Recently took off my window frame from my 1985 BJ73 and thought I'd add to this thread while it was fresh in my mind.
1. Remove the rear view mirror.
2. At the top of window (inside), remove the two inside plastic corner pieces, the side-to-side upper trim piece, and the sun visors. By the way, a lot of screws and bolts will accumulate during all of this.
3. Now get ready for 10 mm and 12 mm bolts. Remove bolts along the upper and lower window sections where you see them. I removed a 10 mm bolt (x2) from the rear upper inside door frames as well but to be honest I'm not sure it did anything. It might have helped in step 9 below but I can't be sure. It was easy to do though, so off they came.
4. Move to the outside. If they're still there, carefully remove the plastic cover off the window frame hinges. The sun may have weakened the plastic so wiggle them off slowly. Fold the hinges down a bit.
5. Remove the windshield wipers. Pry the black plastic off carefully as it might crack with age.
6. If it's easy to do, you should remove the radio antenna which is probably in the way a bit. If you're reluctant to remove it, someone could pull the antenna out of the way when the time comes.
7. Apply masking tape across the inside and outside air vents and along the outside window frame and truck body. You might be surprised at how much rust falls out of the window when it is removed.
8. Above the window there is a side-to-side weatherstrip between the FRP top and the window frame. Ahead of time I ordered a replacement one from cruiserparts.net - they call it a "roof panel rain seal". To facilitate easier removal of the window frame I cut into the seal from side to side outside the truck.
9. Now the tricky part. Finally, there are two hidden 10 mm bolts on each side of the window frame. They're accessible from the inside, but someone is going to have to help you by applying upward pressure to the FRP top from the outside. We used two large screwdrivers. Since I had cut away the seal the screwdrivers easily lifted the top about 1" to 1.5" inches, which is all you need to get to the bolts. You might want to use a flat bar instead, which will create less direct pressure to the fibreglass than the screwdrivers did. No matter what you use, be careful not to lift the top too much. Only as much as you need to to get to the bolt heads. A ratcheting 10 mm wrench is helpful here.
10. The window is ready to be yanked out. Push firmly on the bottom corners first to loosen the rust. The outside hinges may be slightly in the way but you push past them with enough force. The top should pop out cleanly as the bottom gives way. If you hate the sight of rust you could vacuum up the loose bits before proceeding too far.
11. Once the window is out, look at the condition of the top seals on the old window frame. They may be reusable. If not, Cruiserparts.net sells them and calls them "roof side rail seals". Don't forget the three (x2) black plastic rivets.
12. My windows have chrome trim pieces on the rain gutter which are salvageable and will be reused on the new frame.
13. After cleaning the rust away, look at the condition of the main weight-bearing seal. Mine looks reusable. Peel back the corners a bit and inspecct the truck body for rust. If you're unlucky the truck will need some work before putting the new frame back in. I was lucky.
14. I didn't try to swap out the window glass myself. Too scared I'm going to crack the window. I took it to the pros to do.
15. Previously I struggled to think of where water was leaking into the frame but looking at the new frame I can see where it could weep inside from the outside. I sealed up the (~2 feet) top-to-bottom rain gutter which is comprised of ~10 spot welds (x2) but which has open slits between the welds. At the time of this writing I haven't received the window back from the glass shop but when I do I'm going to continue inspecting it for areas in which water could get inside and seal it up before putting it back into the truck in the reverse order of wheat was listed here.
16. Hopefully you ordered "hinge support packing" before reinstalling the new frame.