Wiring Pertronix coil (1 Viewer)

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Godwin

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I'm trying to fire up a '73 F engine that has a Pertronix ignition installed. I am not getting spark and I question if the coil has been wired correctly. This is a 3.0 ohm coil.

On the + post of the coil are three wires:
Red that runs to distributor
Black with yellow stripe from stock wiring harness
Wire from ignition wiring

With ignition on there are 12 V at this post.

On the - post of the coil is one wire, black running to the distributor. With ignition on this post also reads 12 V.

Too loose wires, a black wire with black heat shrink, ignition on this wire reads 12 V.

Black with white stripe, with red heat shrink, ignition on this wire reads 0 V.

Wiring was done by a PO and I am questioning if it was done correctly.

IMG_1812.JPG
 
Maybe the stock wiring diagram might be helpful:

 
I have ZERO Pertronix experience... But, I did swap my OEM '78 electronic ignition for DUI... I may be assuming too much, but, I suspect the premise is much the same, for DUI and Pertronix.

Here's my DUI experience:
  • DUI requires unresisted, full battery power. Ballast resistor (Yazaki 10ga, inline resistor, for my '78, is not used... e.g. The 10ga BY wire (with 10ga pink Yazaki spliced to it) is no longer needed.
  • DUI replaces the dissy, coil and igniter.
Since DUI requires unresisted, full battery power, it's best to use a relay to draw directly from battery+ and trigger the relay, using the small (12 or 14ga) BY wire. That way you aren't sending extra current over OLD wires.

That's pretty much it, for differences... for DUI... probably for Pertronix as well.

These Google search results appear to provide excellent Pertronix information. wiring pertronix on a 73 fj40 - Google Search

HTH
 
Addendum:

I should have also said, you are at a distinct disadvantage, trying to make something work, when you don’t apparently know that it ever worked.

It might make sense to revert back to oem, get it working, and then migrate to Pertronix.
 
I would start with cleaning the terminals. Do a search for Pertronix you will find great info. Here is a testing procedure i copied from another thread
JP
Pertronix ModuleTesting​

Is this the Pertronix module that gets damaged when the key is left on too long? Maybe the mechanic that originally tried to install it fried it by leaving the key on?

One thing you seem to be confused on is "grounding of the coil". The Pertronix module grounds the coil black wire 6 times per revolution. If you hook your test light across the coil, then turn the engine over, if the module is working the light should flash as the Pertronix module grounds the coil - wire .

If you want to test it exactly the way that Pertronix would have you do it:
1935607
1553456082983.png
 
Here is a link and a instruction sheet. contact. Hope it helps.
JP
 

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Addendum:

I should have also said, you are at a distinct disadvantage, trying to make something work, when you don’t apparently know that it ever worked.

It might make sense to revert back to oem, get it working, and then migrate to Pertronix.

This is where I am at the moment. I have the points and an OEM coil and I think I'll go back to stock and begin with that.
 
I would start with cleaning the terminals. Do a search for Pertronix you will find great info. Here is a testing procedure i copied from another thread
JP
Pertronix ModuleTesting​

Is this the Pertronix module that gets damaged when the key is left on too long? Maybe the mechanic that originally tried to install it fried it by leaving the key on?

One thing you seem to be confused on is "grounding of the coil". The Pertronix module grounds the coil black wire 6 times per revolution. If you hook your test light across the coil, then turn the engine over, if the module is working the light should flash as the Pertronix module grounds the coil - wire .

If you want to test it exactly the way that Pertronix would have you do it:
View attachment 1935607View attachment 1935607
@mrboatman I am also having ignition problems and ran this test to see if it my new igniter was bad. I was able to see the light flicker when the engine was cranked to I think it’s fine. Two things I saw though:

1) when I attached my multimeter instead of the test light it only went up to 9v - I am assuming that is because my flame thrower coil has 3 ohm resistance. Is that correct?

2) I initially forgot to run a ground wire from the module plate to the battery negative terminal. When I hooked up the light it was constantly on. I thought that ground wire was just “belts and suspenders” because isn’t the plate already grounded via that little wire on the distributor plate??

Thank you in advance for any advice - I am driving myself insane over here!!
 
@mrboatman I am also having ignition problems and ran this test to see if it my new igniter was bad. I was able to see the light flicker when the engine was cranked to I think it’s fine. Two things I saw though:

1) when I attached my multimeter instead of the test light it only went up to 9v - I am assuming that is because my flame thrower coil has 3 ohm resistance. Is that correct?

2) I initially forgot to run a ground wire from the module plate to the battery negative terminal. When I hooked up the light it was constantly on. I thought that ground wire was just “belts and suspenders” because isn’t the plate already grounded via that little wire on the distributor plate??

Thank you in advance for any advice - I am driving myself insane over here!!
My pertronix module went bad and I replaced it with and that solved the issue I had. I’m now running a 2F with a big cap electronic distributor.
 
My pertronix module went bad and I replaced it with and that solved the issue I had. I’m now running a 2F with a big cap electronic distributor.

This. I could never sort out the Pertronix so I pulled it and went with a FJ60 distributor, igniter.
 

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