Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High Clearance Lower Control Arms

[ShottsUZJ100]

That might actually not be a problem. My old 80 arms were custom made to be (IIRC) 0.5" longer than stock, in order to properly locate the wheel in the well after lifting. As you know, as you lift the truck, the wheel effectively moves forward due to the angle of the arms (sort of like the axle also moves sideways due to the Panhard rod as you lift). So this may be designed purposely in order to put the tire back where it was pre-lift, in terms of wheelbase at least.

Or it could be mistake, I guess... Let us know what WWOR says.

edit: Also helps keep the diff flange properly lined up with the t-case output flange.

I thought of that and actually wondered why aftermarket arms aren't a tad longer.....then I thought about my truck...........

Won't work on mine. I already rub the Slee bumper at full compression. Another inch would cause crap. I don't have any more room rearward for the tire.

I'm vibration free. Changing the angle via longer lower arms without also changing upper arms to correct might bring in vibration.

 

[Morty]

Yea, x2 please let us know what you find out. I've been waiting to order a set of these until you installed yours and could give some feedback.

 

[dclee]

I'm vibration free. Changing the angle via longer lower arms without also changing upper arms to correct might bring in vibration.

You are now, but I'm willing to bet that you're at the upper limit of tolerance for the U-joints. You can't defy the laws of physics...

You may not have vibrations now, but I wouldn't be surprised if you're wearing your U-joints, and the vibes will develop in time.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

You are now, but I'm willing to bet that you're at the upper limit of tolerance for the U-joints. You can't defy the laws of physics...

You may not have vibrations now, but I wouldn't be surprised if you're wearing your U-joints, and the vibes will develop in time.

Better to replace U-joints every 150K than have a suspension setup that stops you in your tracks from rubbing every time you articulate.

 

[spressomon]

Better to replace U-joints every 150K than have a suspension setup that stops you in your tracks from rubbing every time you articulate.

John: I wonder why you have tire rub on your Slee bumper? I only rubbed on the inner fender wall at max articulation...not the bumper itself. What would be so different between our two rigs to cause your rubbing?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

John: I wonder why you have tire rub on your Slee bumper? I only rubbed on the inner fender wall at max articulation...not the bumper itself. What would be so different between our two rigs to cause your rubbing?

I've not seen pics of yours articulating. All I can say is that mine is increcible.

It's rubbing right here though not quote enough to halt progress. Another half inch would kill me, let alone another 7/8".

 

[spressomon]

I've not seen pics of yours articulating. All I can say is that mine is increcible.

It's rubbing right here though not quote enough to halt progress. Another half inch would kill me, let alone another 7/8".

It's still strange...same frame/body, same size tires, same rear bumper, same lift, same shocks (you have the 74L which are longer...but you have upside +2" bump stops I don't have...), stock upper and lower control arms (then). I am comparing when I had the OME set-up installed...

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Get profile shots of the side wings of the bumpers and how are they're sticking into each of yours' wheel wells. Could just be difference in manufacture of bumpers.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

but you have upside +2" bump stops I don't have.

I know in "measurement terms" the bumpstops should reduce 2" of up-travel. Reality is (from all our observations) that once the stop hits the axle, the axle then seems to rotate even more on that bumpstop. It takes on a teeter-totter effect and that tire just turns in angle-wise big time while the axle doens't move up any more. I think it's because of the added droop on the other side. It's hard to explain but the setup works and adds a lot.

The axle is also VERY crooked when flexed in that pic. The stuffed wheel is far rearward and the drooped far forward. I guarantee you that IF I had a shorter shock on the drooped side and the long ones on the stuffed side, I'd not rub. Of course you can't use that setup.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I know in "measurement terms" the bumpstops should reduce 2" of up-travel. Reality is (from all our observations) that once the stop hits the axle, the axle then seems to rotate even more on that bumpstop. It takes on a teeter-totter effect and that tire just turns in angle-wise big time while the axle doens't move up any more. I think it's because of the added droop on the other side. It's hard to explain but the setup works and adds a lot.

The axle is also VERY crooked when flexed in that pic. The stuffed wheel is far rearward and the drooped far forward. I guarantee you that IF I had a shorter shock on the drooped side and the long ones on the stuffed side, I'd not rub. Of course you can't use that setup.

Check out the turn-in on the rear axle:

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Just spoke to Tim from WWOR. He's already got modified arms completed and going to paint tomorrow and we hadn't even spoke yet! Talk about service! He made the decision based on my posts! I should have them within a week. I'll re-post when complete.

