Thanks @Lexus Land Cruiser and @txtortoise! I'll talk with insurance, but they'll unlikely be willing to pay $1400 for a job quoted for $380 by Safelite. Also the cracked windshield isn't OEM so likely screws were used already 
Windshield replacement in Denver CO
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Thanks @Lexus Land Cruiser and @txtortoise! I'll talk with insurance, but they'll unlikely be willing to pay $1400 for a job quoted for $380 by Safelite. Also the cracked windshield isn't OEM so likely screws were used already
Don't mention it. These forums are great for these informative exchanges
Due to the complexities of the stock LX glass, and likely the LC in some configurations, going anything less than OEM can cause problems. The PO of my rig had at some point put in aftermarket glass. My rain sensing wipers don't work properly and there is an intermittent leak that manifests in the passengers foot well, both I believe to be a result of the aftermarket glass and a shotty install.
There are a few posts around mud from members who have successfully convinced their insurance carrier to spring for the OEM glass and trim, citing the inadequacies of the aftermarket products. The advice was to be insistent and persistent and you'll most likely get your way.
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I talked to Safelite about OEM. Started with Call Center and then ended up with local parts guys submitting request for OEM glass, molding, etc. and USAA said yes, so no drama after that. He said they are pretty good on newer vehicles, but I mentioned my 2007 was still valued around $24K, but doesn't look like that ever came up. They also know it's a complex windshield and normally put an experienced guy on it, though I was firm about who I wanted. I'd just go in with a request for OEM glass, moldings, etc. and ask them to confirm that with your insurance, and if they balk, then get a contact number for the insurance guy. If you have a local agent, that may help, but most companies just outsource the entire claims process to Safelite, so just have to get the OEM request through the process.
I had it done today at Safelite Boulder for $340, aftermarket parts and glass. GEICO wouldn't pay OEM glass unless Safelite would tell them no aftermarket glass would fit.
I believe the guy did a good job. Quite some rust was found after the side trims (part # 7553460050 I believe) were removed. He took it to the auto body shop across the street (Import Coachworks, according to the online reviews a great body shop) to have it taken care of. He used rivets as I asked, and the aftermarket rubber gasket on the top covered the leading edge of the roof line.
The side trims were a bit bent but still fit well. The guy said the trims weren't supposed to be a seal so there's no need to replace them. He even offered to replace them for free if I'd bring OEM trims to him later. The trims are about $250 a pair online so I'm not going to replace them. So far I'm very happy with the job. Again, thanks for all the feedback!
I believe the guy did a good job. Quite some rust was found after the side trims (part # 7553460050 I believe) were removed. He took it to the auto body shop across the street (Import Coachworks, according to the online reviews a great body shop) to have it taken care of. He used rivets as I asked, and the aftermarket rubber gasket on the top covered the leading edge of the roof line.
The side trims were a bit bent but still fit well. The guy said the trims weren't supposed to be a seal so there's no need to replace them. He even offered to replace them for free if I'd bring OEM trims to him later. The trims are about $250 a pair online so I'm not going to replace them. So far I'm very happy with the job. Again, thanks for all the feedback!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Nice work getting it done properly Silver Star. Do you see a difference in OEM glass.
Had mine done yesterday with OEM glass here in MO. Verdict is still out as I've got to wait 24-48 hours for the urethane to cure. A couple notes on my install:
1) The shop was rather rough removing the old by using some power tool that looked like a jackhammer with a spatula on the end between the glass and the body. This ended up cutting my drivers side a-pillar upholstery. I knew from reading that the recommendation was to completely remove the headliner and a-pillar covers during this removal/install, but the installer (claiming experience with these vehicles) didn't feel it necessary, so I put faith in his judgement. The new windshield appears to cover most of it up so you'd not notice it unless you were looking, but I saw it being done. Probably shouldn't have watched the process. Oh well, this is a 12 year old rig. If I have to reupholster the a-pillar at some point, looks easy enough.
