Window Switch Module repair (1 Viewer)

[APKhaos]

The driver's door window switch module had been giving me hell. Specifically, the driver's window switch was erratic at best, and often inoperative. Decided to take it to the bench and discovered that this was a very simple fix. Here's how:

WHICH MODEL? The switch I did was from my 1999 model, but I suspect the basic layout is consistent for later models and the failing mode is most likely consistent as well.

IS MINE BROKEN? The simple test is to compare the action of the lightly used switches on the driver's module [rear windows] with the most heavily used driver's window switch. The rear switches should have a tight, well-defined throw in both up and down direction. If your driver's window switch moves a lot further in either direction and feels 'soft', then it's a good candidate for this fix. ANY of the switches could fail this way, so if any of them feel extra bendy then this fix will work for that switch.

STEPS
- Remove the switch module from the door. Lever up the front edge first using a plastic trim lever or similar. Once the front spring clip pops, remove the module forward and up.
- Disconnect both connectors
- On the bench, remove the three screws attaching the module to the trim cover
- Turn the module over and remove the three screws from the connector side that hold the white electronics section to the black switch rocker section. Separate these two.



- Look carefully at the black plastic around the base of the driver's window rocker. You'll see a network of cracks in the plastic. Press down on the rocker and you'll see how the cracks allow the rocker base to move quite a bit. This is the problem.
- Carefully remove the driver's window rocker from the base by gently levering each side of the rocker out and over its pivot pin. BE CAREFUL! the underside of the rocker has a white plastic detent pin backed by a small spring. Take these out and set them aside. They WILL fall out, and loosing them on the floor will not be fun! Also remove the black rubber condom from the top of the rocker base.
- Clean the cracked area around the base top and bottom with a good flash solvent. Isopropyl alcohol is perfect.
- Scratch up the cracked area with light emery or sandpaper to provide a good tooth for the epoxy that comes next. Flush with solvent after sanding.
- Mix up a small [1/2" worms] of JB Quick. Carefully spread to cover the cracked area on one side. Mix a second batch for the other side. [JB Quick sets up too quickly to do both sides with one mix].
You can use slower curing JB Weld if you can allow 24 hours for it to cure.
- Ideally, let it cure for at least an hour and preferably overnight.
- While that's curing, carefully wipe the connector contacts with white vinegar on a q-tip to clear any corrosion. Flush with water on a q-tip
- When cured, reassemble the rocker on the base.
- Position the white switch levers [circled] in their center positions [marked on the pcb]
- Reassemble the rocker base and switch electronics module, then fit and screw down the trim plate.

At this point, you'll notice that the driver's window switch feels like new again. Drop it back in the driver's door and enjoy reliable window operation again!

 

[playdrv4me]

Interesting, the only switch on that panel I have that's a little erratic is actually the driver's rear window. Driver's window is fine.

 

[APKhaos]

If it feels more 'bendy' than the others, its likely that its the same problem. I thought it was more likely to be the drivers window because it got a lot more cycles, but having seen how the switch base plate cracks there is no reason why it wouldn't happen to any of them.

 

[playdrv4me]

If it feels more 'bendy' than the others, its likely that its the same problem. I thought it was more likely to be the drivers window because it got a lot more cycles, but having seen how the switch base plate cracks there is no reason why it wouldn't happen to any of them.

I'm actually not even sure what it feels like, because I haven't even had to use it yet, BUT earlier today or yesterday my brother was driving and he had to lower all the windows so me and the dog could have some air while he ran in for an quick errand. I noticed he had trouble with the driver's rear either going all the way up or all the way down and he had to fiddle with the switch a few times to get it to finally stop in the right position. I suspect it was bending like you said.

 

[lc1996]

Excellent writeup AKPhaos! My buddy's 2000 has similar issue and also sometimes when he rolls up the front PS window the DS window rolls up at the same time if DS window was in down position.

Carl

 

[102 Land Cruiser]

I have a 98 TLC the master switch lock is in/op. I can unlock from driver side but can't lock it, but on the passenger side I can lock and unlock. Any suggestion on the repair?

 

[APKhaos]

I have a 98 TLC the master switch lock is in/op. I can unlock from driver side but can't lock it, but on the passenger side I can lock and unlock. Any suggestion on the repair?