Tim's going to be able to make either length....stock or stock plus ~7/8th. This way he'll have stock-length arms so to work with any lift kit without increasing rubbing. Then the longer arms that correct for pinion angle and will work for other appllications where rubbing is not an issue (ie...lift height vs bumper type vs shock length vs tire size, etc).

 

[spressomon]

Just spoke to Tim from WWOR. He's already got modified arms completed and going to paint tomorrow and we hadn't even spoke yet! Talk about service! He made the decision based on my posts! I should have them within a week. I'll re-post when complete.

Tim's going to be able to make either length....stock or stock plus ~7/8th. This way he'll have stock-length arms so to work with any lift kit without increasing rubbing. Then the longer arms that correct for pinion angle and will work for other appllications where rubbing is not an issue (ie...lift height vs bumper type vs shock length vs tire size, etc).

The other option for adjusting the pinion angle back down would be to utilize shorter/adjustable upper rear control arms. Then you can stay with the stock length lower control arms.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

The other option for adjusting the pinion angle back down would be to utilize shorter/adjustable upper rear control arms. Then you can stay with the stock length lower control arms.

Exactly, which is why he's going to make stock-length arms as well. By adjusting pinion angle via adjustable upper arms you don't add in the rubbing factor longer lowers can cause.

 

[Tom B]

I know in "measurement terms" the bumpstops should reduce 2" of up-travel. Reality is (from all our observations) that once the stop hits the axle, the axle then seems to rotate even more on that bumpstop. It takes on a teeter-totter effect and that tire just turns in angle-wise big time while the axle doens't move up any more. I think it's because of the added droop on the other side. It's hard to explain but the setup works and adds a lot.

I rub my Slee bumper with 863's, non-L shocks, and 2" extended bump stops. It happens quite frequently without the rear swaybar on, less with it on. In addition, 35's (BFG AT's, no wheel spacers) don't really fit in the front without lowering the bump stops or adding a BL. Ask my front fender!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I rub my Slee bumper with 863's, non-L shocks, and 2" extended bump stops. It happens quite frequently without the rear swaybar on, less with it on. In addition, 35's (BFG AT's, no wheel spacers) don't really fit in the front without lowering the bump stops or adding a BL. Ask my front fender!

Interesting. I'm am 100% glad now that I didn't try the longer arms.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Arms are on. Sweet! Info coming in a couple of days!

 

[NMuzj100]

On a slightly different topic, what are people doing about protecting the arm mounts and how strong are the Toyota mounts? Slee recommended not welding on a slider plate, but mine are starting to look pretty mashed up.

Something like this looks pretty good.

How's your French ?

http://www.egal16.com/accessoires

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Something like this looks pretty good.

How's your French ?

http://www.egal16.com/accessoires

That protects though it reduces ground clearance which is the main issue in the first place. The low slung arms are the weak spot on the 80/100 series. A true solution addresses both issues. WWWOR arms solve both troubles.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I CAN SEE WHY ZARTMAN GAVE THE REVIEW HE GAVE! Dear Lord.....why has nobody made arms like these until now?

The 80 and 100 series super weak spot wheeling-wise are these frickin' arms. They are long, hang down and catch everything. When they catch you stop, or you hop, or you bend, or you get strapped.

Aftermarket arms don't address this. Sure, they are stronger but you still hang. HOW IN THE HELL HAVE 80-WHEELERS LIVED WITHOUT ARMS LIKE THESE WWOR ALL THESE YEARS? NUTS!

Pic one....the cooler is your rock/ledge. You are stopped in your tracks.
Pic two....the cooler is your rock/ledge. Your tire simply climbs up. The difference in clearance is amazing!

This pic allows you to visually see the gained clearance over a straight arm. It also shows the new 2nd Gen skid on the bottom front of the bar which adds more strength (Zartman's didn't have these). WOW!

Lastly....Those arms are tucked out of the way and for good. Add in the super strong steel over stock....cool! Looking at the 100, the rear drive shaft looks like it's still higher above ground compared to the arms. That's good as well.

Last pic shows you the change. Before in the rough stuff you had to place your vehicle so these would clear:

L arm
R arm
Driveshaft

Now....position your vehicle to clear the rear shaft and that's it!

TIM LUND HAS A WINNER HERE! THIS IS A MUST FOR ANY SERIOUS 80 OR 100 SERIES FOUR-WHEELER. THE PICS DON'T LIE! WHERE OH WHERE HAVE THESE BEEN? The 80's have been out for 17-years!

By the way...the install was easy. Drilled out the frame holes to 80-size and slapped on 80 hardware....done.

 

[-Spike-]

Good deal John, thanks for the write-up. The arms definitely make a big difference, and I'd be ordering the stock length arms myself since I already have adjustable uppers. Thanks for working out that 'bug'.

-Spike