2) With the old windshield removal, we were able to see what the previous install from PO was all about. It was somewhat sloppy with the urethane, but they did at least use rivets. However, no rain sensing tape, which could have contributed to my wonky wipers. Thin urethane near the passengers side could have been a leak producer, aided by the aftermarket XM antenna on the roofline.
3) New OEM windshield comes with mount for rear view mirror. Previous install by PO had apparently screwed up the mounting point on the mirror and installer had difficulty mounting the mirror to the new windshield. They fabricated something in their shop, they say, that worked around the issue. Haven't fussed with it yet to determine if it will be loose and cause problems.
4) As @thegreatgazoo stated, the mouldings/trim aren't seals. They just guide water and provide an aesthetically pleasing cover to the workings underneath. I was happy to discover this as well and feel better about the trims not being factory perfect. Hopefully when warmer weather hits they'll conform a bit more to the new install.
5) Interior of mine is ripped out whilst I repaired the speakers and covers all around, so I have no power window control. To prevent breaking the new seal, it was stated to leave at least one window open by 1 inch or so. I elected to open the sunroof to allow pressurized air to escape when doors are close. However, it was in the 20s last night so I had to close it all up, making sure to GENTLY close the door by pushing it to.
Total cost including OEM glass, rain sensing tape and some rubber trimmings (not the moulding that runs the height of the glass to the roofrack. Those were reused.) was $1,591.64. $280 of that was labor, the rest parts cost. On a scale of 1-100, I'd rate my preliminary satisfaction at about 80-85%. Won't know for a few days when I can run it through a car wash and take it up to speed to check of wind noise, etc. I'd post pics, but there's really not much to discern from them. A windshield with painters tape is all you'd really make out. Will post any relevant and notable updates to my experience as the days pass.
1) The shop was rather rough removing the old by using some power tool that looked like a jackhammer with a spatula on the end between the glass and the body. This ended up cutting my drivers side a-pillar upholstery. I knew from reading that the recommendation was to completely remove the headliner and a-pillar covers during this removal/install, but the installer (claiming experience with these vehicles) didn't feel it necessary, so I put faith in his judgement. The new windshield appears to cover most of it up so you'd not notice it unless you were looking, but I saw it being done. Probably shouldn't have watched the process. Oh well, this is a 12 year old rig. If I have to reupholster the a-pillar at some point, looks easy enough.
2) With the old windshield removal, we were able to see what the previous install from PO was all about. It was somewhat sloppy with the urethane, but they did at least use rivets. However, no rain sensing tape, which could have contributed to my wonky wipers. Thin urethane near the passengers side could have been a leak producer, aided by the aftermarket XM antenna on the roofline.
3) New OEM windshield comes with mount for rear view mirror. Previous install by PO had apparently screwed up the mounting point on the mirror and installer had difficulty mounting the mirror to the new windshield. They fabricated something in their shop, they say, that worked around the issue. Haven't fussed with it yet to determine if it will be loose and cause problems.
4) As @thegreatgazoo stated, the mouldings/trim aren't seals. They just guide water and provide an aesthetically pleasing cover to the workings underneath. I was happy to discover this as well and feel better about the trims not being factory perfect. Hopefully when warmer weather hits they'll conform a bit more to the new install.
5) Interior of mine is ripped out whilst I repaired the speakers and covers all around, so I have no power window control. To prevent breaking the new seal, it was stated to leave at least one window open by 1 inch or so. I elected to open the sunroof to allow pressurized air to escape when doors are close. However, it was in the 20s last night so I had to close it all up, making sure to GENTLY close the door by pushing it to.
Total cost including OEM glass, rain sensing tape and some rubber trimmings (not the moulding that runs the height of the glass to the roofrack. Those were reused.) was $1,591.64. $280 of that was labor, the rest parts cost. On a scale of 1-100, I'd rate my preliminary satisfaction at about 80-85%. Won't know for a few days when I can run it through a car wash and take it up to speed to check of wind noise, etc. I'd post pics, but there's really not much to discern from them. A windshield with painters tape is all you'd really make out. Will post any relevant and notable updates to my experience as the days pass.