The door locking switches are on the master cluster but I haven't looked at the locking side of things. Focus here was to solve the window switch problem.

 

[hankinid]

I'm actually not even sure what it feels like, because I haven't even had to use it yet, BUT earlier today or yesterday my brother was driving and he had to lower all the windows so me and the dog could have some air while he ran in for an quick errand. I noticed he had trouble with the driver's rear either going all the way up or all the way down and he had to fiddle with the switch a few times to get it to finally stop in the right position. I suspect it was bending like you said.

If the window hit the upper limit of travel and then reversed without driver input, check what's called "pinch adjustment" in the FSM.

Steve

 

[102 Land Cruiser]

The door locking switches are on the master cluster but I haven't looked at the locking side of things. Focus here was to solve the window switch problem.

How would I go about to find this master cluster? I went ahead and opened up the master switch and swap switch but the lock is still in/op.

 

[CEO714]

I took my 2000 lx470 master switch apart and it did not look like this so I put it back together lol this is what mine looks like disassembled.


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[kevin2i]

Mine is still working, 8 months later. Not quite as smooth as the stock switch, but $300 cheaper
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Po...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d151b85d&vxp=mtr

 

[CEO714]

I do not think that will work with mine I have auto up and auto down on all 4 switches ;(


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[CEO714]

I think the bigger question is do I NEED auto up and down on all 4 windows lol majorly answer yes only for the fact that my wood trim indicates ALL AUTO! LoL wouldn't want to anger the gods at Toyota with something only 1/4 about to do what advertised! Lol


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[CEO714]

I was browsing around and its nice to see AUTOZONE is a option for my Master switch ... It only cost $750! But But But it comes with a LIFE TIME WARRANTY!... No!
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa..._/N-jedtlZ9cilb?itemIdentifier=535932_2137_0_

 

[CEO714]

My master window driver switch broke off sigh I was a little too rough with it. Any cheep fix for this?


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[APKhaos]

My master window driver switch broke off sigh I was a little too rough with it. Any cheep fix for this? View attachment 870457

Its dead Jim.

No way to repair that with anything like the mechanical strength of the original material. Time for a replacement module.

I think the bigger question is do I NEED auto up and down on all 4 windows lol majorly answer yes only for the fact that my wood trim indicates ALL AUTO! LoL wouldn't want to anger the gods at Toyota with something only 1/4 about to do what advertised! Lol

First confirm that your connector and harness are compatible with the single auto switch module. I suspect its not, but that's just an opinion based on an assumption that the all auto operation requires more lines from the switch to the controller. Even if this is not the case, your newer controller may not play nicely with the older switch module.

 

[CEO714]

Yeah I was trying to be careful but the switch broke ;( I saved the spring and the white plastic thing. So now I need a new black plastic switch ;(


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[CEO714]

Well I looked at the switch again I might be able to use some epoxy or something here is what I talking about.


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[CEO714]

Well I super glued it I will let it dry over night see how that works lol.


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[APKhaos]

LX MASTER WINDOW SWITCH MODULE



CEO714 sent me his broken switch module which is from his 2000 LX. Not sure which LX models had this switch module type, or if any LC models had it. Its auto ops for all four windows, and the module is narrower than the one in my 99 LC.



The internal design of this model is much improved over the LC module in my original post in this thread. The rockers drive a mechanical switch in the LC module. In this LX module there are small ferrite buttons embedded in a silicone rubber pad that actuate hall effect switches on the circuit board. Very neat. These switches do have a weak point, but its not the cracking of the plastic switch molding. That's much beefier than the LC module and should last forever.
The LX problem is the small white plastic actuator that is located under the rocker switch cover. This little guy can break, and when it does the switch no longer works.



On the right is the complete pin I took from a good switch in this module.
On the left is the broken pin from the failed switch. The two legs and the crossbar at the top are broken off. This appears to be how these switches fail. Its not repairable.

The options are:
- A new switch module or a used switch module from a breaker like CruiserParts
- Replace the failed pin and hood with one taken from another switch in the module like drivers side rear door position and move the broken switch to that position. It will not work, but at least the drivers window switch will now work.