Builds wiseinvestor's budget build of "Big Slick"

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Check your pump temp after a shower and make sure it's not too hot. Those pumps are designed to run continuously but they do radiate some heat to do so. Might not matter for very short showers.

Just in case you're not familiar with those Shurflo pumps, there are 2 allen screws on the bottom. The pumps typically need to be adjusted, unless you have more-or-less unrestricted flow. In an RV, the goal should be for the pump to run continuously while showering (but it'll kick on and off when you use a sink). If yours shuts on and off while the water is running, turn the screw in the center until it runs smoothly. And if it's smooth but the pump seems to kick on occasionally when water is not flowing (aside from when you first pressurize it), then turn it the other way to reduce the pressure a bit.

FWIW with the pressure set right and using the shower head shut-off, I can do a full shower with <2 gallons of water. Granted I have less hair now than I used to...
 
Quick pitch ensuite. Attached to 80/20, that is attached to Ironman quick mounts that are attached to gamiviti recievers. @nakman

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I love how easy the Ironman mounts make installing and removing the unit from the truck. However, they are the weakest point in the setup so time will tell how they hold up.

The 80/20 plus the Ironman mounts cause the unit to sit a few inches away from the rack. Not ideal physics but it does allow for the shower to deploy without much interference from the body of the truck.

I added the poles which are made by Drifta. They provide needed support and help anchor the fabric.

It is a work in progress.
 
Those poles would have been the missing piece on my bracket extensions for the en-suite. However getting the poles out would put it in the too fiddly category for me (I picture using it for quick car side potty stops with the bush toilet).
Great for a setup camp kind of install for sure.
 
Yep...Maybe if there was zero wind.
The poles stow in the bag and are a minor fiddle.
 
When we did the radiator swap / pm list, we noticed the transmission fluid was looking like it needed replaced.
Toyota service claims it is a closed system that doesn't require a flush, but we did it anyway.
I also had the driveshaft greased... as the budbuilt skids that are about to go on will make that a more difficult job.
Lastly the front rotors were replaced.
 
Bud Built Skids are on.
Engine, Transmission, and Transfer case are Stainless Steel 3/16"
Front and Fuel skids are Aluminum powder coated black.

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Install wasn't anywhere as difficult as the sliders.

One of the factory skids had a previously broken bolt that I had to drill out and tap.
The only other issue was the lower bolt on the rear strap of the fuel skid. I faced it inward like they describe in the you tube video. It is millimeters from the fuel tank. I'm considering taking the fuel skid down and facing the bolt outward for piece of mind.

Overall, I couldn't be more pleased with the quality and the protection.
 
That exposed spot where the radiator and condenser are exposed gives me the heebie-jeebies.
 
Maybe just my paranoia, but I'm afraid of damage to those exposed components.

This is from rock damage to my improvised protection in that area. it could just as easily be a branch hitting that area, and with no protection, that's a punctured radiator or ac condenser. I've had that kind of damage to a tractor, and it ruins the fun.

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Yes, I suppose the perfect branch could jab in there. I will give that some thought.
I'm more worried about grass seeds, leaves, and whatnot.
but that's easy enough to keep an eye on.
 
Bud Built Skids are on.
Engine, Transmission, and Transfer case are Stainless Steel 3/16"
Front and Fuel skids are Aluminum powder coated black.

View attachment 2722599

Install wasn't anywhere as difficult as the sliders.

One of the factory skids had a previously broken bolt that I had to drill out and tap.
The only other issue was the lower bolt on the rear strap of the fuel skid. I faced it inward like they describe in the you tube video. It is millimeters from the fuel tank. I'm considering taking the fuel skid down and facing the bolt outward for piece of mind.

Overall, I couldn't be more pleased with the quality and the protection.
Nice. I replaced the diff fluids, transfer case and lubed drive shafts. Had to take all my Bud Built skids off except the one over the gas tank. Getting them back on was ok except for the back skid, one bolt attaches to the piece that covers the gas tank skid. It was a pain to get it inserted, kept popping out, falling behind the shield.

@Taco2Cruiser did my original install. I'm sure he has an easy workaround. Love the skids and they have provided great protection.
 
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Nice. I replaced the diff fluids, transfer case and lubed drive shafts. Had to take all my Bud Built skids off except the on over the gas tank. Getting them back on was ok except for the back skid, one bolt attaches to the piece that covers the gas tank skid. It was a pain to get it inserted, get popping out, falling behind the shield.

@Taco2Cruiser did my original install. I'm sure he has an easy workaround. Love the skids and they have provided great protection.
Good to hear. I had the diff fluids and transfer case done 4k ago at my 100k mile service. Someone on here shared a trick of using a long twist tie (bread bag tie thing) and feeding it through the hole as a guide. I did that and it took a min but was no drama.
 
Sent an email to tech@budbuilt about the bolt. Bud responded and told me the round smooth head of the bolt should be toward the tank. He said the video was wrong and that my concern was justified. I will be loosening the fuel skid and getting it turned around.
 
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Threw together a birch platform for the fridge slide/fridge. Partner steel stove will be stored below the fridge.
Stain and poly I had in the garage.... prob should have just painted it black.

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I wanted the top of the fridge slide to be below the top of the arb drawer so that it won't impact my deployed air mattress that hangs about 4 inches across center.
I could have made the cubby a bit taller, but with the stove in there it didn't offer much additional storage... and it did foul my propane storage near the tire jack compartment. As a result I made the cubby the exact height of the stove in it's blue ridge stove bag. It fits like a glove.
 
The simple homemade fridge platform is coming together.
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The stove slides in under it.

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I wanted the exped mattress to have room as it comes across the center line of the truck by about 4-5 inches.
I also needed the mattress to be above the exhaust of the fridge for obvious reasons.

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Propane sits in an easy spot to get in and out.
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And there is room between the fridge and the 2nd row (which I keep as far back as they go.)

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I currently have the Jackery 500 plugged into the 12v in the 2nd Row. We will see how it does.

Fairly low budget fridge setup.
Iceco JP30 was $269
Clearview expanda slide was $269.
Jackery 500 was $450.
Fridge Straps $49.
(+tax & shipping)

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The simple homemade fridge platform is coming together.
View attachment 2727235

The stove slides in under it.

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I wanted the exped mattress to have room as it comes across the center line of the truck by about 4-5 inches.
I also needed the mattress to be above the exhaust of the fridge for obvious reasons.

View attachment 2727236

Propane sits in an easy spot to get in and out.
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And there is room between the fridge and the 2nd row (which I keep as far back as they go.)

View attachment 2727252

I currently have the Jackery 500 plugged into the 12v in the 2nd Row. We will see how it does.

Fairly low budget fridge setup.
Iceco JP30 was $269
Clearview expanda slide was $269.
Jackery 500 was $450.
Fridge Straps $49.
(+tax & shipping)

View attachment 2727256
Looks good. I run the rear ac power adapter to my electric power battery thing. That keeps it charged when driving. The fridge is then powered by the solar gen. I’m lucky as my ac adapter only draws 90w or so it works on the truck ac plug.
 

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