I can't be of much help here as your year truck shows no description. I have no personal experience measuring the thickness of my Jan '72 truck windows. As noted, the "T" in the description column stands for thickness in millimeters. Four millimeters is close to 5/32's of an inch, or just under 3/16's.
Window Seals
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FloridaLife
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Thanks for checking.
Out of curiosity I just mic'd my drivers side glass at 205 thousands or 5.2 millimeters
Living in the Past
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On the corner glass 7/71+ it shows this on the part break down it shows this. TP.T=5.0 which I believe the this is for 5MM. That breaks down to close to 3/16". If the glass your measuring is has any symbols like these it mostly OEM.
Corner glass it probably all be OEM. Flat glass could be cut from a sheet. Round glass would need to be moulded that way.
At another location I have a loose right rear corner glass from a 9/67 built 68 model. Any other pre 7/71 glass is in a top with weatherstripping. Not taking it out just to measure. I have later glass that is loose with it's weatherstripping.
Corner glass it probably all be OEM. Flat glass could be cut from a sheet. Round glass would need to be moulded that way.
At another location I have a loose right rear corner glass from a 9/67 built 68 model. Any other pre 7/71 glass is in a top with weatherstripping. Not taking it out just to measure. I have later glass that is loose with it's weatherstripping.
I was out measuring my valve cover seals so I put the calipers on my rear ambulance door glass and have the same 205 thousandths
FloridaLife
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For anyone else that has one made in the same period as mine, when you need to order new window seals my / your glass is 3/16" thick, including the curved rear corners and the lift gate and side glass. I also measured the length + width x 2 to get the length for each, according to the "Mike Restores an FJ40" YouTube channel when he replaced them on a 1971 like mine, I came up with 33 1/2 feet of material. I had to order a 30' roll and another smaller roll. Here is a direct link to what you will need. Hope this helps someone else out in the future:
And a local glass shop refused to use the 1 piece Trim-Loc. They would ONLY use the original type 2 piece like this, but I'm going to save myself $375 ($75 per glass) + tax and do it myself. I took it all out, so I should be able to put it all back in.
@FloridaLife i wish you luck and if you get it..document the plan…I could use it
I watched Mike’s video 1/2 a dozen times. Bought the tool, made a tool, bought the rope thing…..nothing !!! I said the same thing…I took it out, I can put it back in…. It’s 3 weeks and it’s still on the table. Something is just not clicking in my head and when it eventually does…it’ll be one of those light bulb moments.., I may get a piece of lexan to cut a tad smaller until I get a glass guy to replace both door window seals. Cooler weather is on the way and I am looking forward to that for a really nice ride.
I watched Mike’s video 1/2 a dozen times. Bought the tool, made a tool, bought the rope thing…..nothing !!! I said the same thing…I took it out, I can put it back in…. It’s 3 weeks and it’s still on the table. Something is just not clicking in my head and when it eventually does…it’ll be one of those light bulb moments.., I may get a piece of lexan to cut a tad smaller until I get a glass guy to replace both door window seals. Cooler weather is on the way and I am looking forward to that for a really nice ride.
FloridaLife
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@FloridaLife i wish you luck and if you get it..document the plan…I could use it
View attachment 3713983
I would think cooler weather would make it, the rubber, stiffer to work with. Tools on Amazon for $11 or $16, and when I watched the trim lock video which I think I posted earlier they made it look really quick and easy for that tool. I would also encourage you to spray plenty of soapy water or silicone lubricant like a WD-40 silicone to help with that. For myself, I was going to use the trim lock like Mike did in his videos, but after the local glass shop talking to me and several people here in the forum saying go with the original type, I'm going to put the rubber seals in, press the glass into place, and then put that separate rubber locking piece in and press it into place and be done with it. It. It's way easier. I figure if it was good enough for the last 53 years, then it would be good enough going forward.
One other side note... The local glass shop said that if they put it in with the separate rubber locking lace or thread like the original, then when they're almost done they use a little bit of polyurethane and no one can ever notice that there is a seam there and that it's not all one piece. Now, I don't know if they're just putting the polyurethane where the two pieces butt up to each other, or if they're putting it all along the exterior, but he guaranteed that it would last and that I wouldn't be able to tell where the seam was. So, I may have to experiment with a couple of scrap pieces and a little bit of polyurethane. Just thought I'd throw that tip out there.
Living in the Past
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@FloridaLife i wish you luck and if you get it..document the plan…I could use it
View attachment 3713983
Ambulance door glass will have the one piece weatherstripping. The earlier glass with the locking strip allows for flexibility with new weatherstripping that isn't dried out and brittle.
Thanks skreddy
@Living in the Past sould you know if the roll weatherstrip seal would work on the ambulance door? It just APPEARS that the new piece of 1 piece rubber exceeds the inner perimeter dimensions….or in a more practical description: that glass is way too big
FloridaLife
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Yep, that's the exact same thing I ordered yesterday, also a 30 foot roll and a 10 foot roll. A 30 foot and a 5 foot would work too, but I decided I'd rather have a little extra just in case.
FloridaLife
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- #53
I bet it would work. They use the exact same thing on boats, RV's, and anything with flat glass. The reason why a lot of people like the 1 piece formed seals is because over the years with heat and cold they don't have to worry about the seal shrinking and leaving a gap. But, if you cut it a little long and push & stuff as much into there as you can, then even if it shrinks a little you shouldn't have a gap. And the local glass guy said he puts a little polyurethane on them to prevent them from shrinking and separating. Today I also had the idea of using a little dab or rubber cement on the ends that butt up to each other. If the new seals last 53 years like the originals did, I'll be long dead and gone before having to deal with it again.
I say go for it. It's cheap enough on Amazon to be worth giving it a try. And remember, my local glass shop said they would not even try to install the 1 piece, only the 2 piece, so it is bound to be way faster and easier.
In the frustration , I decided to spend the big bucks and try the OEM rubber 1 piece window seal. It arrived tonight and is SUBSTANTIALLY more rubbery and pliable than the aftermarket ones I had purchased last year… almost as soft as silicone. It’s at least telling me I could have a better chance of getting it to flex around the window seat
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FloridaLife
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That sounds promising!
I will surely let you know…hopefully this weekend
