to include metric vs SAE hardware. Any chance of this happening?

x2- I only carry metric tools, I replace any SAE hardware, and consider any vendor that doesn't include metric hardware to be lazy. (sideways look in @NLXTACY 's general direction)

Also- where's the etchification? Clearly Wit's End is going in the crapper... probably some Covid excuse...

 

[leonard_nemoy]

X3 on the metric hardware. But I am guessing that @NLXTACY is planning on using metric based on his other products and offerings.

Thanks for continuing to support the 80 series and our addictions Joey!!!!!

 

[gummycarbs]

I thought the fasteners were metric, just not JIS. I never actually measured the threads, though.

 

[NLXTACY]

I love my Photoman alternator bracket. The only thing I would change would be to include JIS metric vs SAE hardware. Any chance of this happening?

x2- I only carry metric tools, I replace any SAE hardware, and consider any vendor that doesn't include metric hardware to be lazy. (sideways look in @NLXTACY 's general direction)

Also- where's the etchification? Clearly Wit's End is going in the crapper... probably some Covid excuse...

X3 on the metric hardware. But I am guessing that @NLXTACY is planning on using metric based on his other products and offerings.

Thanks for continuing to support the 80 series and our addictions Joey!!!!!

I thought the fasteners were metric, just not JIS. I never actually measured the threads, though.

I am working on this part of it and trying NOT to machine common hardware but for the why use SAE hardware, in Bill’s own words:

“There is only one bolt with the bracket that is not metric. I had to go back and look in my notes from 10 years ago to see why I used this bolt.

Here it is by the boring numbers.

The adjusting hole in the Sequoia alternator that uses this bolt is .455 inch in diameter. The shoulder on a 7/16 bolt is .432. That is .023 difference. For US reference, .03125 is 1/32 inch so less than 1/32 inch clearance. Pretty close.

Common Metric bolts. A 12mm bolt shoulder is .470 > .455 = too big to use. A 10mm bolt shoulder is .386. So, .455 - .386 = .069. For US reference .0625 is 1/16 inch so more than 1/16 inch clearance with a 10mm bolt. Pretty loose.

More numbers. The 7/16 bolt takes a 5/8 (.625) inch wrench or socket. 16mm = .6299. Approximately .005 (5 thousandths difference) = use a 16mm tool. The nut takes a 11/16 (.6875) tool. 18mm = .7086. According to the calculator .7086 - .6875 = .021 difference. An 18mm tool will work. Further, the nut is a serrated flange nut. I did this so the nut, once the serrations bite in, can be held with fingers or nothing so a wrench or socket tool would not be needed except for maybe a final tighten.”

 

[Shipwreck]

I am working on this part of it and blah blah blah,
...Here it is by the boring numbers. Blah, blah
The adjusting hole .... 12mm bolt shoulder. ...more than 1/16 inch clearance

More numbers... Flanges.. bolt head, blah blah blah....”

Sorry I asked the question Joey.

Really happy that you are taking on another project that helps our community. Carry on.

 

[-Spike-]

I am working on this part of it and trying NOT to machine common hardware but for the why use SAE hardware, in Bill’s own words:

“There is only one bolt with the bracket that is not metric. I had to go back and look in my notes from 10 years ago to see why I used this bolt.

Here it is by the boring numbers.

The adjusting hole in the Sequoia alternator that uses this bolt is .455 inch in diameter. The shoulder on a 7/16 bolt is .432. That is .023 difference. For US reference, .03125 is 1/32 inch so less than 1/32 inch clearance. Pretty close.

Common Metric bolts. A 12mm bolt shoulder is .470 > .455 = too big to use. A 10mm bolt shoulder is .386. So, .455 - .386 = .069. For US reference .0625 is 1/16 inch so more than 1/16 inch clearance with a 10mm bolt. Pretty loose.

More numbers. The 7/16 bolt takes a 5/8 (.625) inch wrench or socket. 16mm = .6299. Approximately .005 (5 thousandths difference) = use a 16mm tool. The nut takes a 11/16 (.6875) tool. 18mm = .7086. According to the calculator .7086 - .6875 = .021 difference. An 18mm tool will work. Further, the nut is a serrated flange nut. I did this so the nut, once the serrations bite in, can be held with fingers or nothing so a wrench or socket tool would not be needed except for maybe a final tighten.”

Sounds like a winner to me. Doesn't explain the paucity of bling though. I assume you'll address the issue in your time.

 

[Francis J.]

Kudos Joey!

 

[NLXTACY]

Sounds like a winner to me. Doesn't explain the paucity of bling though. I assume you'll address the issue in your time.

Still to be decided.

 

[93yotasr5]

Pretty bad ass. looking forward to seeing the kit on the site.

 

[GT3510]

Soon? or soon soon? Confirmed today my cylinder head has to come off. Would be a great time to upgrade the alternator. Thanks for continuing the Photoman alt mod!!

 

[OffRoadScott]

I am looking forward to seeing what the price point is, obviously this is well thought out. I am not sure of the history of my alternator and if I am going to swap it out might as well upgrade.