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I debated a lot whether to go with OEM glass. According to this article: Land Cruiser "windshield is 2mm thicker than standard Toyota". I had the budget for OEM glass but decided to go aftermarket because:
- OEM glass alone is about 3x the cost of aftermarket glass parts and labor altogether.
- When I bought it from the original owner, it had aftermarket windshiled already, so the OEM still needed replacement (I didn't ask what happened though). With the aftermarket glass, I drove it through all kinds of weather and washed it many times (touch and touch-less washes), no issue at all.
- Regardless of glass, there's the Safelite nationwide lifetime guarantee against defects noise and leaks, so nothing to worry about.
Some more updates. There turned out to be an area of distortion on passenger side on the Chinese glass. Fortunately the Saftelite shop at Boulder was great. Just a phone call and they agreed to replace it under warranty, and they'd also replace it with US-made PPG glass at NO additional charge (due to my concern that another Chinese glass would end up the same)! I'd recommend the Boulder Safelite shop to anyone in the area.
Even the OEM has some distortion to the far sides where the glass curves. My new OEM $1300 windshield is no different.
2001LC
SILVER Star
My last windshield I didn't have time to deal with. Just drop off at closest shop approved by Ins co, all after mkt stuff used. It is the most distorted windshield I've ever seen. Just getting in I instantly notice when looking to far side. It's ok, provided I only look forward while driving.
I get OEM next time for sure.
I get OEM next time for sure.
I didn't notice any distortion on the Pilkington glass that was replaced.
Will always be variances with this type of thing. The distortion on mine isn't anything out of the ordinary or distracting. The Pilkington glass it replaced was also fine, though cracked and the install was botched necessitating the OEM replacement. Glass manufacturing is by no means consistent. Like individuals, "no two are alike".
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Can you throw up a picture of the OEM distortion?
Thanks all. I will be scheduling with Saftelite.
Just wanted to post this for any and all Denver area friends who might search the forum down the road...
I HIGHLY recommend using Premium Auto Glass for windshield replacements, and they have a handful of locations around the metro area (Westminster, Centennial, Littleton, etc). I am still working with them to have another replacement windshield installed, but literally everyPremium Auto Glass employee I have spoken with over the last two weeks was well-aware of the notoriety of our 100 series windshields and their related rust/leak problems. I spoke over the phone with an employee from one location who knew of the issue, the techs and the manager of another location all knew of the issues, and when I called a third location to finally have the work done even the receptionistresponded with, "Oh boy, yup, those are notorious for issues" when I told her I had a 2000 LC.
As I have yet to actually have the work performed, I can't comment on the quality of work, warranty, etc. However; I am beyond comfortable leaving my vehicle with these guys at any one of their shops, not only due to their wealth of UZJ100 specific knowledge, but their top-notch customer service and transparency as well.
Premium Auto Glass - We Install Confidence
I HIGHLY recommend using Premium Auto Glass for windshield replacements, and they have a handful of locations around the metro area (Westminster, Centennial, Littleton, etc). I am still working with them to have another replacement windshield installed, but literally everyPremium Auto Glass employee I have spoken with over the last two weeks was well-aware of the notoriety of our 100 series windshields and their related rust/leak problems. I spoke over the phone with an employee from one location who knew of the issue, the techs and the manager of another location all knew of the issues, and when I called a third location to finally have the work done even the receptionistresponded with, "Oh boy, yup, those are notorious for issues" when I told her I had a 2000 LC.
As I have yet to actually have the work performed, I can't comment on the quality of work, warranty, etc. However; I am beyond comfortable leaving my vehicle with these guys at any one of their shops, not only due to their wealth of UZJ100 specific knowledge, but their top-notch customer service and transparency as well.
