Wiring tools

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Hid out n da mtns of E. Tennessee
I'm looking for recommendations on something like a basic automotive wiring kit. I have piles of diagonal cutters,various pliers, heat shrink, and connectors scattered around the garage and in the bottom of tool boxes. I have a crimper I could get by with. I could probably use a ratchet style crimper and a bunch of high quality connectors in an organized box of some sort. I know Blue Sea has a good rep and there used to be a company called Wagner power products. I had a catalog but I don't think they were online and I still can't find them with Google. Cheap is not as important as quality, but I don't want anything overpriced either.
 
Klein, stak-on, or Greenlee for crimpers and strippers. I'm not a fan of the combo tools, get the "gauge" type strippers if you don't do wiring often.

I hate pre-made kits of connectors they always have a bunch of crap I never use. I use little Plano tackle boxes to organize connectors. I love the 3m heat shrink insulated crimp connectors with the hot glue inside, they seal up nice. Add a Bic lighter to your kit to shrink them.

I use an ammo can to store tools and connectors for wiring. Throw in some wrenches for battery terminals, some battery cleaner and terminal sealer. Get a half way decent digital volt ohm meter, no need to go crazy most automotive testing is "voltage or no voltage"or "connection no connection". A couple of shop rags, zip ties, electrical tape and some short pieces of wire in different gauges and you have a decent kit.
 
Get a quality stripper, crimper, needle nose and terminal brush (what's a ratchet crimper? just don't use the generic multi-tool junk that strips/crimps/etc). Red electrical tape for easy ID of trail repairs and black for normal use. Rusty has a good summary above, except add a soldering iron and supplies. And pull off the red/blue/yellow plastic from the connectors (or buy them w/o); cover them with e-tape and heat shrink after crimping. Small terminal pick tools and/or tiny jeweler's screwdrivers are good to have.

Expect to pay about $25 for stripper and $30 for crimper pliers. The Snap On tool that Max posted might be good - it's much thicker than most multi-use models. Soldering iron can be be cheap at $10. Rosin core solder from an electrical supply place is better than from others. A fine - med fine solder will do well. I've got solder from many brands and places that just doesn't melt/bond right. Learn how to heat the part, not the solder.

Have a supply of good (cross linked polyethylene jacket) stranded copper wire in various colors and gauges (I keep 14g for most needs). Don't use A'zone/Wallymart-type vinyl coated wire if you can avoid it. Buy Mil-Spec battery terminals and install them now or keep them for when needed, just know that the bolt size might require you to enlarge the holes in any accessory ring terminals you have. A step drill bit or reamer is much easier than a regular drill bit for that.

Dielectric grease is good to have handy. You can get a small tube at A'zone. Also keep some 600+grit sandpaper in your kit for cleaning corroded contacts.

A multimeter of some sort is necessary. You can learn to use it as you go. Rusty is right - voltage and continuity are most commonly used. Add some alligator clip test leads for when you run out of length. Some people like a test light (has a wire to hook to ground and a positive test probe with a light to show voltage is present).

Check out www.wirebarn.com for their GXL wire.
 
I keep all my electrical "stuff" in three different cheap plastic boxes. One is for rolls of new wire, one is for protective corrugated conduit, and the other for all my tools, terminals, heat shrink, tape, etc. The box for the tools is organized into smaller plastic containers. It would be nice though to have a dedicated box with drawers etc for all my tools. One tool which has been indispensable has been this.
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Get a quality stripper, crimper, needle nose and terminal brush (what's a ratchet crimper? just don't use the generic multi-tool junk that strips/crimps/etc). Red electrical tape for easy ID of trail repairs and black for normal use. Rusty has a good summary above, except add a soldering iron and supplies. And pull off the red/blue/yellow plastic from the connectors (or buy them w/o); cover them with e-tape and heat shrink after crimping. Small terminal pick tools and/or tiny jeweler's screwdrivers are good to have.

Expect to pay about $25 for stripper and $30 for crimper pliers. The Snap On tool that Max posted might be good - it's much thicker than most multi-use models. Soldering iron can be be cheap at $10. Rosin core solder from an electrical supply place is better than from others. A fine - med fine solder will do well. I've got solder from many brands and places that just doesn't melt/bond right. Learn how to heat the part, not the solder.

Have a supply of good (cross linked polyethylene jacket) stranded copper wire in various colors and gauges (I keep 14g for most needs). Don't use A'zone/Wallymart-type vinyl coated wire if you can avoid it. Buy Mil-Spec battery terminals and install them now or keep them for when needed, just know that the bolt size might require you to enlarge the holes in any accessory ring terminals you have. A step drill bit or reamer is much easier than a regular drill bit for that.

Dielectric grease is good to have handy. You can get a small tube at A'zone. Also keep some 600+grit sandpaper in your kit for cleaning corroded contacts.

A multimeter of some sort is necessary. You can learn to use it as you go. Rusty is right - voltage and continuity are most commonly used. Add some alligator clip test leads for when you run out of length. Some people like a test light (has a wire to hook to ground and a positive test probe with a light to show voltage is present).

