Wilwood Brake Conversion

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Proportioning valve is what it is called and you will need to install it on the rear system to dial down the pressure or more than likely the rear wheels will lock first causing the vehicle to slide. Try the search function for residual valve threads - lostmarbles has some good pictures and discussions on the subject
 
I've heard the welded rims with the hub caps don't fit as well as the welded rims without the caps. I guess they are different sizes.
 
Hey Rocky, here's what my proportioning valve looks like, I got it from @Racer65

full
 
Welcome Rocky, Nice Cruiser ... I have a 69 911 that looks a lot like yours excepting I have the ducktail spoiler on ... it is going through a "resto upgrade" right now
 
Man those are sexy brakes!
 
If you're able to source the parts, you can save a few bucks using stock 4 piston front callipers, and poser rear brackets. I didn't have any trouble finding the parts to do it myself, and with an 80 master and booster, it stops incredibly well with almost no effort. Once I've got power steering, you're grandma could drive it... :D


Btw, I've got a Wilwood proportioning valve that I've been using almost like that one. Nice thing about Racers is that you don't need adapters.
 
Hi Jetmutant... Thank you and I feel welcomed here at IH8MUD and everyone has been helpful.
Can you send me pictures of your 911 when you get a chance? Love to see it.
 
I've heard the welded rims with the hub caps don't fit as well as the welded rims without the caps. I guess they are different sizes.
Hi Frank..
Thats a bummer because I like the Hub Caps... They look cool...
I have longer 2.3 inch wheel studs on order and, I found 5/16 wheel spacers here locally in Phoenix.
hopefully I won't have any other issues, and she'll be ready for a beer run!!!!!:beer:
 
'Locally in Phoenix'

I've driven my 40 around Phoenix... It's amazing how differently people drive around a 25 year old, desert Cammo inspired, lifted bush 40... I'd imagine people would still be a bit afraid of it in their new economy cars. It's now 41 btw.
 
@Frank Traverse

I have never heard that ... Most every one that doesn't have clips are the split rim versions or from a mini truck (15 inches) I think... And they (split rims) are mostly 16" and all would fit

Riveted rims in 15" will not work ... They have clips... You may be thinking of them?

I just checked my rims and they are identical to your... Identically stamped ... But... Are actually 9/74 rims (shows how much I remember lol)

I run disc brake fronts and they clear no problems

I run GM rear calipers and they clear no problems w/the correct rotors

Originally when I changed over the rears I had to run a spacer ... Problem being the mounting area of the rotor to axle

A thin mounting area on the rotor it will need a spacer... The rotors I have now (actually the third set as I have been running rear disc for MANY years) the rotors have a thicker steel that mounts on the axle... Hence spacing the rim just that bit further away

How thick is the metal on the rotor that goes on the axle? Is it kinda thin?

I BTW have not heard of any welded rims not work on the fronts ... Ever... The difference is you have a wilwood kit and every else runs oem tlc or mini truck fronts
 
I've heard the welded rims with the hub caps don't fit as well as the welded rims without the caps. I guess they are different sizes.
Hi Frank..
Thats a bummer because I like the Hub Caps... They look cool...
I have longer 2.3 inch wheel studs on order and, I found 5/16 wheel spacers here locally in Phoenix.
hopefully I won't have any other issues, and she'll be ready for a beer run!!!!!:beer:
 
JohnnyC..... Well I'm glad I purchased the correct wheels. The FJ came originally with riveted wheels but I found a used set of welded wheels online, knowing that I was planning to upgrade the brakes some day. I was a little worried I bought the wrong ones. thanks for confirming that I had the right ones.
I think the rotor is a little thicker where it mounts to the axle and hub than the stock drums and now the caliper is upper close to the rotors.
I have attached a few pictures why I think the wheel is hitting the Caliper... The Caliper is an 1/8" from the rotor and sticks out past the rotor face by 3/8".
So I'm hoping the longer wheel studs and the 5/16" spacer will solve my problem. The only draw back I can see is the tires will stick out almost a 1/2" further. I'm hoping it's something I can live with.

Thanks for the help ...


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Spacers should do the trick, I've been running 1/4" spacers for 22 years in the front and 17 in the rear with no problems. FYI, I found studs that were longer to use for my rear conversion from a mid 90s Land cruiser. I'm not sure which year as I brought in a Chevy stud that was the right size from the donor truck and the parts guy at Toyota brought back 12 Landcruiser studs that were almost the same... Just the correct thread. It was about 17 years ago, so I'd start looking around 95.
 
The ones I bought from Summit Racing, the guy said they were for a Ford.
Everything was correct except the threads.. I had to buy all new lug nuts.
Will see how they work when they come in tomorrow.
 
JohnnyC, it was just something I read on JT Outfitters websight when researching my disc conversion. I have the welded rims on my '69 with the GM calipers on the front, still drum in the back. The calipers cleared but I had to add spacers to clear the power steering shaft hitting the inside of the rim.
 

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