Premium Auto Glass - We Install Confidence
2001LC
SILVER Star
I'll take aftermarket if I must for the glass. But new side trim modeling and plastic coated aluminum rivets is a must. I've also been convinced smaller molding across top is better, larger holds in acids/moisture. It exposes leading edge of roof line to rock chip, but better then hidden rust.
I'll only go to shop that allows me into back, for two reasons:
1) To be second pair of eye's for; nicks in paint, rust that must be dealt with and have plugged any old holes not factory.
2) Second to insure side molding is installed properly. There's a procedure must be used. Basically place (don't set yet) all rivets in holes before pealing backing off tape. This insure proper alignment and reduce risk of nicking paint with metal reinforcement in molding. Every tech I've seen tapes first, it the reason they end up drilling, as holes often miss aligned.
A shop "Premier Glass" (out of business now) gave me glass with visible ripples and distortion in curve.
I'll only go to shop that allows me into back, for two reasons:
1) To be second pair of eye's for; nicks in paint, rust that must be dealt with and have plugged any old holes not factory.
2) Second to insure side molding is installed properly. There's a procedure must be used. Basically place (don't set yet) all rivets in holes before pealing backing off tape. This insure proper alignment and reduce risk of nicking paint with metal reinforcement in molding. Every tech I've seen tapes first, it the reason they end up drilling, as holes often miss aligned.
Did you see one?
I'd like to see picture as well, but even if so I'll bet you don't see ripples in glass.
A shop "Premier Glass" (out of business now) gave me glass with visible ripples and distortion in curve.
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I could use some wisdom on this. I'm trying to get my 06LX glass replaced. So far, I've talked to 4 different shops (Premium Auto, Tim Newcomb answered by somebody not Tim, Extreme Auto, local Lexus dealer) and nobody has offered up any indication they know about the 100 series. The gals answering the phone roll right into standard replacement pricing and I ask if their crew is familiar with that specific model and they say a pretty general, "yeah, we've done those, they're nothing special, same old". I've mentioned the plastic rivets and nobody has acknowledged that in any way. They all just say, we do things right and we apply rust barrier etc...
So for nobody has given me any reason to believe they'll do a job better than any other shop. Am I overly-pedantic about this or should i be calling and asking for the master tech on staff...? Some folks here seem to have talked to multiple shops that know of the uniqueness on these, but I'm really striking out on this so far.
So for nobody has given me any reason to believe they'll do a job better than any other shop. Am I overly-pedantic about this or should i be calling and asking for the master tech on staff...? Some folks here seem to have talked to multiple shops that know of the uniqueness on these, but I'm really striking out on this so far.
Did you ever get yours replaced? My windshield started leaking this past month. Water in passenger side after a hard rain and after a car wash. Pulled the a-pillar trim and confirmed two spots where water it coming between the sealant and windshield. Also confirmed the drains in good working order.
I am guessing I can't have insurance cover since the windshield isn't cracked.
I am still in the process. Just talked with insurance today and they agreed to OEM glass and trim, but some underlying corrosion and previous installer (hack) drill holes in the body will not be covered.
If your windshield leaks now, I'd check with the shop that installed it (unless it was prior to your ownership).
I'm learning first hand that who installs your windshield matters an awful lot in these cars. I would flat out refuse any repair that involves any kind of screw. Even if that means paying to trailer the car to a new shop. It's hard to screw it up using the correct rivets. It's nearly impossible to do it "right" in a way that isn't going to rot the A-pillar if screws are used. There's a reason the Toyota/Lexus design doesn't use any screws - unfortunately most installers will just use screws as provided in some aftermarket install kits.
Ah bummer. I was hoping you did all the hard work for me! HAHA. Agree it is all about the install from what I have been reading.
Original shop that did mine was a detail shop that farmed it out to who knows. It was when I first got my cruiser and didn't know the issues that could arise with the windshields. I don't think I would trust them now to fix it. Having said that, it has held up fine for the last 5 years.