Check out www.wirebarn.com for their GXL wire.
Just use dykes to cut the ring terminal and spread it out.
 
Thanks everybody!
I used to be a vending machine repairman and have some background with electronics and electricity. I have propane soldering iron and a fluke multimeter. Wire strippers and such I have already. I always carry zip ties. I understand that's soldered connections are considered inferior to good crimp style connector. Somebody hosted the other day to use a good "ratchet style crimper." as with most things I just figured I was behind the times. I agree most of the kids you would pick up at the auto store the flea market are mostly junk. But I would like to have on hand things I need rather than have to stop, order them, or go pick them up. Good tips all around as always, thanks again for taking time to post.
 
Thanks everybody!
I understand that's soldered connections are considered inferior to good crimp style connector.
Tin the wire tips, then crimp, then solder, then 'shrink. That's the reason for not using the plastic covers on the connectors. Do this on butt connectors and terminal ends.
 
As you have already posted you have wire strippers, but keep in mind there are different strippers depending on if you are using solid or stranded wire. Generally all automotive is stranded.
As for shrink tubing don't go buy the cheapest crap you can find, get some that shrinks 2 or 3 to 1 and a good heat gun to shrink it down.
Another thing is if you need decent picks for your kit talk to your dentist they usually have some unusable items that they should give to you.
Like posted there is a difference between what you can find at Harbor freight vs a quality vendor. I use Terminal Supply for quite a bit as they are local. but you end up buying larger quantity's than you might need.
 
Thanks JohnVee, that's pretty much how I was taught to do things as far as tinning the tips and such. Good tip on not using quality heat shrink instead of the plastic coated connectors. Did I understand that right?
Rambush, thanks for the tip on terminal supplies. That's what I was looking for.
 
Pick up an assortment of different colors of electrical tape. It comes in handy when trying to label different wires or circuits when tearing stuff down.
 
Tin the wire tips, then crimp, then solder, then 'shrink. That's the reason for not using the plastic covers on the connectors. Do this on butt connectors and terminal ends.
Bad idea. Tinning the wire eliminates its ability to flex, which is why we use stranded wire to begin with. There are numerous papers by everyone from JEDEC(military) to IPC(commercial) which prove that a properly made crimp connection is superior to a soldered connection. Trust me I do this for a living.
 
Bad idea. Tinning the wire eliminates its ability to flex, which is why we use stranded wire to begin with. There are numerous papers by everyone from JEDEC(military) to IPC(commercial) which prove that a properly made crimp connection is superior to a soldered connection. Trust me I do this for a living.
I can see your 'flex' point if too much of the length is getting tinned, but the tinned section will reside inside the connector if done properly. Am I missing something, Dan?

Also, I'm curious if your referenced data changes based on humidity, coastal locations or when the part is exposed to frequent wetness. Please educate me. I do nothing of any real substance for a living. ;)
 
A proper crimp connection allows the wire strands to flex within the crimp.
All automotive manufacturers use crimp connections for use in all environments, same for military and other Hi-Rel applications. In general they rely on the connector housing to protect the connection from corrosion.
For the Consumer, look at something like Weatherpak connectors for applications that will see frequent or repeated exposure to hi humidity or submersion.
A side note on corrosion: It's extremely difficult to make a good solder joint with out flux. If you use flux to solder stranded wire some of the flux will wick under the insulation of the wire, there is no effective way to remove it. Flux by definition is corrosive. So by soldering you are introducing a latent defect into the connection.
 
A proper crimp connection allows the wire strands to flex within the crimp.
All automotive manufacturers use crimp connections for use in all environments, same for military and other Hi-Rel applications. In general they rely on the connector housing to protect the connection from corrosion.
For the Consumer, look at something like Weatherpak connectors for applications that will see frequent or repeated exposure to hi humidity or submersion.
A side note on corrosion: It's extremely difficult to make a good solder joint with out flux. If you use flux to solder stranded wire some of the flux will wick under the insulation of the wire, there is no effective way to remove it. Flux by definition is corrosive. So by soldering you are introducing a latent defect into the connection.

I agree with the benefits of a crimp connection, but find I can never achieve a crimp connection equivalent to that of oem. I have had my crimped connections fail but never a soldered connection fail from vibration or corrosion. Also, many of my oem connections have high resistance and after removing the corroded oem connector and replacing with my crimped, soldered and heat shrink connector things are like new again. But, maybe I need a better crimping set :-)
 
@1FZj80 I find that it is impossible to convert people outside the electronics industry. :meh:

Solder away, do not go out and buy a decent commercial crimp tool, do not attempt to learn how to make a proper crimp connection. Stick with the POS stamped steel crimp tool that came with the made in China assortment set, and continue to try to compensate for it's complete inability to make a proper connection by soldering.

If you really are stuck on soldering find some old books from the 1930's and learn the correct way to make a solder connection with stranded wire.
 
Rusty, what about wire-to-wire connections (same sizes), is a solder joint with heat shrink preferred or an end-to-end butt crimp connector?
 

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